Page 49 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2017 - Boston
P. 49

BEA C ON  HILL  AND   WEST  END      47

                                               6 Beacon Street
        Oliver Wendell Holmes and the Boston Brahmins
                                               Map 1 B4.  Park Street.
        In 1860, Oliver Wendell Holmes (see p32) wrote that Boston’s
        wealthy merchant class of the time constituted a Brahmin caste,    Beacon Street is lined with
        a “harmless, inoffensive, untitled aristo cracy” with “their houses    urban mansions facing Boston
        by Bulfinch, their monopoly on Beacon Street,   Common. The 1808 William
        their ancestral portraits and Chinese por-  Hickling Prescott House at
        celains, humanitarianism, Unitarian faith    No. 55, designed by Asher
        in the march of the mind, Yankee       Benjamin, offers tours of rooms
        shrewdness, and New England            decorated in Federal, Victorian,
        exclusiveness.” So keenly did he skewer   and Colonial Revival styles.
        the social class that the term has     The American Meteorological
        persisted. In casual usage today, a    Society occupies No. 45, which
        Brahmin is someone with an old family   was built as Harrison Gray Otis’s
        name, whose finances derive largely    last and finest house, with
        from trust funds, and whose politics   11 bedrooms and an elliptical
        blend conservatism with noblesse oblige   room behind the front parlor
        toward those less fortunate. Boston’s   where the walls and doors are
        Brahmins founded most of the hospitals,   curved. The elite Somerset
        performing arts bodies and museums of   Oliver Wendell Holmes   Club stands at Nos. 42–43
        the greater metropolitan area.  (1809–94)  Beacon Street. In the 1920s to
                                               1940s, Irish Catholic mayor
                                               James Michael Curley would
                           hospitable, Nichols was, among   lead election night victory
                           other things, a self-styled land-  marches to the State House,
                           scape designer who traveled   pausing at the Somerset to
                           extensively around the world    taunt the Boston Brahmins
                           to write about gardens.  within. The Parkman House
                                               at No. 33 is now a city-owned
                           5 Hepzibah Swan     meeting center. It was the
                                               home of Dr. George Parkman,
                           Houses              who was murdered by Harvard
                                               professor and fellow socialite
                           13, 15 & 17 Chestnut St. Map 1 B4.
                            Park Street. Closed to the public.  Dr. John Webster in 1849.
       Drawing room of the Bulfinch-designed   Boston society was torn apart
       Nichols House Museum  The only woman who was    when Webster was sentenced
                           ever a member of the Mount   to be hanged.
       4 Nichols House     Vernon Proprietors (see p46),
       Museum              Mrs. Swan had these houses   P William Hickling Prescott House
                           built by Bulfinch as wedding   Open May–Sep: noon–4pm Wed &
       55 Mount Vernon St. Map 1 B4.    presents for her daughters    Sat. & ^ 8
       Tel (617) 227-6993.  Park Street.   in 1806, 1807 and 1814.
       Open Apr–Oct: 11am–4pm Tue–Sat;   Some of the most
       Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Thu–Sat. & ^
       8 ∑ nicholshousemuseum.org  elegant and distin-
                           guished houses on
       The Nichols House Museum   Chestnut Street, they
       was designed by Charles   are backed by Bulfinch-
       Bulfinch in 1804 and offers a   designed stables that
       rare glimpse into the tradi tion-  face onto Mount
       bound lifestyle of Beacon Hill.   Vernon Street. The
       Modernized in 1830 by the   deeds restrict the
       addition of a Greek Revival   height of the stables
       portico, the house is never-  to 13 ft (4 m) so that
       theless a superb example of   her daughters would
       Bulfinch’s domestic architec-  still have a view over
       ture. It also offers an insight    Mount Vernon Street.
       into the life of a true Beacon    In 1863–65, No. 13
       Hill character. Rose Standish   was home to Dr.
       Nichols moved into the house   Samuel Gridley Howe,
       aged 13 when her father pur-  abolitionist and edu-
       chased it in 1885. She left it as    cational pioneer who,
       a museum in her will in 1960.    in 1833, founded the
       A woman ahead of her time,   first school for the   Elegant Federal-style houses on Beacon
       strong-willed and famously   blind in the U.S.  Street, overlooking Boston Common




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