Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
IRELAND REGION B Y REGION  185
THE LOWER SHANNON
Clare • Limerick • Tipperary
In the three counties which flank the lower reaches of the
Shannon, Ireland’s longest river, the scenery ranges from the
rolling farm land of Tipperary to the eerie limestone plateau
of the Burren. The Shannon’s bustling riverside resorts draw Ireland Region by Region
many visitors, and there are medieval strongholds and Introduction The
atmospheric towns of great historic interest. The region
also boasts a vibrant music scene. 1landscape, history and
The River Shannon has long made this Ormonde, who held much land in Apart from Dublin, Ireland has
area an attractive prospect for settlers. Tipperary, and the Fitzgeralds, the main character of each region
There are several important Stone Age land owners in the Limerick area. From the
sites, including a major settlement by Middle Ages, Limerick was often at the been divided into seven regions,
Lough Gur. From the 5th century, the centre of events in the Lower Shannon. In is described here,
region lay at the heart of Munster, one of 1691, the army of William of Orange laid
Ireland’s four Celtic provinces. The Rock of siege to the town, heralding the Treaty of each of which has a separate
Cashel, a remarkable fortified abbey in Limerick that triggered the Catholic showing how the area
county Tipperary, was the seat of the Kings nobility’s departure for Europe – the
of Munster for more than 700 years. so-called “Flight of the Wild Geese”. chapter. The most interesting
The Vikings penetrated the Shannon in Lush grassland, which has turned the has developed over the
the 10th century, but Gaelic clans put up Lower Shannon into prime dairy coun try,
stern resistance. During the Norman is typical of the region. In places this gives
period, the chieftains of these clans built way to picturesque glens and mountains, centuries and what it towns and places to visit in each
Bunratty Castle and other fortresses that such as the Galty range in southern
were impressive enough to rival the Tipperary. The region’s most dramatic offers to the visitor today.
strongholds erected by the Anglo-Irish scenery, however, is found along the coast area have been numbered on
dynasties. Foremost among the latter of Clare, a county otherwise best known
families were the Butlers, the Earls of for its thriving traditional music scene.
a Regional Map.
186  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION THE L OWER SHANNON  187 Each region of Ireland can be
Exploring the Lower Shannon quickly identified by its colour
The central location of Limerick city makes it a natural focus for
visitors to the region. However, there are many charming towns coding, shown on the inside
that make pleasanter bases, such as Adare, Cashel and also
Killaloe, which is well placed for exploring the River Shannon.
Most places of interest in Tipperary lie in the southern part of front cover.
the county, where historic towns such as Clonmel and Cahir
overlook the River Suir. County Clare’s small villages are full of
Ruins of Dysert O’Dea monastery in County Clare with an outstanding 12th-century High Cross
character and some, such as Doolin, are renowned for
traditional music. The county is also home to Bunratty Castle
Abbey Street in the charming town of Ennis, County Clare Boats sailing on Lough Derg near Mountshannon
and the Burren.
Galway Banagher Key
Galway Motorway
Sights at a Glance Murroogh Burren Shannon Birr Motorway under construction
Black Head
1 The Burren pp190–92 Ballyvaughan Tullamore Major road Regional Map This shows
2 Cliffs of Moher Aillwee Cave Portumna Secondary road
3 Kilrush Lisdoonvarna Carrigahorig Minor road
4 Glin Doolin THE BURREN Borrisokane Shinrone Scenic route
5 Foynes CLIFFS OF Mullaghmore Maghera 399m Coolbaun Borris in Major railway 2the road network and gives
6 River Shannon MOHER Kilfenora Whitegate ROSCREA Ossory
7 Dysert O’Dea Ennistymon Corofin Crusheen Scarriff Minor railway
8 Ennis Liscannor DYSERT O'DEA CLARE Lough MOUNTSHANNON Portlaoise County border an illustrated overview of the
Bay
Nenagh
9 Knappogue Castle Milltown Inagh CRAGGAUNOWEN Derg Moneygall Summit
0 Craggaunowen Malbay ENNIS KILLALOE
q Mountshannon Mutton Clare Abbey Dolla Templemore
w Killaloe Island Quilty KNAPPOGUE CASTLE Birdhill Johnstown Portlaoise whole region. All interesting
e Bunratty Castle & Folk Park BUNRATTY CASTLE Slievekimalta
pp196–7 Creegh Silver Mine Mountains Borrisoleigh
693m
r Limerick Kilkee Doonbeg Knockalough Shannon Milestone Thurles Urlingford
t Adare Killadysert RIVER SHANN ON LIMERICK Slievefelim Mountains places to visit are numbered
y Lough Gur Carrigaholt KILRUSH Killimer Mulke ar Pallas HOLY CROSS ABBEY
u Roscrea Scattery Island Labasheeda Askeaton M aigue Mungret TIPPERAR Y
i Holy Cross Abbey Tarbert FOYNES Ballyneety Green Dundrum Killenaule Callan Kilkenny and there are also useful tips
o Cashel pp199–201 Loop Head Kilbaha GLIN Rathkeale ADARE
p Athassel Priory LIMERIC K LOUGH GUR Golden CASHEL
a Glen of Aherlow Tralee Athea Bruff Tipperary ATHASSEL Fethard Ninemile
s Chair Newcastle Ballingarry Bansha PRIORY house on getting around the region
GLEN OF
d Clonmel West Deel Bruree Knocklong AHERLOW Slievenamon Ahenny
719m
f Carrick-on-Suir Feale Killmallock Galbally CLONMEL
Abbeyfeale Rath Luirc Galtymore Mountain CAHIR
Kilkinlea Galty Mountains Kilcommon Waterford by car and train.
920m
Mullaghareirk Dromcolliher CARRICK-
ON-SUIR
Killarney Brosna Mountains Clogheen Suir
Rockchapel Mitchelstown Ballymacarbry
Mount Melleray
Cork 793m
Getting Around Cork
Roads extend from Limerick into every corner of the
region, providing good access for motorists; the car ferry
from Tarbert in Kerry to Killimer, near Kilrush in Clare, is a
convenient route across the Shannon. Trains from
Limerick serve Cahir, Clonmel and Carrick, but in other
areas you must rely on the bus network. This is rather 0 kilometres 20
limited, especially in County Clare, although buses to the 0 miles 20
Burren from Limerick pass the Cliffs of Moher. Some of
Looking up at the Cliffs of Moher the most popular sights, such as Bunratty Castle and the Painted pub sign in Cashel
Burren, can be reached on bus tours from Limerick.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–303 and pp308–25 For additional map symbols see back flap
198  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION THE L OWER SHANNON  199
and Chantry Chapel, two o Cashel
evocative 12th-century ruins. Road map C5. Co Tipperary.
Getting Around gives tips on The grace ful 15th-century * 11,400. @ n Heritage Centre,
Franciscan Friary, however, is
Town Hall, Main St (062 62511).
surround ed by the golf course,
∑ cashel.ie
travel within the region. though it can be seen clearly The great attraction of the town
from the pathway.
is the magnificent medieval
In the heart of the village is
the elegant Dunraven Arms Rock of Cashel (see pp200–201).
Hotel (see p299) from where the A private path leads to the rock
local hunt rides to hounds. from Cashel Palace Hotel (see
Some of the nearby cottages, p299), an opulent Queen Anne
originally built by the Earl of residence that was once the
Dunraven in 1828 for his Façade of Cashel Palace Hotel Bishop’s Palace. Nearby, the
remnant of a 12th-century
estate workers, have been
Detailed Information All Typical thatched cottage in the village of Adare over-restored by the first Earl of converted into pleasant cafés foundations. The interpretive i Holy Cross Abbey castle has been turned into
centre, which is housed in mock
Kearney Castle Hotel. In the
and restaurants.
t Adare
Road map C5. Thurles, Co Tipperary.
evening you can sample
Stone Age huts on the site of
Tel 0504 43124. £ @ to Thurles.
Road map B5. Co Limerick. * 2,000. Dunraven; it is now a Catholic y Lough Gur the original settlement, offers a Open 9am–8pm daily. traditional Irish culture at the
Brú Ború Cultural Centre.
3the important towns and @ n Heritage Centre, Main St by a stone-arched bridge, is Road map B5. Co Limerick. Heritage models of stone circles, burial & 8 7 ∑ tipperary.com Named after Brian Ború, the
church and convent. Opposite,
range of audiovisual displays,
(061 396666). Open daily.
10th-century king of
the Washing Pool, a restored
chambers and tools and weapons.
Founded in 1169 by the
∑ adareheritagecentre.ie
Centre: Tel 061 385186. Open 10am–
Munster (see pp38–9), the
Benedictines, Holy Cross
wash-house site.
As well as the various pre-
5pm Mon–Fri; 12–6pm weekends &
other places to visit are Adare is billed as Ireland’s By the main bridge, on the bank hols. & 7 limited. - historic sites scattered all over was supposedly centre offers
the Knockadoon Peninsula, there endowed with
prettiest village. Cynics call it the Limerick road, is the Augus­
folk theatre,
∑ loughgur.com
prettiest “English” village since
a splinter
tinian Priory which was
traditional
are two castle ruins from more
its manicured perfection is at founded by the Fitzgeralds in This Stone Age settlement, recent times beside the lough – from the True music, banquets,
described individually. They odds with normal notions of 1316. Also known as Black 21 km (14 miles) south of the 15th-century Bourchier’s Cross, hence its name. and a craft shop. At the
Now it has been re stored,
foot of the Rock is the
Abbey, this well-restored priory
Castle and Black Castle, a
Limerick, was extensively
national beauty. Originally a fief
in habited in 3000 BC. Today the
has a central tower, subtle car-
of the Fitzgeralds, the Earls of
and the church is
13th-century seat of the Earls
13th-century Dominican
Friary. This austere sand-
are listed in order, following Kildare, Adare owes its present vings, delightful cloisters and a horseshoe-shaped lough and of Desmond. once again a popular tower and lancet windows.
surrounding hills enclose an
stone church has a fine
appearance more to the Earls of
graceful sedilia – a carved triple
place of worship and
west door, a 15th-century
seat. Just over the bridge, from
archaeological park. All around
Dunraven, who restored the
pilgrimage. Most of
the present structure
u Roscrea
village in the 1820s and 1830s.
Lough Gur are standing stones
where it is best viewed, is
the numbering on the The village is a picture of neat Desmond Castle, a13th-century and burial mounds, including Road map C4. Co Tipperary. * 4,600. dates from the 15th Crucifixion carving On farmland outside
feudal castle set on the banks of megalithic tombs. One of the
century. It was built by
stonework and thatched roofs
Cashel lie the scant
£ @ n Heritage Centre, Castle St
punctuated by pretty ruins,
remains of Hore
the River Maigue – tickets are
most impressive sights is the
the Cistercians, who
all in a woodland setting. available from the Heritage Grange Stone Circle, dating (0505 21850). Open Easter–Sep: daily. took over the abbey at Holy Cross Abbey Abbey, a 13th-century
∑ heritageireland.ie
in 1180. This gracious
Cistercian foundation.
Centre (Jun–end Sep).
Regional Map. Within each Heritage Centre, which includes Nearby stands the main gate the park, by the Limerick– This monastic town on the cruciform church, embellished The abbey was remodelled and
The tourist office is at the
back to 2,200 BC, just outside
banks of the River Bunnow has
with mullioned win dows
a tower added in the 15th
a good exhibition on Adare’s
to Adare Manor, a luxury hotel
Kilmallock road. Excavations
in the 1970s unearthed
century, but the barrel-vaulted
an interesting historic centre.
and sculpted pillars, is one
and golf course (see p299).
monastic history. Next door is
town or city, there is detailed the Trinitarian Priory, founded Within its 900 ha (2,220 acres) of rectangular, oval and rounded The 13th-century Anglo- of the finest examples of late sacristy, the nave and chapter
parkland lie St Nicholas Church Stone Age huts with stone
by the Fitzgeralds in 1230 and
Norman Roscrea Castle consists Gothic architecture in Ireland.
house are all original.
of a gate tower, curtain walls
Nearby, Farney Castle is
and two corner towers. In the the only round tower in F Brú Ború Cultural Centre
information on important courtyard stands Damer House, Ireland that is occupied as Cashel. Tel 062 61122. Open mid-Jun–
Aug: Tue–Sat; Sep–mid-Jun: Mon–Fri.
a Queen Anne-style residence
a family home. It was built
Closed 24 Dec–2 Jan. 7 =
with a magni ficent staircase and in 1495 and is currently the
∑ bruboru.ie
buildings and other sights. Georgian garden. Just over the design studio and retail outlet R Dominican Friary
river lies St Cronan’s Monastery, of Irish international designer
with a High Cross, Romanesque
Dominic Street. 7 limited.
Cyril Cullen.
church gable and a truncated
round tower. There are remains
of a 15th-century Franciscan
Friary on Abbey Street and the
renovated Blackmills now
houses the St Cronan’s High
Cross and the Roscrea Pillar.
+ Roscrea Castle & Gardens
Castle Street. Tel 0505 21850. Open
Mar–Sep: 10am–6pm daily. & 7
Neo-Gothic Adare Manor, former home of the Earls of Dunraven limited. 8 ∑ heritageireland.com Ruins of Hore Abbey (1272) with the Rock of Cashel in the background
200  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION THE L OWER SHANNON  201
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp299–300 and pp316–18
Rock of Cashel VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This rocky stronghold, which rises dramatically out of the Tipperary plain, was a symbol 198-199_EW_Ireland.indd All Pages Practical information 11/01/2016 12:53
of royal and priestly power for more than a millennium. From the 4th or 5th century it Road Map C5. Cashel.
was the seat of the Kings of Munster, whose kingdom extended over much of southern Tel 062 61437.
Ireland. In 1101, they handed Cashel over to the Church, and it flourished as a religious Open daily. Early Jun–mid-Sep:
9am–7pm; mid-Mar–early Jun &
centre until a siege by a Crom-wellian army in 1647 culminated in the massacre of its mid-Sep–mid-Oct: 9am–5:30pm;
3,000 occupants. The cathedral, which is subject to ongoing renovation, was finally mid-Oct–mid-Mar: 9am–4:30pm. The Visitors’ Checklist
abandoned in the late 18th century. A good proportion of the medieval complex is North Transept Closed 24–26 Dec. & 7 8
still standing, and Cormac’s Chapel is one of the most outstanding examples of Panels from three 16th-century tombs in the north transept Transport provides all the practical
are decorated with remarkably fresh and intricate carvings.
Romanesque architecture in the country. This one, against the north wall, features a vine-leaf design £ to Thurles. @ to Cashel.
and strange stylized beasts.
. St Patrick’s Cross The Rock information you will need
Hall of the The carving on the east face of The 28-m (92-ft) round
Vicars’ Choral this cross is said to be of St tower, the oldest and to plan your visit to all the
This hall was built in Patrick, who visited Cashel in 450. tallest building on the
the 15th century for The cross is a copy of the rock, enabled Cashel’s
Cashel’s most privi leged original which inhabitants to scour the
choristers. The ceiling, a stood here until surrounding plain for top sights.
modern reconstruction 1982 and is now potential attackers.
based on medieval in the museum.
designs, features
several decorative
corbels including this
painted angel.
Entrance
Ireland’s Top Sights These are
4given two or more full pages.
KEY
1 Limestone rock Historic buildings are dissected
2 Outer wall
3 The Museum in the under- Key to reveal their interiors. The
croft contains a display of stone 12th Century
carvings, including the original 4 St Patrick’s Cross
(replica)
St Patrick’s Cross. 12 Cormac’s Chapel
4 Dormitory block most interesting towns or
5 Crossing 13 Round tower

13th Century
6 Round tower 6 Cathedral porch
7 The Choir contains the 7 Nave city centres are shown in a
17th-century tomb of Miler Magrath, 8 Crossing
who caused a scandal by being both 9 South transept
a Protestant and Catholic archbishop 10 Choir
at the same time. 11 North transept bird’s-eye view, with sights
8 Graveyard . Cathedral 15th Century
The roofless Gothic cathedral
9 The O’Scully Monument, an . Cormac’s Chapel has thick walls riddled with 1 2 Ticket office
Hall of the Vicars’
ornate memorial erected in 1870 Superb Romanesque carving adorns this hidden passages; in the north 0 metres 500 Choral (museum) picked out and described.
by a local landowning family, was chapel – the jewel of Cashel. The tympanum transept these are seen 0 yards 500 3 Dormitory
dam aged during a storm in 1976. over the north door shows a centaur in a emerging at the base of 5 Castle
helmet aiming his bow and arrow at a lion. the windows.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–303 and pp308–25
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