Page 26 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

24 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Where to Eat

One of the great pleasures of travelling in Northern and Central
Italy is exploring the rich culinary and wine-making traditions of
each region. Every drive in this guide provides the opportunity
to sample regional specialities, whether it be the pesto and fish
dishes of Liguria, the truffles, hams and salamis of Umbria or
the cheeses, dumplings and smoked sausages of the Alto-Adige.
Below is a basic guide to the typical kinds of eating places you will
find in Italy, from simple pizzerias to sophisticated gourmet haunts.
Practical Information on a separate dish alongside. Finally, Above Menu for a pizza restaurant in Riva del
Perhaps the most typical Italian there is the dolce, or dessert. House Garda, near Lake Garda
breakfast is a croissant (cornetto) and wines can vary in quality, but a
coffee at a bar. The coffee comes in quarto (quarter), mezzo (half) or more basic, homely sort of place; the
a staggering variety of modes, from 1-litre caraffa (carafe) will always menu was often scrawled on a
short and sharp (un caffè) to long and be at the very least drinkable. blackboard, and there were sheets of
milky (latte macchiato). An espresso In cities and major towns, credit newsprint to cover the tables and on
diluted with hot water to make it cards are widely accepted – less so which to write the bill. An osteria was
resemble American filter coffee is an in smaller places and in the country, an unpretentious country or city
Americano; an espresso with a blob where it is advisable to carry cash. hostelry, offering a few cold cuts of
of frothy milk is a caffè macchiato. Tax and service must be included meat with some cheese, and maybe
Italians wouldn’t dream of having a in the bill by law, and a small cover a simple pasta dish to accompany a
frothy cappucino at any time of day charge (coperto) is usually added. glass of the local wine. However, that
other than breakfast. In summer, there Tipping is becoming more common; has all changed, and these days the
is usually iced coffee – caffè freddo. 10 per cent is usual in smarter or choice of name for an establishment
The main meal is lunch, normally more touristy places. depends more on the tradition the
served in restaurants from noon Italians rarely dress down, so place identifies with than price, decor
until 2pm, though in summer resorts dressing fairly smartly will generally or ambience. Ristorante is now a
you’ll find a few restaurants that keep fit the bill. Men – like women – will be neutral, generic term that could apply
their kitchens open right through to expected to wear tops during meals, to anything from a Michelin-starred
dinner, which is usually served from even at beachside places. Only in gem to a seaside joint where mass-
7:30–10:30pm. Most restaurants are the most exclusive restaurants is dress catering is the order of the day; and
closed one day a week and display formal, and men required to wear a although there are trattorie and osterie
their giorno di chiusura (closed day) in tie and jacket. Children are welcome that have existed for half a century,
the window, although in the summer, in restaurants, even late at night. today the terms might as easily
many open seven days a week. apply to the best restaurant in town.
Meals begin with an antipasto, Ristoranti, Trattorie, Osterie “Trattoria” often implies an interest in
or starter, followed by the primo, These are the three main types of reviving and reinventing traditional
or first course – most commonly restaurants in Italy, and until some dishes; whereas “osteria” tends to
pasta, risotto or, in winter, a minestra years ago they were quite distinct. suggest an emphasis on sourcing
(hearty soup). The secondo is the meat A ristorante was a “proper” restaurant, the very best primary ingredients
and fish course, with the contorno with linen tablecloths and waiters and wines, as promoted, for instance,
(vegetables or salad) usually served in uniform. A trattoria was usually a by the Slow Food movement.

024-025_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 24 21/09/17 11:19 am