Page 27 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

Where to Eat 25

Left Restaurant table in the Parco Naturale del Monte San Bartolo Right Caffè degli Specchi on Piazza dell Unita d’Italia, Trieste
Pizzerias Picnics DIRECTORY
Pizzerias are found throughout Italy, There is no better excuse for sampling
but contrary to popular myth, it local produce than a picnic. With PRICE CATEGORIES
is only too easy to find doughy, that end in view, you will need to find
substandard pizza. You have more a delicatessen (alimentari) where you The following price bands are based
on a three-course meal for one,
chance of striking gold if you go to can buy delicacies such as rosemary- including a half-bottle of house wine,
a pizzeria with a wood-burning oven spiked hams, mature gorgonzola, cover charge, tax and service:
(forno a legna), from which the pizzas speck and olives; a bakery (il forno); inexpensive – under €25
should emerge bubbling, scorched and a greengrocer (fruttivendolo) moderate – €25–€45
and blistered. Pizzerias are almost or market (mercato) packed with expensive – over €45
always informal places, and pizza is seasonal fruits and vegetables.
usually only served in the evening Along with stall upon stall of the
(as it takes hours to get the oven hot freshest fruit and vegetables, weekly
enough). The classic accompaniment markets also bring together local
to pizza is a cold draught beer. smallholders offering such things as
home-cured cheeses and salamis.
Cafés and Bars There are often stalls with specialities
At one end of the spectrum are grand from the south of Italy too – capers,
cafés with chandelier-lit interiors and sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella di
terraces fringing some of the most bufala and spicy salami – which add
spectacular piazzas in Italy; at the other, an exotic touch. Less romantically,
modest local bars with 1980s colour Italian supermarkets, including
schemes, steaming coffee machines chains like Esselunga and Coop, stock
and dusty plastic flowers. These very good-quality fresh produce as
unpretentious neighbourhood bars well as freshly baked bread.
often have standing-room only and are Mountain regions often have
places to come for breakfast, a quick picnic areas with massive outside
toasted sandwich or a swift shot of grills – a great way of sampling a Below far left Black truffles at the
coffee. Some have a few tables outside Chiavenna steak or a freshly caught Sansepolcro market Below left Fruits on a
for a more leisurely breakfast or aperitif, red mullet. Around the lakes you will Bolzano market stall Below middle Al fresco
though you should find time at least find free beaches (spiaggia pubblica) dining in Orvieto Below middle right
once on your trip to dawdle over a where you can settle on a grassy Subterranean wine vault, Canonica a Cerreto,
Campari soda and olives in a traditional patch by the lakeside and enjoy Chianti Below Display at a bakery and bar
pavement café watching life pass by. your carefully chosen delights. in San Casciano dei Bagni

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