Page 71 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 5: Lombardy’s Glacial Valleys 69

0 metres 400
V I A SAN VIGILIO
San 0 yards 400
Vigilio
Colle
Aperto
PORTA CITTADELLA
V IA DEGLI ORTI
SANT’ VIA D ELLA BOCCOL A VIALE DELLA FARA
PIAZZA
ALESSANDRO MASCHERONI Città Alta
VIALE DELLE MURAPIAZZA DELLA VIA DEL VAGINE VIA TAS S I S VIA SAN LORENZ O
VIA COLLEONI Piazza
Vecchia
Torre Civica
VIA TRE A RMI
Cappella VIA GOMBITO
Colleoni VIA PORTA D IPINTA
PIAZZA DEL Torre
VIA DELLO SATUT O delle Scarpe
DUOMO Gombito
Piazza
Mercato
VIALE DELLE MURA
VIA TRE ARMI
Porta San V VITTORIO EMANUELE II
Giacomo
Funicular
VIA ALBERTO RIVA VILLASANTA
VIA SANTA LUCIA VIA ANTONIO VIA SA N T’A L E SSANDRO ANTONIO LOCATETTI
VIA BRIGATA LUPI
ROSMINI
PIAZZALE
DELLA
CARLO BOTTA REPUBBLICA Above View of the Duomo and its Neo-Classical
VIA DON
VI A DE L LO S TATU TO
V SAN CARLO
VIA TORINO
VIA MILANO
west façade from Torre Civica, Bergamo
VIALE VITTORIO EMANUELE II
VIA FRAN CESCO NULLO
EAT AND DRINK
drink with sweeping views across the cobbled lanes rising up to the Piazza BERGAMO
city to the plains. Exit the funicular Orologio, where the frescoed
station and follow the road round to and porticoed Palazzo Comunale Cooperativa Città Alta inexpensive
Great-value, hearty portions of local
the left and on to the belvedere area, sports a working astronomical clock pasta, polenta and grilled meats are
which has splendid views over 19th- from 1585. Still higher stands the served under the vines.
century villas and gardens – the sum- Baroque Basilica di Santa Maria Vicolo Sant’Agata 19 (off Via Colleoni),
mer homes of wealthy Milanese. Rest Assunta, with a wonderful 15th- 24129; 035 218 568; www.ilcircolino
here, then head down steep Via San century fresco of the Triumph of Death cittaalta.it
Vigilio, keeping the funicular lines on and a Dance Macabre next door; note Baretto di San Vigilio moderate
the left. Turn left through Porta the rich kings and bishops trying to The views from this elegant restaurant
Sant’Alessandro to return to Colle bribe their way out of death. create a romantic atmosphere.
Via al Castello di San Vigilio 1, Colle
Aperto. Here, catch the bus (line 1) to ª Back at the roundabout, take the San Vigilio, 24129; 035 253 191;
the car park or walk back along the SS671 left towards Rovetta, then right www.barettosanvigilio.it
lovely Venetian walls. To do the latter, on SP53 to Lovere. Through Lovere, Vineria Cozzi moderate
head down Viale delle Mura, on the follow signs to Darfo Boario Terme on This is a classy enoteca with a stylish,
right, all the way to Porta San the SR55, then take the SS42 north up good-quality restaurant attached.
Giacomo 7, then take winding Via the Val Camonica to Capo di Ponte. At Via Colleoni 22/A, 24129; 035 238 836;
Sant’Alessandro down through a the roundabout at the village entrance, www.vineriacozzi.it
medieval neighbourhood to Via Don follow the brown signs to Naquane and
Carlo Botta, which leads left, back to Parco Nazionale delle Incisoni Below Panificio Tresoldi, a bakery-patisserie in
Viale Vittorio Emanuele II and the car Rupestri over the railway line. Park by Bergamo’s medieval Città Alta (Upper Town)
park at Piazzale della Repubblica. the 15th-century church. The park
ª South of Bergamo, pick up the entrance is a 10-minute walk uphill.
SS671 (signed Val Seriana) and follow
signs to Clusone for 32 km (20 miles). Bergamo’s polenta
On the roundabout after the small The yellow cornmeal staple,
Fonti Pineta mineral water plant, polenta, features heavily on many
follow signs to the centre and use of Bergamo’s restaurant menus
one of the marked car parks. and has been enjoyed in the region
for centuries. It can be served with
salami, wild mushrooms, melted
2 Clusone Taleggio cheese or roast veal. Or
Bergamo, Lombardia; 24023 you might find it sliced and
High in the mill-lined Val Seriana, chargrilled along with a selection
Clusone is an appealing medieval of fresh vegetables.
town of pastel-coloured houses and
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
068-071_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 69 21/09/17 11:16 am