Page 72 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
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70 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


                                                       on the area’s moranic sand has created
                                                       these extraordinary columns which are
                                                       often topped by a granite boulder. At
                                                       the entrance to the park stands the
                                                       12th-century Chiesa di San Giorgio,
                                                       with frescoes of Saint George slaying
                                                       dragons and the the profile of
                                                       Florentine writer Dante, who visited
                                                       the area in the 14th century.
                                                       ª Return to Marone via SP32, take
                                                       SP510bis south to Iseo, which has
                                                       several pay-and-display car parks.
                                                       5 Iseo
                                                       Brescia, Lombardia; 25049
                                                       The largest village on the eastern
                                                       side of Lago d’Iseo, ancient Iseo was
                                                       an important trading post before it
                                                       was sacked by Federico I Barabarossa
                                                       in the 12th century. Now a low-key
                                                       resort, the semi-pedestrianized
                                                       medieval village centre boasts an
       Above View of Sale Marasino, one of Lago        arcaded main square, stone lanes, a
       d’Iseo’s pretty villages  Top right Sale   3 Val Camonica  handful of decent restaurants and
       Marasino’s church, seen from the lake ferry   Brescia, Lombardia; 25044  a lakeside promenade with views
       Above right Iron Age rock carvings at Parco   Scattered over the hillsides of the Val   across the water to the wooded cliffs
       Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri   Camonica are thousands of stones   of the opposite shore. Ferries leave
                               inscribed with fascinating prehistoric   here for destinations around the lake,
        VISITING VAL CAMONICA  rock carvings. Dating from Neolithic   most notably to Monte Isola.
                               times through to the Iron Age,   ª Leave the car behind and catch a
       Tourist Information
       Via S Briscioli 42, Capo di Ponte, Brescia   together they are recognized as a   ferry across to Monte Isola.
       25044; 0364 42 080; www.  UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of
       invallecamonica.it      the largest concentrations is found   6 Monte Isola
        WHERE TO STAY          just outside Capo di Ponte. The Parco   Brescia, Lombardia; 25050
                               Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri   The largest lake island in Europe,
       VAL CAMONICA            (open 8:30am–dusk Tue–Sun; www.  Monte Isola is 9 km (6 miles) around
       Casa Visnenza inexpensive  parcoincisioni.capodiponte.beniculturali.  and more than 600 m (2,000 ft) high,
       This comfy B&B in Cemmo, right next to   it) is an attractive, open-air site littered   topped by the Santuario della
       Capo di Ponte, is run by owners who
       are knowledgeable about local sights.    with more than 100 carved boulders   Madonna della Ceriola, with fabulous
       Via San Faustino 7, 25044 Cemmo di   that can be explored over a couple   360-degree views. Arriving is part of
       Capo di Ponte; 320 906 4557; closed Mon   of hours. Wonderfully evocative and   the fun, with lovely views of lakeside
       –Fri Mar–Nov; www.casavisnenza.com  dynamic, scenes portray hunts and   villages along the way. Stroll along
                               funerals, boats, and people dancing,
       ISEO
       La Tesa inexpensive     farming, fighting and worshipping.  Below Passenger ferry cruising across Lago d’Iseo
       An organic farm in the hills above Iseo   ª Return back down the SS42, forking   past stunning mountain scenery
       offering simple apartments and rooms.    right on SP510 towards Brescia. After
       Via Silvio Bonomelli, Colline d’Iseo   a series of tunnels, turn right onto the
       25049; 030 982 2984; closed Jan–Feb;   lakeside SP510bis, signed Lago d’Iseo.
       www.latesa.it
                               In Marone, just after the parish church
       BRESCIA                 on the right, take the poorly signed left
       Albergo Orologio inexpensive  turn to Zone SP32 (down the side of the
       Something of a boutique hotel, this is   Municipio building), then drive up the
       a cosy place in the centre of town.    winding road to the car park at Zone.
       Via Cesare Beccaria 17, 25121; 030 375
       5411; www.albergoorologio.it
                               4 The Pyramids of Zone
       ERBUSCO                 Brescia, Lombardia; 25050
       L’Albereta expensive    Strange rock formations, resembling
       Every comfort is catered for at this   giant anthills, pepper the natural
       luxurious Relais & Chateaux hotel.    reserve around the village of Zone,
       Via Vittorio Emanuele 23, 25030; 030
       776 0550; www.albereta.it  high above Lago d’Iseo. Rain erosion
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

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