Page 100 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

98 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y

dramatic of his works are the gold leaf, vermilion and
towering masterpieces that ultramarine. Over the years
decorate the chancel (1562–4). the palace was extensively
On the right wall is the Last remodelled, and by the
Judgment, whose 18th century was in a state
turbulent content of semi-dereliction. In 1846 it
caused John Ruskin’s was bought by the Russian
wife, Effie, to flee the Prince Troubetzkoy for the
church in horror. In The famous ballerina Marie Taglioni.
Adoration of the Golden Under her direction the palace
Calf on the left wall, the suffered barbaric restoration,
figure carrying the calf, losing, among other things, its
fourth from the left, is staircase and much of its
believed to be a original stonework. It was finally
portrait of the artist. rescued by Baron Giorgio
Inside the chapel of Franchetti, a wealthy patron of
San Mauro, off the the arts, who bequeathed both
Madonna dell’Orto, with 15th-century façade statues end of the right nave, the building and his private art
of St Christopher and the Apostles stands a statue of the collection to the State in 1915.
Madonna by Giovanni Pride of place on the first of
1 Madonna de’ Santi. It was restored by the the gallery’s two floors goes to
dell’Orto Venice in Peril fund, and inspired Andrea Mantegna’s St Sebastian
the rededication of the church. (1506), the artist’s last work,
Campo Madonna dell’Orto. Map 2 F2. which occupies a special alcove
Tel 041 719933. 4 Madonna of its own. Elsewhere, the floor’s
dell’Orto. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 2 Ca’ d’Oro main exhibits are ranged around
noon–5pm Sun & pub hols. the portego (gallery). This is
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ^ Calle Ca’ d’Oro. Map 3 A4. Tel 041 520 largely dominated by the vivid
∑ madonnadellorto.org 03 45. 4 Ca’ d’Oro. Open 8:15am–
2pm Mon, 8:15am–7:15pm Tue–Sun 15th-century Double Portrait
This lovely Gothic church, (last adm: 6:45pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 (c.1493) by the sculptor Tullio
founded in the mid-14th century, May, 25 Dec. & 9 = 7 partial. Lombardo; Sansovino’s lunette
was dedicated to St Christopher, ^∑ cadoro.org of the Madonna and Child
patron saint of travellers, to (c.1530); and several bronze
protect the boatmen who ferried In 1420 Marino reliefs by the Paduan
passengers to the islands in the Contarini, a Andrea Briosco, “Il
northern lagoon. A 15th-century wealthy patrician, Riccio” (1470–1532).
statue of the saint, restored commissioned the Rooms leading off
by the Venice in Peril fund, building of what the portego to the
stands above the main portal. he hoped would right contain
The dedication was changed be the city’s most numerous bronzes
and the church reconstructed magnificent palace and medallions,
in the early 15th century, (see p85). The Tullio Lombardo’s with some examples
after the discovery, in a nearby building’s intricate Double Portrait by Pisanello and
vegetable garden (orto), of a carving was entrus- Gentile Bellini.
statue of the Virgin Mary said ted to a team of Venetian and Paintings here also include the
to have miraculous powers. Lombard craftsmen, while the famous Madonna of the Beautiful
The interior, faced almost façade was adorned with the Eyes, attributed to Giovanni
entirely in brick, is large and most elaborate and expensive Bellini, a Madonna and Child,
uncluttered. On the right is a decorative finishes, including attributed to Alvise Vivarini (both
magnificent painting by Cima late 15th century),
da Conegliano, St John the and Carpaccio’s
Baptist and Other Saints (c.1493). Annunciation and
The vacant space in the chapel Death of the Virgin
opposite belongs to Giovanni (both c.1504). A room
Bellini’s Madonna with Child to the left of the
(c.1478), stolen in 1993 for portego contains non-
the third time. Venetian paintings,
The church’s greatest notably a Flagellation
remaining treasures are the by Luca Signorelli
works of art by Tintoretto, who (c.1480). A lovely
was a parishioner of the church. staircase leads to the
His tomb lies with that of his second floor, which
children, in the chapel to the The magnificent Gothic façade of the Ca’ d’Oro, opens with a room
right of the chancel. The most or House of Gold hung with tapestries.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 12th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm