Page 150 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

148 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y

Exploring Verona R Tombs of the Scaligeri
Via Arche Scaligeri.
Since the days of the Roman Empire, Piazza Erbe – built on the Beside the entrance to the
site of the ancient Roman forum – has been the centre of Verona. tiny Romanesque church of
Many of the city’s fine palazzi, churches and monuments are Santa Maria Antica, once the
nearly as ancient, several dating from the medieval period. parish church of the powerful
Scaligeri family, lie a profusion
of bizarre tombs of the one-
time rulers of Verona.
Over the entrance to the
church is the impressive tomb
of Cangrande I (died 1329),
surmounted by an equestrian
statue of the ruler, a copy of
the original which is now in
Castelvecchio (see pp146–7).
The other Scaligeri
tombs are next to the
church, behind a
wrought -iron fence
which incorporates
the ladder emblem
of the family’s ori-
The fountain, erected in the 14th century at the centre of Piazza Erbe ginal name (della
Scala, meaning
P Piazza Erbe commanders. Beside it is the “of the steps”).
Piazza Erbe is named after the equally intimidating Palazzo Towering above
city’s old herb market. Today’s della Ragione, the palace of the fence are the
stalls, shaded by umbrellas, sell Reason, or law court; both tombs of Mastino II
everything from herb-flavoured were built in the 14th century. (died 1351) and
roast suckling pig in bread rolls The courtyard of the law court Cansignorio (died
to succulent fresh-picked fruit has a handsome external stone 1375), splendidly 14th-century
and delicious wild mushrooms. staircase, added in 1446–50. decorated with a Scaligeri tomb
At the northern end of the Stunning views of the Alps can profusion of tiny
square is the Baroque Palazzo be enjoyed from atop the 84 m Gothic spires. Other members
Maffei (1668), surmounted by (275 ft) Torre dei Lamberti, of the Scaligeri family lie within
statues. In front of it rises a column which rises from the western a series of plainer tombs which
supporting the Venetian lion side of the courtyard. stand nearer the church wall.
marking Verona’s absorption Behind the statue of Dante
into the Venetian empire (1405). is the Loggia del Consiglio R Sant’Anastasia
On the west side is the Casa dei (1493), the council chamber. The Piazza Sant’Anastasia. Tel 045 59 28 13.
Mercanti, a largely 17th-century building is topped by statues of Open daily (pm only Sun). & 7 ^
building that dates originally Roman worthies born in Verona: ∑ chieseverona.it
from 1301. Opposite, wall they include Pliny the Elder, the This huge and lofty church was
frescoes are still visible above natural historian, and Vitruvius, begun in 1290. Faded 15th-
the cafés. the architectural theorist. century frescoes and carved
The fountain in the middle The square is linked to Piazza scenes from the life of St Peter
of the piazza is often over- Erbe by the Arco della Costa, or Martyr adorn its Gothic portal.
shadowed by the market the Arch of the Rib, named after Inside, there are two holy-water
stalls, though the statue at its the whale rib that is said to have stoups, supported on figures
centre dates from Roman times. hung here for the past 1000 years. of beggars, known as i gobbi
It serves as a reminder that (the hunchbacks).
this piazza has been used as a These figures were
marketplace for 2,000 years. carved a century
apart: the earlier
P Piazza dei Signori one (on the left)
Torre dei Lamberti. dates from 1495.
Tel 045 927 30 27. The sacristy, off
Open 10am–7pm daily. & the north aisle,
In the centre of the square is a is home to a fine
19th-century statue of Dante, (but damaged)
whose gaze seems fixed on the fresco by Pisanello:
forbidding Palazzo del Capitano, The frescoed Renaissance façade of the Loggia del Consiglio St George and the
once the home of Verona’s military on Piazza dei Signori Princess (1433–8).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 12th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm