Page 206 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

204 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

Milan: Southwest of the Centre

Some of Milan’s finest treasures are to be found in its religious
buildings; the ancient monasteries and churches make up
some very fine architectural ensembles in themselves, as well
as incorporating important ruins and relics dating back to
Roman times. It is also in Milan that one of the most famous
images in the world is to be found: Leonardo’s evocative
masterpiece, The Last Supper.

gems. In a chapel off the south
aisle, fine mosaics line a stunning
cupola. In the crypt lies the San Lorenzo Maggiore viewed
tomb of Sant’Ambrogio himself. from the northeast
Above the portico, a small
museum contains architectural R Santa Maria delle Grazie
fragments, tapestries and Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2. Tel 02
paintings relating to the church. 46 76 111. Open daily. Cenacolo: Tel
02 92 80 03 60 (booking compulsory –
R San Lorenzo Maggiore up to 60 days in advance). Open
The entrance to Sant’Ambrogio, flanked by Corso di Porta Ticinese 39. Tel 02 89 8:15am–6:45pm Tue–Sun. Closed pub
unequal bell towers 40 41 29. Open 8am–6:30pm Mon– hols. & 7 ∑ cenacolovinciano.org
Sat, 9am–7pm Sun. Cappella This beautiful 15th-century
R Sant’Ambrogio Sant’Aquilino: Open 9am–6:30pm Renaissance convent, its lovely
Piazza Sant’Ambrogio 15. Tel 02 86 45 daily. & for the Cappella. apse and calm small cloister
08 95. Basilica: Open 10am–noon, ∑ sanlorenzomaggiore.com designed by Bramante, contains
2:30–6pm Mon–Sat, 3–5pm Sun. This church contains a vast one of the key images of
Museum: Open 10am–noon, collection of Roman and Western civilization: the
2:30–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 3–5pm Sun. early Christian remains. The Cenacolo (The Last Supper) by
7 ∑ basilicasantambrogio.it
octagonal basilica was built in Leonardo da Vinci. The image
Sant’Ambrogio, or St Ambrose, the 4th century, above what captures the moment at which
Milan’s patron saint and its was probably a Roman amphi- Christ tells his disciples that one
bishop in the 4th century, was theatre, and rebuilt in the of them will betray him. The
so eloquent that bees were said 12th and 16th centuries. Christ figure is unfinished: Leo-
to fly into his mouth, attracted In front of the church stands nardo did not consider himself
by his honey tongue. This is the a row of 16 Roman columns worthy enough to complete it.
basilica that he began in AD 379, and a statue of Emperor The artist also spurned the
though today most of it is Constantine. Fine 4th-century standard fresco technique of
10th-century Romanesque. mosaics adorn the Cappella di painting on wet plaster, apply-
A gateway leads to the bronze Sant’Aquilino, a Romanesque ing tempera to the dry wall
doors of the entrance, flanked chapel, with two early Christian instead. The result has deterio-
by two bell towers. Inside, note sarcophagi. Other Roman rated badly: the paint is flaking
the fine rib vaulting and pulpit, architectural elements of this off, and restoration has proved
and the 9th-century altar church are in a chamber difficult. The painting is now
decorated with gold, silver and below the chapel. protected by a filtering system.

Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper (1494–7) adorning the refectory wall of Santa Maria delle Grazie
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm