Page 234 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

232 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

s Vercelli Vercelli’s other
important historic
* 47,000. V @ n Viale Garibaldi
90 (0161 58 002). ( Tue & Fri. buildings include
∑ atlvalsesiavercelli.it the imposing 16th-
century Duomo,
Vercelli is the rice capital of the church of San
Europe, set in a vast plain of Cristoforo, with
paddy fields that create the frescoes and a fine
appearance of shimmering Madonna degli
sheets of water stretching far Aranci (both
into the distance. Vercelli itself c.1529) painted by
also developed its own school Gaudenzio Ferrari, Detail of the carving on the 15th-century porch at the
of painting in the 16th century, and the Piazza entrance to the Duomo in Asti
and has one major architectu ral Cavour with its
treasure, the 13th-century medieval arcades. The Museo also a tranquil and noble city
Basilica di Sant’Andrea. Borgogna is the best place to of medieval towers, elegant
The Basilica, standing just admire the masterpieces of the churches and warm red roofs.
across from the railway station, Vercelli school. The main Just north of the main railway
is famous as the first example shopping street, Corso Libertà, station lies the Piazza del
of Italian architecture to be has a handful of attractive 15th- Campo del Palio, the largest
influenced by the Gothic style century houses and courtyards. square in Asti and formerly the
of northern France – note the site of its annual horse race,
beautiful vaulted nave and the E Museo Borgogna now in Piazza Alfieri. The race,
flying buttresses, typical Gothic Via A Borgogna 4/6. Tel 0161 25 27 76. held on the third Sunday of
elements. Overall, however, the Open Tue–Fri pm, Sat am (Mar–mid- September to coincide with
Basilica remains a stunning May also pm), Sun am & pm. Closed the local wine fair, rivals the
achievement in Romanesque 1 Jan, 15 Aug, 1 Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 Palio in Siena (see p345) for
architecture, built from 1219 ∑ museoborgogna.it outrageous horsemanship
to 1227 as part of an abbey for and medieval pageantry.
the papal legate Cardinal Guala Beyond this square lies the
Bicheri. The façade, curiously, triangular-shaped Piazza Alfieri.
changes colour halfway up, A statue here commemorates
the blue-grey of the lower the local poet and dramatist
part turning to red and white Vittorio Alfieri (1749–1803),
in the twin towers; these are in whose honour both this
linked by a double arcade. A square and the main street
carving attributed to Antelami The 13th-century cloisters of the Basilica di were renamed.
(12th century) adorns the Sant’Andrea in Vercelli Corso Alfieri runs the entire
central lunette. length of the old city centre.
The three-aisled interior is At its eastern end stands the
gently illuminated through d Asti 15th-century church of San
rose windows. The muted * 77,000. V @ n Piazza Alfieri 34 Pietro in Consavia, with its
decoration is largely focused (0141 53 03 57). ( Wed & Sat. terracotta decoration,
on the vaul ting, which is ∑ astiturismo.it 17th-century frescoes and
supported by tall, slender attractive cloister. Beside it is the
shafts. Off the north side is the Renowned for its spumante circular Romanesque baptistry
simple 13th-century cloister, (sparkling) wine, Asti is at the which dates from the 10th–12th
beautifully framed by arcades centre of Italy’s most prestigious centuries; it was once the church
rising from clustered columns. wine region (see pp186–7) and of the Knights of the Order of
St John of Jerusalem, who had
their headquarters here.
West of Piazza Alfieri is the
Collegiata di San Secondo
(13th–15th century), named
after Asti’s patron saint,
which houses a Renaissance
polyptych by Gandolfino d’Asti
and 15th-century frescoes.
The area around the western
section of Corso Alfieri contains
a few of the medieval towers
for which the town was once
famous; they include the Torre
The watery expanses of the rice fields around Vercelli dei Comentini, the very elegant
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p565–9 and pp584–90

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 13th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm