Page 329 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

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R Santa Maria Forisportam
Piazza di Santa Maria Forisportam.
Open daily.
This church was built at the end
of the 12th century, beyond the
Roman walls of Lucca. Its name,
Forisportam, means “outside the
gate”. The unfinished marble
façade, in Pisan-Romanesque
style, has blind arcading. Above
the central portal is a relief of
the Coronation of the Virgin
(17th century). The interior was
redesigned in the early 16th
century, resulting in the nave and
transepts being raised. The fourth
altar of the south aisle contains a
painting of St Lucy, and the north
transept has an Assumption,
both by Guercino (1591–1666).
E Museo Nazionale di
Baroque gods and goddesses in the garden of the Palazzo Pfanner Villa Guinigi
Via della Quarquonia. Tel 0583 555
king and a rare 12th-century around 1500, when advances 70. Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sat.
Limoges casket, possibly created in military technology made Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 8
for a relic of St Thomas à Becket. the old medieval defences This massive Renaissance villa
The Croce dei Pisani, made by ineffective. On their completion was built in 1418 for Paolo
Vincenzo di Michele in 1411, in 1645, the walls were Guinigi, leading light of
is a sublime masterpiece of the some of the most the noble family who
goldsmith’s art. It shows Christ advanced of their time. ruled Lucca in the early
on the Tree of Redemption, One of their most 15th century. A familiar
surrounded by angels, the Virgin, curious features was landmark of the city is
St John and the other Evangelists. the open space that the battlemented tower,
lay beyond them, the Torre dei Guinigi, with
P Palazzo Pfanner and which survives oak trees growing at the
Via degli Asili 33. Tel 0583 95 40 29. to this day, cleared top. It offers good views
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm; 1–15 Nov: to prevent the enemy over the city and the
11am–4pm; rest of year: by appt. 8 taking cover in trees Apuan Alps. The garden
This elegant, imposing house and undergrowth. Romanesque lion in features traces of
(1667) has a beautiful outside Ironically, the walls the Museo Nazionale a Roman mosaic,
staircase. It also boasts one never actually had to Guinigi together with a pride
of Tuscany’s most delightful be defended, and they of Romanesque lions
formal gardens. Laid out in were eventually converted removed from the city’s walls.
the 18th century, the garden’s into a public park in the early Inside, the museum’s first
central avenue is lined with 19th century. floor is devoted to sculptures
Baroque statues of the gods and archaeological displays.
and goddesses of ancient The highlights are works by
Roman mythology. The garden Matteo Civitali, Jacopo della
can also be viewed while Quercia and fine Romanesque
walking along the ramparts. reliefs removed from several of
The house itself contains Lucca’s churches. Most of the
an interesting collection of paintings in the gallery on the
furniture, antiques and floor above are by minor local
medical instruments. artists, with the exception of
two by Fra Bartolo meo (c.1472–
P Ramparts 1517): God the Father with Saints
One of the pleasures of visiting Catherine and Mary Magdalene
Lucca is strolling along the and the Madonna della
ramparts – the magnificent Misericordia. The floor also has
city walls, whose tree-lined furnishings, church vestments
promenade offers some and choir stalls from Lucca’s
entrancing views of the city. Part of the imposing 17th-century cathedral, inlaid with marquetry
Work on the ramparts began ramparts that encircle Lucca views of the city carved in 1529.

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