Page 417 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

ROME : NOR THEAST ROME  415

a quieter beast, symbolizing
the two contrasting moods
of the sea.
The site originally marked the
terminal of the Aqua Virgo
aqueduct, built by Augustus’s
right-hand man and son-in-law,
Agrippa, in 19 BC to channel
water to Rome’s new bath
complexes. One of the reliefs
on the first storey shows a
young girl, Trivia, after whom
the fountain may have been
named. She is said to have first
shown the spring, 22 km The dome of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, by Borromini
(14 miles) from the city, to
thirsty Roman soldiers. 8 San Carlo alle palazzo. Designed by Carlo
Quattro Fontane Maderno as a typical country villa
on the fringes of the city, it now
Via del Quirinale 23. Map 3 B3. overlooks Piazza Barberini, where
Tel 06 488 32 61. @ 116 & routes to traffic hurtles around Bernini’s
Piazza Barberini. q Barberini. Triton fountain. Maderno died
Open 10am–1pm, 3–6pm daily (only shortly after the foundations
am Sat & Sun).
had been laid, and Bernini and
In 1638, Borromini was Borromini took over. The most
commissioned by the dazzling room is the Gran
Trinitarians to design a Salone, with an illusion-
church and convent on istic ceiling frescoed by
a tiny cramped site at Pietro da Cortona in
the Quattro Fontane 1633–9. The palazzo
crossroads. The also houses part of
church, so small that the Galleria
it is said it would fit Nazionale d’Arte
inside one of the Antica with
piers of St Peter’s, works by Titian,
Interior of the Sant’Andrea al Quirinale is designed with Filippo Lippi,
7 Sant’Andrea al bold, fluid curves Caravaggio and
Artemisia Genti-
on both the
Quirinale façade and interior Ceiling fresco detail in Palazzo leschi. The most
to give light and life Barberini (1633–9) famous is a portrait
Via del Quirinale 29. Map 3 B3. of a courtesan,
Tel 06 487 45 65. @ 116, 117. to the diminutive
Open 8:30am–noon, 2:30–7pm Tue– building. The dome, with its reputedly Raphael’s
Sat; 9am–noon, 2:30–6pm Sun. ^ concealed windows, illusionistic lover, La Fornarina, although not
coffering and tiny lantern painted by the artist himself.
Sant’Andrea was designed for designed to make it look
the Jesuits by Bernini and higher than it really is, is a
executed by his assistants cunning feature. 0 Santa Maria della
between 1658 and 1670. The Concezione
site was wide but shallow, so 9 Galleria
Bernini took the radical step Via Veneto 27. Map 3 B2. Tel 06 88 80
of pointing the long axis of his Nazionale di Arte 36 95. @ 52, 53, 61, 62, 63, 80, 116,
oval plan towards the sides, and Antica: Palazzo 175. q Barberini. Open Capuchin
leading the eye round to the Barberini Museum: 9am–7pm daily; Church:
altar by means of a strong 7am–1pm & 3–6pm daily. &
horizontal cornice. At the altar Via delle Quattro Fontane 13. Map 3 Below this unassuming church
he combined sculpture and B3. Tel 06 482 41 84. @ 52, 53, 61, 62, is a crypt decked with the
painting to create a theatrical 63, 80, 116, 175, 492, 590. q Barberini. dismembered skeletons of 4,000
crucifixion of Sant’Andrea Open 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (last Capuchin monks. They form a
(St Andrew); the diagonally adm: 6:30pm). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. macabre reminder of the
& ^ 8 = d 7 (lift).
crucified saint on the altarpiece ∑ galleriabarberini.beniculturali.it transience of life, with vertebrae
looks up at a stucco effigy of wired together to make sacred
himself ascending to the lantern, When Maffeo Barberini became hearts and crowns of thorns, and,
where the Holy Spirit and Pope Urban VIII in 1623, he in one chapel, the skeleton of a
cherubs await him in heaven. decided to build a grand family tiny Barberini princess.

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