Page 418 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy
P. 418

416      ROME  AND  LAZIO

       q Santa Maria della   older collec-
       Vittoria            tions. During
                           the 1990s it
       Via XX Settembre 17. Map 3 C2.    underwent
       Tel 06 42 74 05 71. @ 61, 62, 175, 910.   a major
       q Repubblica. Open 8:30am–noon,
       3:30–6pm daily.     reorganization
                           and now has
       Santa Maria della Vittoria is an   five branches:
       intimate Baroque church with a   the Palazzo
       lavish, candlelit interior. Inside   Altemps (see
       the Cornaro chapel is one of   p404); the Baths
       Bernini’s most ambitious   of Diocletian;
       sculptures, the Ecstasy of St   the Aula
       Teresa (1646). The physical   Ottagona, the
       nature of St Teresa’s ecstasy    Crypta; Balbi;
       is apparent as she appears   and the Palazzo
       collapsed on a cloud with her   Massimo. In the
       mouth half open and eyes   latter, exhibits
       closed, struck by the arrow of a   dating from the  One of the finely detailed Quattro Aurighe mosaics on display at the
       smiling angel. Past and present   2nd century BC  Museo Nazionale Romano Palazzo Massimo
       ecclesiastical members of the   to the late 4th
       Venetian Cornaro family, who   century AD are displayed in a   mausoleum, built by Pope
       commissioned the chapel,    series of rooms over three floors.  Paschal II for his mother,
       sit in boxes as if watching and   Highlights include the Quattro   Theodora. Her square halo
       discussing the scene being   Aurighe mosaics from a villa in   shows that she was still alive
       played out in front of them.  northern Rome, the breath-  when the mosaic was created.
                           taking series of frescoes from
                           Livia’s summer villa, and the   r San Pietro in
                           famous statue of her husband,
                           the Emperor Augustus.  Vincoli
                                               Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli. Map 3
                           e Santa Prassede    C5. Tel 06 97 84 49 50. @ 75, 85, 117.
                                               q Colosseo. Open 8am–12:30pm,
                           Via Santa Prassede 9a. Map 4 D4.    3–7pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). 7
                           Tel 06 488 24 56. @ 16, 70, 71, 75,
                           714. q Vittorio Emanuele. Open   The church’s name means
                           7:30am–noon, 4–7pm daily. 7  “St Peter in Chains”, so called
                                               because it houses what are said
                           The church was founded    to be the chains with which
                           by Pope Paschal II in the 9th   St Peter was shackled in the
                           century and decorated by   Mamertine Prison (see p393).
                           Byzantine artists with the most   According to tradition, one set
                           important glittering mosaics in   of chains was sent to Constanti-
                           Rome. In the apse Christ stands   nople by Empress Eudoxia;
       Bernini’s Ecstasy of St Teresa (1646) in Santa   between Santa Prassede and   when it was returned to Rome
       Maria della Vittoria  her sister, dressed as Byzantine   some years later, it miraculously
                           empresses, among white-robed   fused with its partner.
       w Museo Nazionale   elders, lambs, feather-mop     San Pietro is now best known
                           palms and bright red poppies.
                                               for the Tomb of Julius II, commiss-
       Romano Palazzo      The Cappella di San Zeno is   ioned from Michelangelo by the
       Massimo             even lovelier, a jewel-box of a   pope in 1505. Much to the
                                               artist’s chagrin, Julius soon
       Palazzo Massimo, Largo di Villa Peretti 1   became more interested in the
       (1 of 5 sites). Map 4 D3. Tel 06 39 96   building of a new St Peter’s and
       77 00. @ all routes to Termini.         the tomb project was laid to
       q Repubblica. Open 9am–7:45pm
       Tue–Sun. & ticket valid for all sites.   one side. After the pope died in
       9 7 = 8                                 1513, Michelangelo resumed
                                               work on the tomb, but had only
       Founded in 1899, the Museo              completed the statues of the
       Nazionale Romano – one of the           Dying Slaves (now found in
       world’s leading museums of              Paris and Florence) and Moses
       Classical art – houses most of          when he was called away to
       the antiquities found in Rome           paint the The Last Judgment in
       since 1870, as well as important   9th-century mosaic, Santa Prassede  the Sistine Chapel.
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp573–6 and pp596–600


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     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2)
     Date 14th November 2012
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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