Page 515 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy
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ABRUZZ O ,  MOLISE  AND  PUGLIA      513


       carved sculpture – projecting           Duomo’s most notable external
       lions and bulls. The upper              features are its sculptures,
       façade displays a rose window           particularly surrounding the
       with Saracenic-style detailing.         rose window and the arched
         The main entrance, with               window below it, and the
       bronze doors by Oderisio                entrance portal with bronze
       da Beneventano (1119), is               doors (1175–9) by Barisano
       dominated by carved capitals            da Trani. The vigour of the
       and an architrave, both Byzantine       interior has been revealed
       in style. Within the Duomo is a         following restoration.
       Romanesque pulpit (1169).                 Next to the Duomo is the
                                               castle (1233–49) founded by
                                               Frederick II. Rebuilt in the 14th
       q Trani                                 and 15th centuries, it is a well-
                                               preserved edifice with one wall
       Bari. * 55,000. V @ n Piazza
       Sacra Regia Udienza II (0883 58 88 30).   dropping sheer into the sea.
       ( Tue. ∑ traniviva.it  The façade of Trani’s Duomo    The 15th-century Gothic-
                                               Renaissance Palazzo Caccetta,
       During the Middle Ages, this   church whose predecessor,    in Piazza Trieste, is a rare
       small, lively whitewashed port   the Ipogei di San Leucio, dates   survival. Nearby, on Via
       bustled with mercantile activity   from the 7th century. It is   Ognissanti, the 12th-century
       and was filled with merchants   dedicated to St Nicholas the   Romanesque church of the
       and traders from Genoa, Amalfi    Pilgrim, a little-remembered   Ognissanti, the chapel of the
       and Pisa. It reached its peak of   miracle worker (died 1094)    Knights Templar erected in the
       prosperity under Frederick II.  who was canonized as an act    courtyard of their hospital, is
         Today it is visited for its   of rivalry against the town of   notable for its original portico.
       Norman Duomo in Piazza   Bari, which possessed the   Other churches worth a visit are
       Duomo, built mainly from    bones of another, more   Santa Teresa and the monastery
       1159 to 1186 over an earlier   memorable St Nicholas. The   of La Colonna.
       w Castel del Monte  and he used his castles as   Octagonal   Graceful,
                           hunting lodges where he could   satellite tower  arched
       Località Andria, Bari. n Beni Culturali
       (0883 56 99 97). Open Apr–Sep:   retire from court life with his   windows
       10:15am–7:15pm daily; Oct–Mar:   falcons and books. Inside there
          9am–6:30pm daily. Closed   are two floors, each with eight
          1 Jan, 25 Dec. & ∑ castel   rib-vaulted rooms, some still
           delmonte.beniculturali.it  lined with marble. This, and
                           the marble
              Remote in the   mouldings on
              endless plains near   the entrance
               Ruvo di Puglia,   and the upper
               Castel del Monte,   floor, as well as
               built in the mid-  sophisticated lavatory
       Frederick II  13th century, out-  arrangements, mark
              classes every other   the castle
       castle associated with Frederick II.   as a palace.
       It is also one of the most
       sophisticated secular buildings
       of the Middle Ages. The emperor   Thick and
       had broad intellectual interests,   impenetrable walls


                                                      The main entrance portal
                                            Octagonal   is in the style of a Roman
                                            courtyard  triumphal arch.
                                         Floorplan of the Castle
                                         The building is a harmonious
                                         geometrical study with two storeys of
                                         eight rooms each. The reasons for such
                                         precise planning of this giant octagon
       Castel del Monte standing alone on the summit of a low hill  remain a mystery to this day.




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