Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Mallorca, Menorca & Ibiza

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE Major Towns
4At least two pages are devoted to each
This guide will help you to make the most Help with accommodation, restaurants, major town, with a detailed description
of the historic remains and local curiosities
of your visit to the Balearic Islands. The first shopping, entertainment and many that are worth seeing.
section, Introducing the Balearic Islands, recreational activities can be found in
locates the islands geographically and gives the Travellers’ Needs section, while the
an outline of their rich history and culture. Survival Guide provides useful tips on 112  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA CIUT ADELLA  113 A Visitors’ Checklist provides tourist and
transport information, including opening
Individual sections describe the main everything you need to know, from y Ciutadella Their distinctive façades reflect VISITORS’ CHECKLIST hours of tourist attractions, admission
the character of the town’s
A picturesque town with narrow, winding streets, handsome
Practical Information
noble mansions built during
palaces and a busy harbour, Ciutadella has always competed that period. Town Hall, Plaça des Born 15.
* 29,000. Tel 971 484 155.
historic sights and star attractions on each money and language to getting with Maó. In the days of Arab rule it was the island’s capital, E Claustre de Convent de ( Fri & Sat. _ Festa Sant Joan charges, and details of local festivals
and in 1558 it was invaded by the Turks, who killed many of its
(23–24 Jun). ∑ ajciutadella.org
Sant Agustí
inhabitants and carted off some 3,500 more to slave markets
C/ Seminari 7. Tel 971 481 297.
in Istanbul. Of its buildings, only the cathedral remained. Open 10:30am–1:30pm Tue–Sat. Transport and market days.
@ g
of the four populated archipelago islands. around and seeking medical care. Those who survived were determined to rebuild Ciutadella. The museum at the Convent de object of a folk cult. Standing
Most of the Menorcan aristocracy continued to make it their
Sant Agustí occupies the old
cloisters. Its collection of
home, even after Maó became the capital.
Neo-Gothic canopy above the Cathedral altar prehistoric and modern artifacts Ses Voltes’ arches line the walkway leading near the chapel is a column
includes a miniature statuette
topped with a bronze figure of
to the Cathedral
of a bull and a bronze casting of
the Lamb of God, the work of
century on the site of a mosque. a mermaid. It also has a collec- local artist Matias Quetglas.
Although it suffered fire tion of Catalonian paintings, of Menorcan aristocrat, Joan
damage, it escaped much of the and some sacred objects made Miquel Saura, stands the P Plaça Nova
destruction during the Turkish of precious metals, including Baroque Capella del Sant This small square is the site of
raid but was heavily remodelled chalices and Communion cups. Crist, built in 1667. Its fanciful the town’s most popular cafés
after 1558. During the Civil War Next to the cloisters is the façade is decorated with stone and bars. Ses Voltes, an arcarded
the Republican militia destroyed Baroque Església de Socors. carvings of fruit garlands and walkway which runs from here
most of its furnishings. R Sant Crist masks. The statue of Christ to the cathedral, is one of the
The Balearic Islands Island by Island One of the oldest parts of Near the bank building that above the high altar is said to main streets of the Old Town.
have dripped with sweat
The Moorish vaulted arches
the cathedral is the Gothic
was formerly the house
in 1661 and became the
south entrance that bears stone
that line the street hide a
and souvenir shops.
Plaça d’es Born, the town’s principal square carvings of weird creatures good selection of patisseries
and the heraldic crests of the
Menorcan knights and nobility.
In this guide, each of the islands has been given its own chapter. Exploring Ciutadella façades. The most imposing of The main Neo-Classical P Plaça Llibertat
Though there are few traces of
these are the Palau Salort and
entrance dates from the early
This charming square situated
Arab rule, Ciutadella has much to
the adjoining Palau de Torre-
1800s. Inside, light filters through
at the rear of the former
offer in the way of architecture. Saura. The latter is embellished the stained-glass window to Augustinian monastery is A town map shows the location of all
Within each chapter there is an introduction, a Regional Map, Gothic and Baroque churches its frontage proclaims the family P Església del Roser for food. Its two covered
by two handsome loggias and
well known to all who shop
Numerous opulent palaces and
bathe the nave in a gentle glow.
markets, selling fresh meat,
coat of arms above a forbidding
reveal just how successful the
restoration of Ciutadella in the wooden door that leads into a C/ Roser. Tel 971 383 563. Arcades of the covered market in Plaça Llibertat fish, fruit and vegetables, are the main sights within
17th and 18th centuries was. The
and a detailed listing of all the best sights. main square in town is Plaça d’es interior is, however, out of church includes a beautiful and provides tourist information on post
popular with the locals.
courtyard. The aristocratic
The façade of this small
bounds. The square also holds
Born, a characterful area close
17th-century Spanish Baroque-
to the Gothic cathedral. The
the Civil War, the church was
Museu Municipal holds a wide several appealing bars and style doorway. Destroyed during Ciutadella Museu Municipal
restaurants, perfect for a
1 Plaça d’es Born
collection of prehistoric artifacts relaxing break. rebuilt and is now used as a 2 Catedral
gathered from all over the island municipal exhibition hall. 3 Església del Roser Santa Clara offices and car parks.
and is well worth a visit. R Cathedral P Can Saura and Palau 4 Can Saura and Palau PORTAL DE SA FONT AVDA. DE LA CONSTITUCIÓ
Plaça de la Catedral. Tel 971 356 523.
DE LES MONGES
P Plaça d’es Born Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, Martorell Martorell PLAÇA C. DEL DORMIDOR
This is a former Arab military 10am–2:15pm Sat. & C/ Santissim. 5 Claustre de Convent de SANT JOAN C. DE SANT MI QUEL Plaça Naveta
Sant Agustí
Work on the cathedral began
These two adjacent palaces
Introduction a grand Neo-Classical style in towards the end of the 13th were built in the 17th century. 6 Sant Crist C. DE SA MURADETA S ANT CRISTOFOL CALLE DE C. DE SANTA CLARA Nova d’es Tudons Alf
drill ground and was rebuilt in
Plaça
THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA  95 the 19th century. It is said to be 7 Plaça Nova C. DE MAÓ
one of Spain’s most beautiful 8 Plaça Llibertat Catedral C. D. SAN T SEBASTIÁ C. DE J.M. QUADRADO Sant Crist Plaça C. DE SANT Terminal Bus
squares. At its centre stands
Llibertat
0 Museu Municipal
Palau de
MENORCA 1This section provides an obelisk marking Any de 9 Santa Clara Punta na Mari Harbour Torre-Saura D'ES BORN PLAÇA C. MAJOR D’ÉS BORN Església del Roser C.D.ESEMINARI Claustre de Convent ELOI La Ermita
la Desgràcia – the “Year of
q Plaça Alfons III
de Sant Joan
de Missa
Calamity”, when Turkish corsairs
w Plaça de s’Esplanada
de Sant Agustí
and Plaça dels Pins
is lined with historic buildings,
Menorca is the second largest of the Balearic Islands and has low-key, a brief overview invaded Ciutadella. The square e Harbour Ajuntament Palau Salort Can Saura &
Palau Martorell
family-friendly resorts and nearly as many beaches as Mallorca and Ibiza including the town hall, a PLAÇA BEN C.D.ST PERE D'ALCÁNT ARA SANT ISIDRE AVDA. JAUME I
former palace of the Moorish
combined. Situated furthest from the mainland, it is one of the quieter governor, as well as the late 0 metres 200 Castell de Sant Nicolau S’ESPLANADA EJAMI VIVES C.DE M. JOAN C. DEL NOU JULIOL PURISSIMA C. DE LA
islands and has escaped most of the side-effects of package holidays. and history of each 19th-century Teatre Municipal 0 yards 200 PLAÇA DELS PINS
Its small towns and villages appear to be havens of tranquillity, even at d’es Born and 19th-century Cafés spilling onto the pavements at Plaça Nova CALA BLANCA AVDA. DEL CAPIT À NEGRET E
palaces with Italian-style
Colour-coded thumb tabs the peak of the season. becoming a Republican stronghold island, describing its For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp150–51 and pp159–61 120  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA EIVISSA  121
For keys to symbols see back flap
Travelling across Menorca, the variations
identify pages devoted to in landscape are perhaps less obvious during the Spanish Civil War. history, geographical 1 Street by Street: Eivissa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The two oldest and largest towns
than those of Mallorca. The changes are
individual islands. more gradual, as red-soil and sandstone in Menorca are Maó and Ciutadella; features and cultural Attracted by the hilltop site and sheltered Practical Information
farmlands become pine-clad ravines, and both are full of historic buildings. The
* 49,500.
harbour, the Phoenicians founded Eivissa in the
small, sheltered coves alternate
island’s capital, Maó (often referred to
de Rey, 1, 971 301 900. ( Mon–
with steep, rocky shores. by its Spanish name of Mahón), is the mid-7th century BC. The Puig de Molins necropolis Tel 902 404 704. n Passeig Vara
dates from those days. Dalt Vila (Upper Town) is
Most of the Balearic Islands’ megalithic best natural harbour in this part of Sat (summer). _ Sant Joan
monuments from the Talayotic period are the Mediterranean. Ciutadella, Menorca’s characteristics as well as Street-by-Street Map the oldest remaining part of Eivissa and since (23 Jun), Sant Cristòbal (10 Jul),
1999 has been a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Nostra Senyora de les Neus
found on this island, including a good former capital, is situated on the Strengthened by fortifications begun by the (8 Aug), Sant Ciriac (5 Aug).
number of the cone-shaped towers northwestern end of the island and Emperor Charles V, it once guarded the entrance . Portal de ses Taules Transport
(talayots) which give the period its name. also has a natural harbour. When main tourist attractions. 5This gives a bird’s-eye view to the bay. Sa Penya, at the end of the harbour A broad paved drive leads from Sa Dalt Vila k Es Codola
As with the other islands, Menorca has travelling around Menorca you can under Dalt Vila, was once the fishermen’s quarter Penya to Portal de ses Taules – the The Upper Town, built on a hill, is best seen the southwest.
from the harbour shore where its strategic
main town gate.
had its share of visiting conquerors, appreciate the charm of the island’s and is still one of the more colourful parts of town. importance is obvious.
A locator map indicates including the Greeks, the Romans and, unhurried lifestyle. Its inhabitants are of a particularly interesting La Marina, stretching out along the waterfront, is Museu Arqueològic City walls
during medieval times, the Arabs who
the place to go for night-time entertainment.
attached to their traditions and
Museu d’Art
the position of the island defended the island until 1287. During customs – for instance, unlike the rest sightseeing area described Plaça del Sol’s shady square Contemporani
the 18th century, the island was ruled by
of Spain, they prefer local gin to wine.
the English and French in turn, before
Fiesta celebrations are particularly lively.
within the archipelago. in the section. looks out over the harbour and S A C A R R O S S A
is full of shops and cafés.
R O S A R I S A N T C A R L E S I G N A S I R I Q U E R G . B A L A N S A T
P E R E T U R
S A N T J O S E P J O A N R O M A N
138  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA FORMENTER A  139 C A R R E R D E P O N E N T
C O N Q U I S T A Quiet by day, Sa Carrossa is popular
Sa Carrossa
Exploring Formentera P L AÇ A D E L A with Eivissa’s gay visitors and is a hip
night-time hangout in the summer.
With few hotels and plenty of seclusion on offer, Formentera is a C AT E D R A L
paradise for those seeking a quiet holiday, free from distractions.
The coastline is stunning, with crystal-clear turquoise waters and PALMA
pristine beaches. The nightlife is calm and unhurried in the bars
and restaurants of Sant Francesc – the island’s tiny capital. Es MEDITERRANEAN
Pujols is the main resort. It, too, is small scale but it is a lively, fun SEA
place to be with some good bars and a couple of laid-back clubs. Locator Map A suggested route for a R O N D A D E J O A N B A P T I S T A C A L V I
For a little gentle sightseeing, the island has a handful of ancient Colourful traditional folk dancers in Maó accompanied by live music Capella de Sant Ciriac
defensive towers, pretty village churches and some prehistoric Brilliant blue waters at Cala Macarella, Menorca A mass is celebrated here
ruins in Ca Na Costa. walk is shown in red. each year in August to mark
the capture of the town by
Jaume I in 1235.
Platja Migjorn, the longest beach on Formentera
ILLA ESPALMADOR Getting There Castell Almudaina
There is no airport on Formentera,
s’Alga
but the island has good sea links
with Ibiza. Most services run Regional Map
Punta es between La Savina and Eivissa. The Plaça de la Vila Reial Curia
Trucadors The main square of The modest house of the . Cathedral
voyage takes about one hour (fast Dalt Vila is lined with former Royal Tribunal of The cathedral, dedicated to
ferries take 25 minutes) although
Platja de journey times can vary. Santa 2This shows the main shops, restaurants Key Justice, standing near the Our Lady of the Snows, was
ses Illetes and cafés to tempt cathedral, has a fine completed in 1592. It is Dalt
Lonely lighthouse at the end of the road on Cap de Barbària Platja de Llevant Eulària des Riu also has ferry links passing visitors. Suggested route Gothic doorway. Vila’s most impressive building.
with Formentera and with Dénia
Platja de during the summer. Buses from La 68  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA For hotels and restaurants in this region see p151 and pp161–3 M ALL ORC A  69
SES SALINES sa Roqueta Savina harbour go to various parts roads and topography
Sights at a Glance LA SAVINA Punta of the island, but the best way to
travel is by scooter or bicycle. The
1 Sant Francesc Estany CA NA COSTA Prima Quiet beach in Cala Saona, used by the guests of the only hotel main road cuts across the island, 0 La Granja VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
2 Cap de Barbària d’es Peix Estany connecting La Savina to Punta de of the island. It also
3 La Savina Punta de Pudent ES PUJOLS sa Ruda. There are also good roads This country house (finca) lies in a wooded valley, near Practical Information
4 Illa Espalmador sa Gavina leading to Es Pujols, Cala Saona Esporles. From the 13th to the 15th centuries it 2 km (1 mile) west from Esporles.
5 Ses Salines and Cap de Barbària. belonged to an order of Cistercian monks, and after this Tel 971 610 032.
6 Ca Na Costa Sant Ferran locates all the sights to the Fortuny family. The estate has survived almost Open 10am–7pm daily
7 Es Pujols SANT FRANCESC (summer), 10am–6pm (winter).
8 Platja Migjorn Ses Bardetes unchanged since the 18th century and is now a museum 0 & Art & craft exhibition and Stars point out the best
9 El Pilar de la Mola Cala Saona of folklore, full of antique furniture, ceramics and other horse dressage shows: Feb–Oct
Punta de sa Creu Wed & Fri 3–4:20pm.
Punta that are later described artifacts. Mouth-watering hams hang in the antique
Rasa Platja de kitchen, peacocks stroll around the beautiful garden, ∑ lagranja.net sights or exhibits that no
Torre d’es Català Tramuntana Cova d’es Fum
Platja and the local restaurant serves delicious Mallorcan
Es Mal Pas Migjorn cuisine. In the mornings it is quieter, and you can still
Es Caló in detail. see displays of horse dressage and local crafts. Dye-house . Salon visitor should miss.
EL PILAR This formed part of the domestic
PLATJA The formal rooms are situated on the north side. Next
MIGJORN DE LA MOLA quarters, most of which were to the salon are the games room and a small theatre.
situated in basements and cellars.
Mar y land Far de la Mola Park The estate, situated in From here, French windows open onto the garden.
Cova d’es Ram Punta des Far
0 kilometres 2 a valley, is surrounded
0 miles 2 by a park to the
Punta Rotja south and west. Its
CAP DE BARBÀRIA 110  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA MENORC A  111 landscaping includes
streams and waterfalls;
the house is almost
Key E Centro de Geologia de completely hidden
by a dense growth
Major road Menorca of trees.
. Garden
Catamarans with sails aloft on the beach in Es Pujols Minor road C/ Mallorca 2. Tel 971 374 505. t Western Coast of Menorca At the centre of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p151 and p163 For map symbols see back flap Open May–Sep: 10am–2pm & The region between Ciutadella and Cap d’Artutx is the garden is a
6–8pm Tue–Sun; Mar, Apr, Oct Star Sights
& Nov: 10am–2pm Tue–Sat. excellent for exploring. Whether walking, cycling or small fountain;
driving, you can enjoy the best of the island, including the escarpment
hides a grotto.
r Santa Galdana a nature reserve near Son Xoriguer, the Son Olivaret 6At least one page is
5 km (3 miles) south of Ferreries. megalithic remains and the churches and museums of
Ciutadella, the former capital of Menorca. Parts of this
The only way to get to unspoiled region can even be explored on horseback.
Detailed Information Santa Galdana is by car from Cala Morell Near the beach, at the dedicated to each major
5 Sa Caleta
Ferreries or on foot, along the
d’Algendar canyon. Situated
bay, is a former defence
Beach on Santa Galdana bay on a beautiful bay, the resort’s En Blanes Cala entrance of Cala Santadria
3All the important sights on e Ferreries Environs popularity is growing, and a Maó tower, Es Castellar. sight. Historic buildings
number of high­rise hotels
Tel 971 363 790 (Maó). ( About 6 km (4 miles) north of have popped up. Most of
Ferreries are the ruins of Santa
the other buildings are villas,
10:30am–1:30pm & 5:30pm–8:30pm
the islands are described Sat. _ Sant Bartomeu (23–25 Aug). Agueda castle. Not much set among the trees. The main 4 Cala Blanca Library are dissected to reveal
remains of this Moorish strong­
tourist attraction is the beach,
Situated next to the
This small beach is tucked away
with its white sand and
hold, but the view from the top
Ferreries is situated at the foot
of the S’Enclusa hill. At 142 m of the second­highest mountain turquoise water, sheltered between bungalows, villas and Torre-Saura Renaissance bedroom,
the library also served
individually. The address, (466 ft) above sea level, this in Menorca justifies the effort of from the wind by high cliffs a cluster of narrow streets. Santandria as the master’s study. courtyard. On its east side is their interiors, and parks
Corridor
Windows overlook the
Visited mainly by locals,
picturesque little town is
the 260­m (853­ft) climb.
and a pine forest.
it is uncrowded and
the highest settlement in
The strategic advantages of
It is worth taking a walk
Courtyard
Menorca. Its name derives the hill were well­known to the west from here to the has safe swimming. The house is arranged around a a row of smaller rooms, where
phone number, opening from the many blacksmiths Romans, who, in the 2nd charming Cala Macarella. 3 Son Olivaret Ciutadella is a small courtyard. Don’t miss the old things, an exhibition of toys. are illustrated to show
you can see, among other
6 Son Oleo
century, chose it as the
The adjacent Cala Macarelleta
On the outskirts of
(ferreries) who once worked
carriage that is parked in an
open garage. The courtyard has
around here. At the heart of
site for their first fortress.
has a nudist beach. Both
the village is the Plaça The Moors adapted beaches are well estab­ The two sets of megalithic beach, lying at the end a wide entrance gate to the east.
structures – Son Olivaret Nou
hours, admission charges, d’Espanya. Here, at a weekly the site to build lished and can be and Son Olivaret Vell – include of a long narrow bay. It KEY Exhibitions the main attractions.
is fairly quiet and used
Saturday market, you can buy
accessed by steps
a summer
both talayots and taulas.
mainly by the locals.
Visitors can see an equest-rian
leather goods as well as
residence for
carved into the rock.
produce brought in by local the Menorcan Further west is show with professionals training
how to get there and farmers, including vegetables, governor and Cala Turqueta, to explore the former 1 Restaurant horses (Wednesday and Friday
7 Ciutadella
afternoons from February to
Take at least one day
probably the
2 Gate to the park
improved the
fruit, cheese and honey. In
October), as well as local artisans
surrounding
Plaça l’Església is the parish
most beautiful
church of Sant Bartomeu fortifications. The bay on this part capital of Menorca. From 3 Main entrance, where the shop working in traditional crafts such
and café are located.
disabled access are given (1705) and the town hall. It fort was the last Remains of the Moorish of the coast. here you can make trips as shoe-making, basketwork
and embroidery.
north to Cala en Blanes
strong hold to
is also worth stepping into
Another beach,
or to Cala Morell.
the Centro de Geologia de
situated in a
surrender during
castle of Santa Agueda
Menorca, to see a selection of the Reconquest. charming cove For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp148–50 and pp155–9
for each sight. the island’s natural wonders. Ferreries is the centre of the east of Santa Galdana, is Cala
leather industry. Along the
Mitjana, which is a lovely spot,
road to Maó are several shops
though it can get busy during
selling Menorcan footwear. the summer months. 2 Cala en Bosch J
This harbour, situated in a
sheltered bay, has a landing
Gin in Menorca stage for pleasure boats.
One legacy of the 100­year rule of Menorca by the Next to the harbour there
British is the tradition of producing and drinking gin, is a shopping centre.
which was a popular drink with the many British Cut-outs show the sight in its
sailors stationed here. Unlike the rest of Spain, where Tips for Drivers
wine is the most popular tipple, Menorcans have
Boxes contain information about taken to gin in a big way. A wide selection of gin and Length: 16 km (10 miles). 0 km 0 miles 1 1 Son Xoriguer is also the Photographs illustrate the most surroundings and some parts
1 Son Xoriguer
other local liquors can be purchased at the 18th­
Stopping-off points: Stop off
century Xoriguer distillery, next to the landing stage
starting point for trips
for refreshments at one of the
in Maó (see p100). The gin produced by the Xoriguer
on horseback to the
events and people associated distillery is the most popular brand on the island and restaurants in Cala en Bosch Key Suggested route neighbouring reserve. interesting areas and the most of the interior.
or Ciutadella. A good place
is sold in canecas – ceramic bottles reminiscent of
The route leads past
for swimming is Cala Blanca,
the clay jugs that were once used by British sailors.
two beaches and then
with an area. Carrer Fred, close to the main square Gin from the distillery in Maó halfway along the route. Other road along the seashore. impressive sights within an
in Ferreries
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp150–51 and pp159–61 For keys to symbols see back flap attraction.
006-007_EW_Mallorca.indd 6 09/10/17 10:29 am 006-007_EW_Mallorca.indd 7 09/10/17 10:29 am