Page 214 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sicily

212  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ERICE: Pasticceria di mussels, for example, or a slice of
Maria Grammatico € the famous Favignana tuna, with
Café Road Map A2 sun-ripened fruit to follow. While
Via Vittorio Emanuele 14, 91016 it is a pleasant cycle ride to reach
Tel 0923-869 390 Closed Wed in the restaurant, there is a free mini-
Nov–Easter bus for guests coming from town.
This cake shop and café is famed
for its traditional marzipan fruits LÉVANZO: Paradiso €€
and pastries, all of them using Seafood Road Map A2
recipes Maria Grammatico learned Via Lungomare 6, 91023
as a girl in a convent. Best sampled Tel 0923-924 080 Closed Nov–Easter
in the garden café. Lovely sea views, a relaxed
atmosphere and simple fish, sea-
ERICE: Monte San Giuliano €€ food and pasta can be found at
Traditional Sicilian Road Map A2 this tiny island’s only restaurant. Try
Vicolo San Rocco 7, 91016 tuna polpette, spaghetti with pesto
Tel 0923-869 595 Closed Mon trapanese (with basil, tomatoes
The entrance is magical – up a and almonds) or catch of the day.
flight of ancient steps and through
a medieval arch. In summer you MARETTIMO: The warm interior of Monte San Giuliano
can sit outside among abundant Caffè Tramontana € in Erice
greenery and look out to sea Café Road Map A2
as you dine on Sicilian classics Via Scalo Vecchio, 91010 Closed MAZARA DEL VALLO:
such as smoked fish, marinated Nov–Easter Eyem Zemen €
anchovies and fish couscous. Enjoy a breakfast of almond, Tunisian Road Map A3
mulberry or watermelon granita, Via Porta Palermo 36, 91026
ERICE: La Pentolaccia €€ or come for an aperitivo Tel 3473-869 921 Closed Tue
Traditional Sicilian Road Map A2 accompanied by a plate of raw Enjoy genuine Tunisian food in a
Via G.F. Guarnotti 17, 91016 fish and watch the sun set over tiny no-frills place with a few tables
Tel 0923-869 099 Closed Tue the fishing harbour and castle. outside. Try brik (savoury tuna- or
Genial service and wonderful Lovely tabletops by ceramic artist shrimp-filled pastry parcels) and
home-made pasta are the high- Nino Perrucca. A lovely place to numerous varieties of couscous.
lights at this former monastery. Try while away the hours in Marettimo. Hot mint tea and Tunisian
ravioli stuffed with cernia (grouper) pastries for dessert.
dressed with cherry tomato, MARETTIMO: Il Veliero €€
swordfish, mint and prawns, or Seafood Road Map A2 SAN VITO LO CAPO:
pasta Nostromo with John Dory Corso Umberto, 91010 Al Ritrovo €€
roe, prawns, tomatoes and garlic. Tel 0923-923 274 Closed Nov–Easter Seafood Road Map B2
Dine on the atmospheric cane- Viale Cristofero Colombo 314, 91010
FAVIGNANA: covered Robinson Crusoe-esque Tel 0923-975 656 Closed Tue in
La Pasticceria FC € terrace right on the water. The Oct–May
Café Road Map A2 menu features traditional pasta The menu here features dishes
Via Garibaldi 28, 91023 dishes, and fish caught by the using traditional ingredients,
Tel 329-315 57 42 owner. Arrive early for a good such as smoked lampuga (mahi
Hidden in the centre of Favignana, table and call in advance to mahi) with broad bean purée, and
this cosy eatery sells an impressive reserve lobster. caponata (auber gine dish)
selection of Sicilian sweets. Their scented with chocolate and
arancini (stuffed rice balls) are MARSALA: Il Gallo e almonds. The frittura del Golfo
delicious, but the real speciality of L’Innamorata €€ (fried seafood) is excellent.
this place is the dessert selection. Osteria Road Map A3
Via S. Bilardello 18, 91025 SAN VITO LO CAPO: Syrah €€
FAVIGNANA: La Bettola €€ Tel 0923-195 44 46 Closed Tue Seafood Road Map B2
Trattoria Road Map A2 This friendly osteria, loyal to Via Savoia 5, 91010
Via Nicotera 47, 91023 the Slow Food movement, uses Tel 0923-972 028 Closed Tue
Tel 0923-921 988 Closed Mon in fresh local ingredients to great This amiable restaurant near the
Nov–Mar effect in dishes such as fresh beach is run by a young chef, his
Sit on the terrace of this pleasant, pasta with prawns and pistachio wife and his sister. The focus is on
informal restaurant and eat local pesto, or busiate with cherry fish, with creative but never over-
dishes such as fish couscous, tomatoes, almonds, basil and elaborate dishes such as polpettine
busiati pasta with a pesto of tuna, shavings of bottarga. of squid in squid ink, basil-scented
anchovies, tomato and basil, or lasagne with lobster, a salad of
fish grilled on lava stone. MARSALA: Le Lumie €€ the local fish vope (sea bream)
Seafood Road Map A3 and sardines, and an incredibly
FAVIGNANA: Il Giardino Contrada Fontanelle 178B, 91025 ample mixed antipasto.
delle Aloe €€€ Tel 0923-995 197 Closed Wed; Nov
Trattoria Road Map A2 The focus here is on seasonal fish, SAN VITO LO CAPO: Pocho €€€
Contrada Grotta Perciata, 91023 including the kinds Sicilians eat at Seafood Road Map B2
Tel 0923-187 068 Closed Nov–Mar home like capone (gurnard) and Località Isulidda, Contrada
Fresh fish from the island’s fleet spatola (scabbard fish), as well as Macari, 91010
is served in a garden of aloes more familiar species. Located Tel 0923-972 525 Closed Tue in
near the tremendous bay of Cala above Marsala, with fantastic views Oct–May
Rossa. The menu depends on the over the Mediterranean to the A stylish, welcoming place, set in
catch – local busiate pasta with Egadi Islands – especially at sunset. a gorgeous location overlooking
Key to Price Guide see page 210
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