Page 216 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sicily
P. 216

214      TR A VELLERS ’  NEEDS


        DK Choice          serves local meats, wild greens   author of a famous book on
                                               Sicilian cuisine, the restaurant was
                           and herbs, and home-grown
        LICATA: La Madia   €€€  vegetables and pulses. Tagliatelle   awarded a Michelin star in 2012.
        Gourmet   Road Map B5  with borage, wild fennel and   Using fresh, local ingredients (their
        Corso Re Capriata 22, 92027  fagioli badda (a violet and white   organic vegetables are grown on-
        Tel 0922-771 443   Closed Tue;    bean unique to the area) and   site) the chefs create reinterpre-
        Jul–Aug: Sun lunch; Sep–Jun:    roast suckling pig are typical.  tations of classic dishes..
        Sun dinner
        Many consider this   SCIACCA: Il Grappolo   €€  CHIARAMONTE GULFI:
        unassuming-looking restaurant   Osteria   Road Map B3  Majore   €€
        to be the best in Sicily. La Madia   Via Conzo 9A, 92019  Traditional Sicilian  Road Map E4/5
        has a passionate following,   Tel 0925-852 94   Closed Tue  Via Martiri Ungheresi, 12, 97012
        thanks to the virtuoso wit and   This simple, rather spartan osteria   Tel 0932-928 019   Closed Mon
        ceaseless inventions of chef   serves locally caught fish with   Founded in 1896, this venerable
        Pino Cuttaia, who wreaks twists,   home-grown vegetables. Try fresh   restaurant is dedicated to pork,
        turns and somersaults with   pasta with a sauce of red mullet   which appears as salami and
        meticulously sourced Sicilian   and bottarga (cured fish roe), or   ham, in pasta sauce or in risotto,
        produce. The restaurant’s name   spaghetti with squid ink, then   as well as rolled, roasted and
        (“the cupboard”) is intended to   follow with the fish of the day.   stuffed with sausage, cheese and
        suggest the packed store of   Fish couscous is available on   whole hard-boiled eggs as a
        delicacies that it is.  Wednesdays. A gluten free menu   falsomagro – a Sicilan speciality.
                           may be requested. Reservations
                           are advisable for a better table.  MARINA DI RAGUSA:
       PANTELLERIA:                            Da Serafino       €€
       Il Principe e il Pirata   €€€           Seafood     Road Map E5
       Osteria    Road Map A5                  Lungomare Doria, 97010
       Punta Karace, 91017  Southern Sicily    Tel 0932-239 522 Closed Oct–Easter
       Tel 0923-691 108                        Dining at this elegant beach
       Enjoy lunch or dinner at this   CALTAGIRONE: Il Locandiere  €€  restaurant – owned by Don
       charming place that offers   Seafood   Road Map D4  Serafino in Ragusa – is a summer
       incredible sea views from the   Via Luigi Sturgo 55, 95041  tradition in Marina. It has its own
       large terrace. Try the home-made   Tel 0933-582 92   private beach facilities. Come for
       ravioli with ricotta and the   This place serves excellent    simple but expertly prepared
       signature dessert, baci panteschi.   fish, with lots of little twists on   fresh fish.
                           traditional Sicilian dishes. The
       PETRALIA SOTTANA:    menu is largely dependent on   MODICA: Caffè Dell’Arte   €
       Petrae Lejum     €€  that day’s catch, but regular   Café   Road Map E5
       Trattoria   Road Map D3  favourites include fresh    Corso Umberto 1 114, 97015
       Corso Paolo Agliata 113, 90027  snapper baked with pistachio   Tel 0932-943 257   Closed Tue
       Tel 0921-641 908 Closed Thu in Aug;   and the fabulously tasty   Look no further for the best pastries
       Tue–Thu dinner in winter  “swordfish sausage”.  in Modica (including fabulous
       At this family-run trattoria local      impanata, with minced meat,
       produce is used in traditional   CALTAGIRONE: Coria   €€€  spices and cinnamon), along with
       mountain dishes such as gnocchi   Gourmet   Road Map D4  their own chocolate, served in a
       with wild boar sauce, or handmade  Via Infermeria 24, 95041  little café on the Corso with seats
       tagliatelle with parsley, garlic, peco-  Tel 0933-265 96   Closed Mon; Sun    inside and out. Children can have
       rino and pistachios from Bronte.   in Jul–Sep; Sun dinner in Oct–Jun  miniature cups of hot chocolate,
       Roasted or grilled meat follow.  Expect excellent Sicilian gourmet   sprinkled with cinnamon.
                           fare from the hands of two
       PIAZZA ARMERINA:    talented young chefs. Named   MODICA: La Locanda del
       Al Fogher       €€€  after Colonel Giuseppe Coria,   Colonello   €€
       Trattoria   Road Map D4                 Trattoria   Road Map E5
       Contrada Bellia, SS 117 (towards        Vico Biscari 6, 97015
       Aidone), 94015                          Tel 0932-752 423   Closed Wed
       Tel 0935-684 123 Closed Sun dinner,     This simple but slick little place
       Mon                                     is run by the Palazzo Failla hotel.
       Al Fogher defines rustic elegance       The mixed antipasto is a good
       and fine cooking. Try bavette of        way of sampling local specialities
       farro flour with a ragù of goat kid     such as a crisp scacce (savoury
       and wild chard sprinkled with           pastry), while legumes dominate
       primosale cheese, or boned quail        the primi in dishes such as maccu,
       stuffed with dandelion greens           a traditional broad bean soup,
       and sun-dried tomatoes. There           and pasta with chickpeas.
       is also a particularly interesting
       wine list.                               MODICA: Osteria dei
                                               Sapori Perduti    €€
       POLIZZI GENEROSA: Giardino              Trattoria   Road Map E5
       Donna Lavia      €€                     Corso Umberto 1 228–30, 97015
       Trattoria   Road Map D3                 Tel 0932-944 247   Closed Tue
       Contrada Donna Laura, 90028             in winter
       Tel 0921-551 104                        Discover traditional home
       This restaurant in a former Jesuit   An elegant setting for fine dining at    cooking, with a strong emphasis
       monastery (that also has rooms)   La Gazza Ladra in Modica (see p215)  on beans and pulses, and lots of
       Key to Price Guide see page 210
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