Page 57 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sicily
P. 57

EAST  P ALERMO      55

                                               6 San Francesco
                                               d’Assisi
                                               Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi. Map 2 D3.
                                               Tel 091-616 28 19. Open 9am–5pm
                                               Mon–Fri, 9–11am Sat
                                               This church has retained its
                                               medieval aspect despite the
                                               numerous alterations it has
                                               undergone. Built in the early
                                               13th century together with
                                               the Franciscan monastery, it
                                               was destroyed by Frederick II
                                               soon afterwards when he was
                                               excommunicated by the Pope.
                                               In 1255, work on the new
                                               church began, reaching
                                               completion only in 1277. The
                                               15th and particularly the
                                               16th centuries witnessed
       Stage backdrop in the Museo delle Marionette depicting knights errant  additions and alterations; for
                                               example, the wooden roof
       and Brussels. The second room   preserved its original furnishings.   was replaced and the
       has a collection of figures   Palazzo Mirto was built in the   presbytery was enlarged.
       belonging to puppeteers from   18th century on top of pre-    After the bombardments
       Palermo, Castellammare del   existing 15th- and 16th-century   suffered in 1943 the church
       Golfo, Alcamo and Partinico.   architectural structures. The   was restored to its original
       Among the stage scenery   palazzo passed from the   state. The austere façade has
       here is Charlemagne’s   aristocratic De Spuches   a large rose window and
       Council and Alcina’s      family to the equally   Gothic portal, while the interior
       Garden. The                 noble Filangeri,   boasts many noteworthy
       international section       who lived here   works of art, including sculpt-
       includes Chinese            until 1980, when   ures by Giacomo Serpotta and
       shadow theatre              the last heir   Antonello Gagini. The side
       puppets, Thai hun           donated it to    chapels house funerary stelae
       krabok, Vietnamese,        the Region of Sicily.   and sarcophagi.
       Burmese and                An 18th-century     The fourth chapel in the left-
       Rajasthan marionettes,    portal with the coat   hand aisle is the Cappella
       and Javanese wayang      of arms of the Filangeri   Mastrantonio, with one of the
       figures, as well as   Coat of arms of   family leads to the   first Renaissance works in Sicily,
       animated figures from   Palazzo Mirto  courtyard, where a   the portal by Francesco Laurana.
       Oceania and Africa. The   majestic marble   Behind the high altar is a
       theatre of puppeteer Gaspare   stairway takes you to the piano   wooden choir built in 1520, as
       Canino di Alcamo has backcloths   nobile. Here there is a series of   well as 17th-century paintings
       showing the feats of Orlando;   elegantly furnished drawing   of the Resurrection, Ascension
       most productions of the Opera   rooms. The first of these is the   and Mission.
       dei Pupi (puppet opera) featured   Sala degli Arazzi (Tapestry
       the exploits of Charlemagne’s   Hall), with mythological
       knights errant.     scenes painted by
         The museum also organizes   Giuseppe Velasco in
       the Festival di Morgana (see p45),   1804, then there is the
       which features puppet operas   “Chinese” room, and
       from around the world, all   lastly the so-called
       performed in Italian.  Baldachin Salon with late
                           18th-century allegorical
                           frescoes. The furniture
       5 Palazzo Mirto     and other furnishings
                           date from the 18th and
       Via Merlo 2. Map 2 D3. Tel 091-616    19th centuries. Some
       75 41. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat,    rooms overlook a court-
       9am–1pm Sun & hols. Closed Mon &
                           yard garden dominated
       This is a splendid example of    by a theatrical Rococo
       a centuries-old nobleman’s   fountain flanked by    The drawing rooms in Palazzo Mirto, still with their
       mansion that has miraculously   two aviaries.  original furniture




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