Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sicily

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide will help you to get the most out describe the most important sights, with
of your visit to Sicily. It provides detailed maps, floor plans, photographs and
practical information and expert recommen- detailed illustrations. Restaurant and
dations. Introducing Sicily maps the island hotel recommendations are described
and sets Sicily in its historic, artistic, geo- in Travellers’ Needs and the Survival Guide
graphical and cultural context. Palermo has tips on everything from transport to
Area by Area and the four regional sections hiring a surfboard.

P ALERMO AREA B Y AREA  63
Palermo Area by Area WEST PALERMO
The quarters south of Via Roma lie on the good shops and hotels. Between the All pages relating to Palermo have
slopes occupied by the city’s original
Palazzo dei Normanni and Via Maqueda
The historic centre of the city Phoenician settlement, which was enlarged is the Albergheria quarter, the home of red thumb tabs.
merchants and craftsmen in the Middle
during the Roman era. In the 11th century
the Arabs built a castle on the site where
Ages. It is still enliv ened by the daily
has been divided into two areas, the Palazzo dei Normanni now stands. The market, the Mercato Ballarò, which is less
Arabic Al Qasar (the castle) was used as
famous but more authentic than the
the name of the quarter and the street that
Vucciria market. The many oratories of the
East and West, each with its own led to the castle, the present-day Corso medieval brotherhoods demonstrate the
Vittorio Emanuele, known as “Cassaro” to
wealth and industry of the inhabitants.
In the first half of the 20th century parts
the people of Palermo. The area contains
of the area were demolished, and the 1943
many impressive buildings and churches,
chapter. Further Afield covers including Palermo’s Cathedral, as well as air raids dealt an additional blow. A locator map shows where
peripheral sights. All sights Sights at a Glance q Sant’Orsola you are in relation to other
Streets and Squares
w Chiesa del Carmine
1 Piazza della Vittoria
areas of the city centre.
6 Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Historic Buildings
are numbered and plotted 8 Quattro Canti 2 Palazzo dei Normanni See also Street Finder
7 Museo Regionale d’Arte
Churches
Moderna E Contempor -
3 Cappella Palatina (pp66–7)
anea Belmonte-Riso
on the Area Map. The detailed 4 San Giovanni degli Eremiti e Teatro Massimo map 1
5 Cathedral (pp70–71)
9 San Giuseppe dei Teatini
0 Chiesa del Gesù and Casa
Professa PIAZZA
information for each sight is VIA VOLTURNO VERDI Area map For easy
VIA SCARLATI
PIAZZA VITTORIO
easy to locate as it follows the EMANUELE ORLANDO VIA VIA VIA MURA DI SAN VITO VIA SANT' AGOSTINO VIA ROSSINI V I A M A Q U E D A 0 metres 0 yards 350 350 1reference, all the major
VIA SAN GREGORIO
numerical order on the map. PIAZZA DEL VIA DEL NOVIZIATO VIA D. CAPPUCCINELLE CAPO PIAZZA DEL V I A C A N D E L A I CANDELAI DICESA DEI sights are numbered and
VIA PANNERIA
NOVIZIATO
MONTE
VIA JUDICA
PAGANO PORTA CARINI
GIOIAMIA VIA V I A D E L C E L S O RAGUSI VICOLO located on this map.
C O R S O V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E VIA DELL'UNIVERSITÀ V I A M
VIA PAPRIETO
PAPRIETO PIAZZA VIA G. GIOENI VIA BEATI PAOLI MONTEVERGINI VIA PIAZZA BOLOGNI
VIA MATTEO BONELLO
PIAZZA
S. CHIARA
CORSO ALBERTO AMEDEO
PIAZZA DELLA PIAZZA SAN VIA DEI BISCOTTARI VIA PONTICELLO
PIAZZA PIAZZA DEL VITTORIA GIOVANNI
LA PORTA PARLAMENTO VIA PORTA DI CASTRO PIAZZA DEL VIA DEL BOSCO A Q U E D A
CARMINE
V I A A L B E R G H E R I A
Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s INDIPENDENZA PIAZZA VIA DEL BASTIONE VIA ANTONIO MONGITORE VIA G. GRASSO
VIA DELLE PERGOLE
D'ORLEANS PIAZZA VIA GENERALE CADORNA VIA L. SICILIANO VILLANUEVA VIA M. MIGNOSI VIA MURA S. AGATA
sights by category: Churches and Palazzo Reale- Orleans CORSO RE RUGERRO PIAZZA PORTA ALBERGHERIA S. AGATA PORTA CORSO TUKORI
PARCO
D'ORLEANS
VIA FORIANINI
MONTALTO
VIA DEI BENEDETTINI
Cathedrals, Historic Buildings, Museums, C O R S O T U K O R I
Streets and Squares, Parks and Gardens. Detail of the Cathedral, with its variety of architectural styles For keys to map symbols see back flap
64  P ALERMO AREA B Y AREA WEST P ALERMO  65
Street-by-Street: Around Palazzo Arcivescovile and
Museo Diocesano
Piazza della Vittoria The monument
Piazza della Vittoria, opposite the Palazzo dei Normanni, to Philip V, in the PALERMO WEST PALERMO EAST
is one of the city’s major squares. Since the time of the middle of Piazza della Piazza Sett’Angeli
Roman castrum superius (military camp), the Arab Al Vittoria, was built of
marble in 1662.
Qasar and the Norman Palace, this area has been the
military, political and administrative heart of Sicily, Locator Map
and religious prestige was added in the 12th century Villa Bonanno See Street Finder map 1
Street-by-Street Map when the Cathedral was built nearby. In the 17th and The former hospital
18th centuries the square was the venue for public
2This gives a bird’s-eye festivities. It became a public garden in the early 1900s, of San Giacomo
surrounded by important monuments such as Porta
Nuova, Palazzo Sclafani and Palazzo Arcivescovile.
view of the key areas Porta Nuova was built in
1569 to commemorate
in each chapter. Charles V’s arrival in
Palermo in 1535.
C O R S O V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E The history of the city can be traced
5 . Cathedral
from the different architectural styles.
2 Palazzo dei Normanni P I A Z Z A D E L L A V I T T O R I A
This has always been the palace of the city’s
G I O V A N N
D E C O L L A T O
rulers. Traces of the original Arab-Norman
architecture can still be seen on the exterior. P I A Z Z A S A N I
A suggested route for a P I A Z Z A
walk is shown in red. D E L P A R L A M E N T O 0 metres 100 100
0yards
3 . Cappella
Palatina
Founded in 1130 V I A D E L B A S T I O N E Key
by the Norman
king Roger II, the Suggested route
chapel boasts an
extraordinary cycle Palazzo Sclafani
of mosaics.
76  P ALERMO AREA B Y AREA  P ALERMO AREA B Y AREA FUR FUR THER AFIELD  77THER AFIELD  77
76
4 . San Giovanni degli Eremiti 1 Piazza della Vittoria
This huge square is
This church, surrounded by a
it seems, the king himself had a , the king himself had a
M
Most of the park is occupied ost of the park is occupied it seems luxuriant garden, is one of the most entirely occupied by the
hand in the palace
b
by sports facilities (tennis y sports facilities (tennis hand in the palace’s Oriental ’s Oriental important monuments in Palermo, palm trees and well-
cour
courts, pools, a stadium and ts, pools, a stadium and ar architecture, which was much in chitecture, which was much in partly because of its unique Arab- tended gardens around
racetrack). On the edge of the
racetrack). On the edge of the v vogue at the time. Ferdinand I ogue at the time. Ferdinand I Norman architecture. Villa Bonanno.
par park there are many villas built k there are many villas built ent entertained such illustrious ertained such illustrious For hotels and restaurants see pp202–205 and pp210–217
guests as Horatio Nelson and
in the 18th centur
in the 18th century as summer y as summer guests as Horatio Nelson and
r residences for the Sicilian esidences for the Sicilian his wif
his wife, Lady Hamilton, here.e, Lady Hamilton, here.

nobilit nobility. The most interesting y. The most interesting The Casina Cinese was the The Casina Cinese was the
first example of eclectic tic
ar are the Villa Sofia, now a e the Villa Sofia, now a first example of eclec
hospital; ar architecture in Palermo, a chitecture in Palermo, a
hospital; Villa Castelnuovo, an Villa Castelnuovo, an
ag agricultural institute; and Villa ricultural institute; and Villa combination of Chinese
combination of Chinese
decorativ
N Niscemi, mentioned in di iscemi, mentioned in di decorative motifs and Gothic, e motifs and Gothic,
E
Lampedusa Egyptian and Arab elements. gyptian and Arab elements.
Lampedusa’s novel The Leopard ’s novel The Leopard
(see p27), now the venue for , now the venue for O Overall it is an extravagant work, verall it is an extravagant work,
(see p27)
cultural activities.tivities.
T The lively fishing harbour at Mondello, filled with boatshe lively fishing harbour at Mondello, filled with boats cultural ac ex exemplified by details such as emplified by details such as Stars indicate the sights that no
the r
the repetition of bells in the epetition of bells in the
shape of a pagoda on the fence, ence,
shape of a pagoda on the f
1 1 Mondello Mondello cit city dwellers come to escape y dwellers come to escape the cor
the cornices and the roof. The nices and the roof. The
from the heat and dine in one om the heat and dine in one interior is equally flamboyant: erior is equally flamboyant:
fr
int
10 k 10 km (6 miles) north of Palermo.m (6 miles) north of Palermo.
of the many fish and seafood y fish and seafood Neo-Classical stuccoes and -Classical stuccoes and A Aerial view of the Neo-Classical Politeamaerial view of the Neo-Classical Politeama visitor should miss.
of the man
Neo
A fa
paintings ar
A favourite with Palermitans, vourite with Palermitans, r restaurants lining the road in estaurants lining the road in paintings are combined with e combined with
the old fishing quar
puppets
Mondello beach lies a short ondello beach lies a short the old fishing quarter.ter. 18th- 18th-century chinoiserie, century chinoiserie, f founded in honour of the ounded in honour of the puppets, which are traditional , which are traditional
M
characters in Sicilian puppet ters in Sicilian puppet
scenes of Chinese life and e and
distance fr scenes of Chinese lif P Palermian ethnographer alermian ethnographer charac
distance from the centre of the om the centre of the
town, between the rocky own, between the rocky 2 Parco della Parco della Pompeian painting. The ompeian painting. The Giuseppe Pitré, who wrote the itré, who wrote the opera, as w
t
opera, as well as playbills ell as playbills
Giuseppe P
P
first bilingual I
2
promontories of Monte omontories of Monte building is undergoing an going an first bilingual Italian-Sicilian talian-Sicilian decorated with scenes taken ed with scenes taken
decorat
pr
building is under
F
ex
P Pellegrino and Monte Gallo.ellegrino and Monte Gallo. Favorita avorita extensive renovation to bring it tensive renovation to bring it dic dictionary; the library houses tionary; the library houses fr from the puppeteers’ works. The om the puppeteers’ works. The
Mondello was once a small Mondello was once a small Viale Ercole, Viale Diana.iale Ercole, Viale Diana. back t o over 26,000 volumes. Rooms ver 26,000 volumes. Rooms Sala dei P
back to its original splendour.o its original splendour.
Sala dei Presepi features more resepi features more
V
village of tuna fisher
than 300 nativity scenes, some y scenes, some
village of tuna fishermen, men, f feature local embroidery and eature local embroidery and than 300 nativit
centr centred around a 15th-century ed around a 15th-century T This public park, unfortunately his public park, unfortunately 4 Museo Museo w weaving, along with sections eaving, along with sections b by the 18th-century artist y the 18th-century artist
4
Giocanni M
on traditional costumes and
squar square tower, but in the last 100 e tower, but in the last 100 in a stat on traditional costumes and Giocanni Matera.atera.
in a state of neglect, extends for e of neglect, extends for
years it has become a residential almost 3 km (2 miles) behind almost 3 km (2 miles) behind
T
rugs
years it has become a residential The extravagant façade of the he extravagant façade of the E Etnografico Pitré tnografico Pitré rugs. A great many display . A great many display
ar area immersed in greenery. ea immersed in greenery. M Monte Pellegrino. It was onte Pellegrino. It was C Casina Cineseasina Cinese V Viale Duca degli Abruzzi. Tel 091-616 iale Duca degli Abruzzi. Tel 091-616 cases contain ceramics and 5 Teatro Politeama Teatro
cases contain ceramics and
or
5
Mondello’s golden age was at ondello’s golden age was at originally a hunting reserve, iginally a hunting reserve, 01 24. 01 24. Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun.Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun. glasswar
glassware, as well as a fine e, as well as a fine
M
3
but K
the turn of the 19th century, n of the 19th century,
the tur but King Ferdinand I (see p33) ing Ferdinand I (see p33) 3 Casina Cinese Casina Cinese collection of oil lamps. A further Garibaldi Garibaldi
collection of oil lamps. A further
when a k turned it into a garden in 1799, ned it into a garden in 1799, V Viale Duca degli Abruzzi, Parco della iale Duca degli Abruzzi, Parco della The Ethnographic Museum, he Ethnographic Museum, sec section displays traditional tion displays traditional Piazza
tur
when a kind of garden-city was ind of garden-city was
T
P
f founded and well-to-do ounded and well-to-do when he fled to Palermo with o Palermo with F Favorita. Tel 091-707 14 08. avorita. Tel 091-707 14 08. next to the Casina Cinese, has t to the Casina Cinese, has Sicilian car Tel 091-607 25 11 (box office 091-607
nex
Sicilian carts, late 19th-century ts, late 19th-century
when he fled t
Te
a collection of about 4,000 tion of about 4,000
glass painting, and carts and , and carts and
P Palermitans had lovely Art alermitans had lovely Art his retinue after being forced etinue after being forced Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm a collec glass painting 25 32). 25 32).
his r
Open
Nouveau villas built here. The eau villas built here. The into exile from Naples by o exile from Naples by Sun & public hols.. exhibits floats dedicated to Santa ed to Santa
Nouv
int
floats dedicat
exhibits, documenting Sicilian , documenting Sicilian
Sun & public hols
Kursaal bathhouse, built on piles life, traditions and folk art. e, traditions and folk art. R Rosalia. The Sala del Teatrino osalia. The Sala del Teatrino T This historic theatre is in the his historic theatre is in the
Kursaal bathhouse, built on piles Napoleon’s troops. The park has Napoleon’s troops. The park has
lif
in the sea a few yards from the ew yards from the
in the sea a f t two large roads. Viale Diana, wo large roads. Viale Diana, At the edge of the Parco della t the edge of the Parco della The museum was he museum was dell dell’ Opera dei Pupi has on ’ Opera dei Pupi has on heart of modern-day Palermo, t of modern
A
hear
T
beach, also dates from this es from this which goes to Mondello, is o Mondello, is F Favorita, the former hunting avorita, the former hunting display a number of rod y a number of rod at the cor
beach, also dat
which goes t
displa
at the corner of Via Ruggero ner of Via Ruggero
period. Designed by Rudolph iod. Designed by Rudolph int intersected by Viale d’Ercole, at ersected by Viale d’Ercole, at g grounds of the Bourbons, is the rounds of the Bourbons, is the S Settimo and tree-lined Viale ettimo and tree-lined Viale
per
“
della Libertà, the city’s “outdoor tà, the city’s “outdoor
Stualket in the Art Nouveau et in the Art Nouveau the end of which is a mar “little Chinese palace”, the little Chinese palace”, the della Liber
Stualk
the end of which is a marble ble
st style, it is decorated with yle, it is decorated with f fountain with a statue of ountain with a statue of summer r living r Detailed Information The sights
summer residence of Ferdinand esidence of Ferdinand
living room”. Giuseppe Damiani oom”. Giuseppe Damiani
I and his wife Maria Carolina e Maria Carolina
Alme
Her
mythological figures and sea ythological figures and sea Hercules, a copy of the famous cules, a copy of the famous I and his wif Almeyda designed the Neo-yda designed the Neo-
m
F
Classical building in 1867–74.
monst
monsters. Mondello is a popular ers. Mondello is a popular Farnese Hercules that the king arnese Hercules that the king during their period of exile in ing their period of exile in Classical building in 1867–74.
dur
town, perhaps even more so on own, perhaps even more so on had wanted for himself in his ed for himself in his Sicily. It was designed by . It was designed by T The theatre’s semi-circular he theatre’s semi-circular 3in Palermo are described
t
Sicily
had want
summer e court at Naples.t at Naples. V Venanzio Marvuglia in 1799 and, enanzio Marvuglia in 1799 and, shape r
shape resembles a horseshoe, esembles a horseshoe,
cour
summer evenings, when the venings, when the
while the columns in the two wo
while the columns in the t
tiers of colonnades are in the e in the
tiers of colonnades ar
S Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia on Monte Pellegrinoanctuary of Santa Rosalia on Monte Pellegrino
Doric and Ionian orders. The oric and Ionian orders. The individually. Addresses, telephone
D
On M On Monte Pellegrino, which dominates the city, is onte Pellegrino, which dominates the city, is exterior is frescoed in Pompeii terior is frescoed in Pompeii
ex
the Sanc
the Sanctuary dedicated to Santa Rosalia, the patron tuary dedicated to Santa Rosalia, the patron r red and gold, in tune with the ed and gold, in tune with the
Neo
saint of P Neo-Classical movement at the -Classical movement at the
saint of Palermo. The daughter of the Duke of Sinibaldo, alermo. The daughter of the Duke of Sinibaldo,
R
Rosalia decided to lead the life of a hermit in a cave. osalia decided to lead the life of a hermit in a cave. time. The façade is a triumphal . The façade is a triumphal numbers, opening hours and
time
F Five centuries after her death in 1166, the discovery ive centuries after her death in 1166, the discovery arch whose attic level is ch whose attic level is
ar
of her r
of her remains coincided exactly with the end of emains coincided exactly with the end of decorated with sculpture ed with sculpture
decorat
the plague that had struck the city. Since then the y. Since then the
the plague that had struck the cit crowned by a chariot. While owned by a chariot. While
cr
saint has been venerated twice a year: on 11–15 July enerated twice a year: on 11–15 July
saint has been v the the Teatro Massimo was closed, Teatro Massimo was closed, admission charges are also
a tr
a triumphal float with her remains is taken in a iumphal float with her remains is taken in a the P the Politeama was the centre oliteama was the centre
pr procession through the city, and on 4 September ocession through the city, and on 4 September
the same pr
the same procession goes to the Sanctuary. This was ocession goes to the Sanctuary. This was of the cit
of the city’s cultural life. It still y’s cultural life. It still
pla
built in 1625; it consists of a convent and the saint’s vent and the saint’s
P Period print of Santa Rosalia’s floateriod print of Santa Rosalia’s float built in 1625; it consists of a con plays host to some operatic ys host to some operatic provided. Map references refer
and theatrical performances ical performances
ca
cave, filled with ex-voto offerings.ve, filled with ex-voto offerings.
and theatr
E
Entrance to the Museo Pitré, devoted to Sicilian folk art and customsntrance to the Museo Pitré, devoted to Sicilian folk art and customs ( (Oct–Jun).Oct–Jun).
to the Street Finder on pp82–3.
F
For hotels and restaurants see pp202–205 and pp210–217or hotels and restaurants see pp202–205 and pp210–217
006-007_EW_Sicily.indd 6 11/3/16 2:06 PM