Page 164 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

162  FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES

u Les Invalides
q La Tour-Maubourg, Varenne.
W Invalides. @ 28, 63, 69 & many
others. Hôtel des Invalides: Tel 08-10
11 33 99. Open daily. Closed Jan 1,
May 1, Nov 1, Dec 25. St-Louis-des-
Invalides, Museums & Dôme Church:
Open daily (see website for times).
Closed Jan 1, May 1, Jun 17, Nov 1,
Dec 25, first Mon of each month
(except Jul & Aug). & 8 7
restricted. ∑ musee–armee.fr

This vast ensemble of
monumental buildings is one of
the most impressive architectural
Interior of the Musée d’Orsay, retaining its original station architecture sights in Paris. The imposing
Hôtel des Invalides, from which
t Musée d’Orsay display of Art Nouveau, the area takes its name, was
including Lalique glassware. commissioned by Louis XIV in
Rue de la Légion d’Honneur. Tel 01-40
49 49 78. q Solférino. W Musée Impressionist works on the 1671 for his wounded and
d’Orsay. @ 24, 68, 69, 84 & many upper level include Renoir’s home less veterans. Designed by
others. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Bal du Moulin de la Galette Libéral Bruand, it was completed
May 1, Dec 25. & 8 7 (1876). Matisse’s Luxe, Calme et in 1676 by Jules Hardouin-
∑ musee-orsay.fr Volupté is a highlight of the Mansart. Nearly 6,000 soldiers
post-1900 collection. once resided here; today, there
Originally built as a railroad are fewer than 100. Behind the
terminus in the heart of Paris, Hôtel’s harmonious Classical
Victor Laloux’s superb building, y Musée Rodin facade – a masterpiece of French
completed in 1900, narrowly 79 Rue de Varenne. Tel 01-44 18 61 10. 17th-century architecture – are
avoided demolition in the q Varenne. W Invalides. @ 69, 82, several museums.
1970s. In 1986, it reopened as 87, 92. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, The Musée de l’Armée is one
the Musée d’Orsay, with much May 1, Dec 25. & 7 restricted. of the most comprehensive
of the original architecture ∑ musee-rodin.fr museums of military history in
preserved. The majority of the the world, with exhibits covering
exhibits are paintings and Auguste Rodin (1840–1917), all periods from the Stone Age
sculptures dating from between widely regarded as one of to World War II. Among items on
1848 and 1914, but there are France’s greatest sculptors, lived display are François I’s ivory
also displays of furniture, the and worked here in the hunting horns and a
decorative arts, and cinema. Hôtel Biron, an elegant selection of arms from
The social, political, and 18th-century mansion, China, Japan, and India.
technological context in from 1908 until his The Musée de
which these diverse visual arts death. In return for a l’Ordre de la Libération
were created is explained. state-owned flat and (closed until mid-2015)
Paintings from before 1870 studio, Rodin left his was set up to honor
are on the ground floor, work to the nation, feats of heroism
presided over by Thomas and it is now during World War II,
Couture’s massive Romans in the exhibited here. while the Musée des
Age of Decadence (1847). Some of his most Plans-Reliefs has an
Neoclassical masterpieces, such celebrated extensive collection
as Ingres’ La Source, hang near sculptures are of detailed models
Romantic works like Delacroix’s on display in of French forts and
turbulent Tiger Hunt (1854), and the attractive fortified towns,
canvases by Degas and Manet, garden and Rodin’s The Kiss (1886) at considered top
including the latter’s Le Déjeuner include The the Musée Rodin secret until as late
sur l’Herbe and Olympia (1863). Burghers of as the 1950s.
The museum’s central aisle Calais, The Thinker, St-Louis-des-Invalides, the
overflows with sculpture, from The Gates of Hell, and Balzac. chapel of the Hôtel des Invalides,
Daumier’s satirical busts of The indoor exhibits are is also known as the “soldiers’
members of parliament to arranged in chronological church.” It was built between
Carpeaux’s exuberant The Dance order, span ning the whole 1679 and 1708 by Jules Hardouin-
(1868). Decorative arts and of Rodin’s career. Major works Mansart, to Bruand’s design. The
architecture are on the middle in the collection include stark, Classical interior is designed
level, where there is also a The Kiss and Eve. in the shape of a Greek cross and
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–8 and pp209–11

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