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176      FR ANCE  AND   THE  L OW  C OUNTRIES


       The Loire Valley                        0 Poitiers
                                               Vienne. * 85,000. k £ @ n 45
       Renowned for its sumptuous châteaux, the relics of royal days   Place Charles de Gaulle (05-49 41 21
       gone by, the glorious valley of the Loire is rich in both history   24). ( Tue–Sun. ∑ ot-poitiers.fr
       and architecture. As the Loire runs through the heart of
       France, so the region embodies the essence of the French    Three of the greatest battles in
                                               French history were fought
       way of life. Its sophisticated cities, luxuriant landscape, and   around Poitiers, the most
       magnificent food and wine add up to a modern paradise. The   famous in 732 when Charles
       Loire has long been des cribed as exemplifying la douceur de   Martel halted the Arab invasion.
       vivre: it combines a leisurely pace of life, a mild climate, and   Today, the town is a dynamic
       the gentle ways of its inhabitants. The overall impression is   regional capital with a rich
                                               architectural heritage.
       one of an unostentatious taste for the good things in life.
                                                 Behind the Renaissance
                                               facade of the Palais de Justice
                                               is the 12th-century great hall
                                               of the palace of Henry II and
                                               Richard the Lionheart. This is
                                               thought to have been the scene
                                               of Joan of Arc’s examination by
                                               a council of theologians in 1429.
                                                 Notre-Dame-la-Grande,
                                               whose west front is covered with
                                               superb 12th-century Poitevin
                                               sculpture, stands out among
                                               the city’s churches, as does the
                                               4th-century Baptistère St-Jean,
                                               one of the oldest Christian
                                               buildings in France. The latter
                                               contains Romanesque frescoes.
                                                 The Musée Sainte-Croix has
                                               archaeological exhibits, as well
                                               as paintings and sculpture.
                                               Environs
                                               Just 7 km (4.5 miles) north
       Tomb of François II in Cathédrale St-Pierre et St-Paul, Nantes  of Poitiers, Futuroscope is
                                               a theme park dedicated to
       9 Nantes            was the birthplace of Anne of   state-of-the-art visual techno-
                           Brittany, who irrevocably joined   logy, including the largest
       Loire-Atlantique. * 270,000.
       k £ @ n 9 Rue des Etats    her fiercely independent duchy   cinema screen in Europe.
       (08-92 46 40 44). ( Tue–Sun.    to France by her successive
       ∑ nantes-tourisme.com  marriages to Charles VIII and   E Futuroscope
                           Louis XII. A smaller royal lodging   Jaunay-Clan. Tel 05-49 49 11 12. Open
       The ancient port of Nantes was   lies to the west of it. It was here,   check website. Closed Jan–mid-Feb.
       the ducal capital of Brittany for   in Brittany’s Catholic bastion, that   & 7 ∑ futuroscope.com
       600 years, but is now considered   Henri IV signed the 1598 Edict
       a part of the Pays de la Loire.   of Nantes, which granted all
       Many of its fine 18th- and 19th-   Protestants freedom of worship.
       century buildings were built on     The Musée des Beaux-Arts
       profits from the slave trade.   has a splendid array of pain tings
       Modern-day Nantes is a lively   representing key movements
       city, with good museums, chic   from the 15th to the 20th century.
       bars and stores, and open spaces.  Packed with mementos, books,
         The Cathédrale St-Pierre et   and maps, the Musée Jules
       St-Paul was begun in 1434, but   Verne is dedica ted to the life and
       not completed until 1893. It is   works of the writer (1828–1905).
       notable for its sculpted Gothic
       portals and Renaissance tomb   E Musée des Beaux-Arts
       of François II (1435–88), the last   10 Rue Georges Clemenceau. Tel 02-
       duke of Brittany.   51 17 45 00. Open 10am–6pm Wed–
         The Château des Ducs de   Mon (to 8pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
       Bretagne, now with a museum   Easter Mon, May 1 & 8, Nov 1, Dec 25.   The high-tech Kinémax cinema at
       documenting the town’s history,   & 7 - =  Futuroscope, near Poitiers
       For hotels and restaurants see pp206–8 and pp209–11


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