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176 FR ANCE AND THE L OW C OUNTRIES
The Loire Valley 0 Poitiers
Vienne. * 85,000. k £ @ n 45
Renowned for its sumptuous châteaux, the relics of royal days Place Charles de Gaulle (05-49 41 21
gone by, the glorious valley of the Loire is rich in both history 24). ( Tue–Sun. ∑ ot-poitiers.fr
and architecture. As the Loire runs through the heart of
France, so the region embodies the essence of the French Three of the greatest battles in
French history were fought
way of life. Its sophisticated cities, luxuriant landscape, and around Poitiers, the most
magnificent food and wine add up to a modern paradise. The famous in 732 when Charles
Loire has long been des cribed as exemplifying la douceur de Martel halted the Arab invasion.
vivre: it combines a leisurely pace of life, a mild climate, and Today, the town is a dynamic
the gentle ways of its inhabitants. The overall impression is regional capital with a rich
architectural heritage.
one of an unostentatious taste for the good things in life.
Behind the Renaissance
facade of the Palais de Justice
is the 12th-century great hall
of the palace of Henry II and
Richard the Lionheart. This is
thought to have been the scene
of Joan of Arc’s examination by
a council of theologians in 1429.
Notre-Dame-la-Grande,
whose west front is covered with
superb 12th-century Poitevin
sculpture, stands out among
the city’s churches, as does the
4th-century Baptistère St-Jean,
one of the oldest Christian
buildings in France. The latter
contains Romanesque frescoes.
The Musée Sainte-Croix has
archaeological exhibits, as well
as paintings and sculpture.
Environs
Just 7 km (4.5 miles) north
Tomb of François II in Cathédrale St-Pierre et St-Paul, Nantes of Poitiers, Futuroscope is
a theme park dedicated to
9 Nantes was the birthplace of Anne of state-of-the-art visual techno-
Brittany, who irrevocably joined logy, including the largest
Loire-Atlantique. * 270,000.
k £ @ n 9 Rue des Etats her fiercely independent duchy cinema screen in Europe.
(08-92 46 40 44). ( Tue–Sun. to France by her successive
∑ nantes-tourisme.com marriages to Charles VIII and E Futuroscope
Louis XII. A smaller royal lodging Jaunay-Clan. Tel 05-49 49 11 12. Open
The ancient port of Nantes was lies to the west of it. It was here, check website. Closed Jan–mid-Feb.
the ducal capital of Brittany for in Brittany’s Catholic bastion, that & 7 ∑ futuroscope.com
600 years, but is now considered Henri IV signed the 1598 Edict
a part of the Pays de la Loire. of Nantes, which granted all
Many of its fine 18th- and 19th- Protestants freedom of worship.
century buildings were built on The Musée des Beaux-Arts
profits from the slave trade. has a splendid array of pain tings
Modern-day Nantes is a lively representing key movements
city, with good museums, chic from the 15th to the 20th century.
bars and stores, and open spaces. Packed with mementos, books,
The Cathédrale St-Pierre et and maps, the Musée Jules
St-Paul was begun in 1434, but Verne is dedica ted to the life and
not completed until 1893. It is works of the writer (1828–1905).
notable for its sculpted Gothic
portals and Renaissance tomb E Musée des Beaux-Arts
of François II (1435–88), the last 10 Rue Georges Clemenceau. Tel 02-
duke of Brittany. 51 17 45 00. Open 10am–6pm Wed–
The Château des Ducs de Mon (to 8pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
Bretagne, now with a museum Easter Mon, May 1 & 8, Nov 1, Dec 25. The high-tech Kinémax cinema at
documenting the town’s history, & 7 - = Futuroscope, near Poitiers
For hotels and restaurants see pp206–8 and pp209–11
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