Page 389 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
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ROME      387

       i Santa Maria del                       notorious work is a sculpture by
       Popolo                                  Canova of Pauline Borghese as
       Piazza del Popolo 12. Tel 06-361 08 36.   Venus Victrix (1805), in which the
       q Flaminio. @ 95, 117, 119, 120,        semi-naked Pauline reclines on
       150, 491. Open daily.                   a chaise longue.
                                                 The Galleria Borghese, on the
       Santa Maria del Popolo was              upper floor, houses some fine
       commissioned by Sixtus IV in            Renaissance and Baroque
       1472. After his death in 1484, the      paintings. These include
       pope’s family chapel, the Della         Raphael’s Deposition, along with
       Rovere Chapel (first on the right),     works by Pinturicchio, Correggio,
       was frescoed by Pinturicchio.           Caravaggio, Rubens, and Titian.
         In 1503, Sixtus IV’s nephew             Within the Villa Borghese park
       Giuliano became Pope Julius II          are other museums and
       and had Bramante build a new            galleries, foreign academies, a
       apse. Pinturicchio was called in        zoo, schools of archaeology, an
       again to paint its vaults with          artificial lake, and an array of
       Sibyls and Apostles framed by   Detail from Bernini’s Rape of Proserpine in   fountains and follies.
       freakish beasts.    the Museo Borghese
         In 1513, Raphael created the          p Villa Giulia
       Chigi Chapel (second on the   nephew of Pope Paul V. The park
       left) – a Renaissance fusion of   was the first of its kind in Rome.   Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9. Tel 06-322 65
       the sacred and profane – for    It was laid out with 400 pine   71. @ 52, 88, 95, 490, 495 926,. v 3,
       the banker Agostino Chigi.   trees, sculpture by Bernini,    19. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, May
       Bernini later added the statues   and dramatic water features.  1, Dec 25. & 8 audio. 7
       of Daniel and Habakkuk. In      The villa was used for
       the Cerasi Chapel, left of the   entertaining and displaying    Villa Giulia was built as a
       altar, are two Caravaggios:    the cardinal’s impressive   country retreat for Pope Julius
       The Crucifixion of St Peter and    collection of paintings and   III. Today, it houses a world-
       The Conversion of St Paul.  sculpture. Unfortunately,   famous collection of Etruscan
                           between 1801 and 1809, Prince   and other pre-Roman remains.
                           Camillo Borghese, husband to   There are fascinating pieces
                           Napoleon’s sister Pauline, sold   of jewelry, bronzes, mirrors,
                           many of these to his brother-  and a marvelous terracotta
                           in-law, and swapped 200 of   sarcophagus of a husband
                           Scipione’s Classical statues for    and wife from Cerveteri.
                           an estate in Piedmont. The     The delightful villa was the
                           statues are still in the Louvre.   work of architects Vasari and
                           However, some Classical treasures   Vignola, and the sculptor
                           remain, including fragments    Ammannati. Michelangelo
                           of a 3rd-century AD mosaic of   also contributed. At the center
                           gladiators fighting wild animals.  of the garden is a nympheum –
                             The highlights of the   a sunken courtyard decorated
                           remaining collection are the   with mosaics, statues, and
                           sculptures by the young Bernini.   fountains, built in imitation
                           Apollo and Daphne (1624),   of ancient Roman models.
                           shows the nymph Daphne
                           being transformed into a laurel
       The Chigi Chapel in Santa Maria del Popolo,   tree to escape being abducted
       designed by Raphael  by Apollo. Other striking works
                           are The Rape of Proserpine and a
       o Museo e Galleria   David, whose face is said to be a
       Borghese            self-portrait of Bernini. The most
       Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5. Tel
       06-328 10 (reservations). @ 52, 53,
       910. v 3, 19. Open Tue–Sun
       (reservations obligatory). Closed Jan
       1, May 1, Dec 25. & ∑ galleria
       borghese.beniculturali.it

       The Villa Borghese and its park
       were designed in 1605 for   The cheerful figures of an Etruscan married couple on their
       Cardinal Scipione Borghese,       sarcophagus, Villa Giulia




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