Page 491 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
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TR A VELERS ’  NEEDS      489

       NAXOS: Axiotissa   €€  KOS: Ambavris   €  such as cuttlefish-ink risotto,
       Creative Greek      Traditional Taverna   haricot beans under carob syrup,
       Km 18 of Chóra–Alykó road, near   Ampávris hamlet, 800 m south of Kos   or lamb’s liver with chili.
       Glyfáda             Town, 853 00
       Tel 22850 75107   Closed Nov–Mar  Tel 22420 25696  Closed mid-Oct–
       Organic ingredients feature in   May; lunchtime
       unusual dishes such as rocket   Well-loved farmhouse-courtyard   Crete
       and xinomyzíthra (tart soft   taverna where a mezédes
       cheese) salad, aubergine-almond   medley might include lamb   CHANIA: Ta Halkina   €
       bake, and goat or rabbit stew.  meatballs in ouzo sauce, husked   Cretan Musical Rakadiko
                           beans with garlic, snails, pinigoúri   Aktí Tompázi 29–30, Old Port
        DK Choice          (bulgur), pikhtí (brawn), spicy   Tel 28210 41570
                                               One of the very few good-value
                           loukánika, fáva purée, and stuffed
        SANTORINI: Metaxy Mas  €€  squash blossoms.  old port spots, excelling at Cretan
        Cretan/Cycladic Fusion                 snacks like aubergine roulade
        Exo Goniá, 100 m below top   KOS: O Makis   €€  and rosemary snails. Live music
        church, 847 00     Seafood             several nights weekly.
        Tel 22860 31323    Mastichári, 853 02
        West Cretan staples like píttes,   Tel 22420 59061  DK Choice
        apáki and stamnagáthi greens   O Makis offers some of the
        meet local fáva (split yellow-pea   freshest and least expensive fish   CHANIA: Dounias   €€
        mash) and white aubergine   on Kos, with salads and dips. A   Traditional Greek
        recipes. The yogurt-sauce lamb   basic appearance and oblique   Main Rd, Drakona, 731 00
        on bulgur wheat is hard to beat.   sea views at best mean relatively   Tel 28210 65083
        Dine alfresco, on terraces   few tourists.  A trip to this very special
        gazing out to Anáfi islet, or           restaurant, hidden away high
        inside the old vaulted premises.  RHODES: Mezes   €  up in the hills, is worth the
                           Ouzeri               effort. The owner spent years
                           Aktí Kanári 9, Psaropoúla,    revitalizing the local village
       SANTORINI: Roka   €€  new town, 851 00   economy, and all the dishes
       Creative Greek      Tel 22410 27962      are made from organic, local
       Northern edge, Oía, 847 02  Starters like chickpea stew,   ingredients using traditional
       Tel 22860 71896   Closed Nov–Mar  breaded mastéllo cheese from   recipes and cooking techniques.
       Local vegetables appear in   Chíos, or lahmatzoún (Armenian
       starters like crustless courgette   pizza) make a filling meal, and
       pie and tomato fritters. Mains are   seafood mains are excellent.  ELOUNDA: Ferryman   €€
       relatively pricy. Do leave room for     Traditional Greek
       the chocolate soufflé dessert.   RHODES: Marco Polo Café   €€  Aktí Oloúntos, 720 53
       Charming seating in and around   Creative Greek   Tel 28410 41230
       an old house.       Agíou Fanouríou 42, Old Town,    Family-run restaurant with tables
                           851 00              right at the water’s edge. It serves
                           Tel 22410 25562  Closed mid-Oct–  large portions of top-quality
                           early Apr           Greek food and has an excellent
       Rhodes and the      A magical place with an orchard-  wine list.
       Dodecanese          courtyard setting. It serves subtle
                           recipes with a seafood bias and   IRAKLEIO: Avli tou Devkaliona  €
       KARPATHOS:          decadent puddings made by the   Cretan
       La Gorgona (Gabriella’s)   €€  best Italian dessert chef in town.  Lisimáhou Kalokerinoú 8, 712 02
       Greek/Italian Fusion                    Tel 2810 244215  Closed lunch; Sun
       Diafáni waterfront, far south end  RHODES: Mavrikos   €€€  An always-busy favorite where
       Tel 22450 51509   Closed Nov–Mar  Creative Greek   small starter plates can make a
       A friendly welcome brings diners   Main fountain square, Lindos, 851 07  meal: fluffy keftedákia and even
       here from breakfast until late.   Tel 2810 80240  volví (pickled hyacinth bulbs).
       Dishes include local noodles in   Founded in 1933, this cutting-
       gorgonzola sauce, aubergine   edge restaurant creatively fuses   IRAKLEIO:
       dishes, and homemade desserts.  Mediterranean flavors in dishes   Ippokambos   €€
                                               Ouzeri
                                               Sofokli Venizelou 3, 713 02
                                               Tel 2810 80240
                                               Go early to beat the crowds, as
                                               you can’t book here. Excellent
                                               mezédes, fair-priced seafood,
                                               good wine, and cheerful service.
                                                RETHYMNO: Ta Dyo Ro   €
                                               Greek Fusion
                                               Pánou Koronéou 28, 741 00
                                               Tel 6936 500892   Closed Sun
                                               This wine-and-cooking shop
                                               delights diners with superior
                                               meatballs and cuttlefish stewed
                                               with fennel. Organic beers from a
       The homely interior of Mavrikos in Rhodes  local microbrewery are on offer.
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