Page 590 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
P. 590

588      GERM AN Y ,  A USTRIA ,  AND  SWITZERLAND

       0 Chur                                  with charming chalets. Davos,
       Graubünden. * 35,000. £                 on the other hand, is a big,
       n Bahnhofplat 3 (081-252 1818).         brash town with plenty of
       ∑ churtourismus.ch                      diversions away from the
                                               slopes. It has grown from a
       Chur, the capital of Switzerland’s      19th-century mountain health
       largest canton Graubünden, is a         resort to a major sporting
       quiet, ancient town with origins        center, renowned for skiing,
       that go back 2,000 years. It is         snowboarding, paragliding, and
       located on the upper reaches of         tobogganing in the winter, and
       the Rhine, on an ancient route          hiking, running, and cycling in
       between northern Europe and             the summer.
       Italy. It has long been a religious
       center – the bishop of Chur             q Swiss National
       controls dioceses as far away as        Park
       Zürich – as well as a commercial
       center, and is famous throughout        Graubünden. £ Zernez, Scuol,
       the country for the Passugger           S-Chanf. n National Park House,
       mineral water which is bottled   Elaborate 15th-century gilded altarpiece in   Zernez (081-851 4141). Open Jun–
       just outside the town.  Chur Cathedral  Oct: daily; limited opening in winter.
         The pedestrianized historic           8 ∑ nationalpark.ch
       town center is a maze of   the public) and at the bottom of
       cobbled streets and small   the small flight of steps leading   Switzerland has many small
       squares, including Arcas   up to the cathedral square is    nature reserves but only one
       Square with its sunny, café-  the Rätisches Museum, which   national park. By international
       filled corners in summer. At   focuses on the history and culture  standards, it is small, covering
       the southern tip of the old town,   of the canton of Graubünden.  only 170 sq km (66 sq miles),
       the late-Romanesque cathedral,          but it is an area where
       set in a square, overlooks the   E Rätisches Museum  conservation measures have
       rest of town. The highlight of   Hofstrasse 1. Tel 081-257 4840.    been strictly enforced since
       the cathedral is its intricately   Open Tue–Sun. & ∑ rm.gr.ch  1914, and people always
       carved and gilded 15th-century          take second place to the
       altarpiece, depicting Christ   Environs  natural environment.
       stumbling under the weight    To the east of Chur, there are      The Ofenpass road, linking
       of the cross and scenes from    a number of world-class ski   Switzerland with Austria, cuts
       the life of St. Catherine.   resorts. The two best-known,   through the center of the park
       Unfortunately, lighting levels are  with very different characters,   and affords good views of one
       so low inside the building that   are Klosters and Davos. The   of the park’s valleys. Otherwise,
       its full glory is hard to discern.   former, famous for its   the best way to see the park is
       Next to the cathedral stands the   associations with British royalty,   to take some of the 80 km
       Bishop’s Palace (not open to   is a small traditional resort filled   (50 miles) of marked trails –
                                               walkers are not allowed to
                                               deviate off the paths.
                                                 The landscape is one of
                                               wooded lower slopes and
                                               jagged scree-covered ridges,
                                               including the park’s highest
                                               peak at 3,174 m (10,414 ft) –
                                               Piz Pisoc. Among the abundant
                                               wildlife, you may see are
                                               chamois, ibex, marmots, and the
                                               glorious bearded vultures,
                                               which are very rare in Europe
                                               and were reintroduced into
                                               the park in 1991. From June
                                               to August, with the retreat of
                                               the snows at higher altitudes,
                                               a carpet of beautiful alpine
                                               flowers appears.
                                                 The park has an interesting
                                               bear exhibition in the
                                               Schmelzra Museum, the
                                               former headquarters of a lead
       The lively winter-sports resort of Davos, in the mountains east of Chur  and silver mining company.
       For hotels and restaurants see p594 and p595


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