Page 219 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany
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L OIRE-A TLANTIQUE      217

       q Pays d’Ancenis
       Road map F4. Ancenis. 30 km
       (19 miles) east of Nantes via the A11
       or the N23. * 7,000. £ k Nantes-
       Atlantique. n 27 Rue du Château;
       (02) 40 83 07 44. _ Couleurs Parasol
       (Jul–Aug). ( Thu & Sat. ∑ pays-
       ancenis-tourisme.com
       This area of countryside, whose
       focal point is the town of Ancenis,
       flanks a stretch of the Loire that
       in places runs between high cliffs.  The Nantes–Brest Canal at Blain, just south of the Forêt du Gâvre
         Ancenis, set in the midst of
       vineyards, has some elegant   w Châteaubriant   elegant Renaissance chateau
       wine merchants’ houses and the   Road map F3. * 13,380. £ @ n   with a main building flanked
       16th-century Château d’Ancenis.  29 Place Charles de Gaulle (02) 40 28   by wings. The Romanesque
         Further downstream is the   20 90. ( Wed am. _ Foire de Béré   Église St-Jean-de-Béré, built in
       Donjon d’Oudon, a 14th-century   (Sep). ∑ tourisme-chateaubriant.fr  contrasting blue schist and red
       keep. Overlooking Ancenis,              granite, contains a 17th-century
       the keep is also ideally situated to   The few surviving schist-built   Baroque altarpiece.
       survey the Loire, once the main   medieval houses here give the
       traffic artery in western France.   walled town of Châteaubriant    + Châteaux
       Further upstream is Varades. The   a historic atmosphere. Two   Access via Place Charles-de-Gaulle.
       elegant 19th-century Italian-style   chateaux stand in close   Tel (02) 40 28 20 20. Open May–Sep:
       château, Palais Briau, here was   proximity on a hill overlooking   Wed–Mon; Oct–Apr: Sat–Sun pm.
       built by an engineer who had   the Chère river: a medieval   8 interiors. & (free entry to park).
       made his fortune during the   fortress, with a keep, and an
       reign of Napoleon III.
                                               e Forêt du Gâvre
       + Château d’Ancenis
       Rue du Pont. Tel (02) 40 83 07 44. Open   Road map E4. Blain.35 km (22 miles)
                                               north of Nantes via the N137 then the
       for temporary exhibitions only. &
                                               D164. * 7,450. n 2 Place Jean-
       + Château de Varades                    Guilhard, Blain; (02) 40 87 15 11.
       Palais Briau. Tel (02) 40 83 45 00. Park:    ( Tue & Sat am. _ St-Laurent (Aug).
       Open Apr–Sep: Wed–Mon pm. Palais:       Covering a large massif enclosed
       Open Apr–Sep: Sat, Sun & public
       holidays pm; Aug: Wed–Mon pm.           by the Don, Isac and Brivet rivers,
       8 obligatory. &                         the forest is good walking
                                               country. A 15th century stone
       + Donjon d’Oudon                        building, the Maison de la Forêt,
       Rue du Pont-Levis. Tel (02) 40 83 60    provides information about the
       00. Open Apr–Jul & Sep–mid-Oct:   South gallery of the Renaissance chateau    history and geography of the
       Mon–Fri pm & Sat–Sun; Aug: daily. &  in Châteaubriant  forest, and explains what the life
                                               of its inhabitants was like in the
                                               past. It organizes guided walks
        Vendée Wars                            on themes such as birds and
        In 1793, the persecution of the clergy, the execution of Louis XVI and   fungi. The building also houses
        a rise in taxation provoked an anti-republican uprising in the Vendée.   the Benoist Museum, with a
        Royalists soon followed up with acts of barbarism, and the execution   display of lace head-dresses.
        of republicans in Machecoul began on 11 March. Catelineau, a carter,     The Musée de Blain, in Blain,
                           and Stofflet, a gamekeeper,   on the D164, is devoted to
                           joined by various aristocrats,   popular art and tradition from
                           stirred up revolt among the   prehistoric and Gallo-Roman
                           peasantry. In June, the Armée   times to the early 20th century.
                           Catholique et Royale Vendée
                           seized control of the Vendée, as   P Maison de la Forêt
                           well as the towns of Saumur and   2 route de Conquereuil, Le Gâvre Tel
                           Angers, but it was defeated by   (02) 40 51 25 14. Open Apr–Nov:
                           the republicans at Cholet on    2:30–6pm Tue–Sun.
                           17 October. On the orders of
                           General Turreau, the latter led
        Republican prisoners being given their   punitive expeditions in the   E Musée de Blain
                                               2 Place Jean-Guilhard, Blain. Tel (02)
        freedom            Vendée in 1794–5.
                                               40 79 98 51. Open Tue–Fri, Sat pm. &


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