Page 66 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany
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64      BRIT T AN Y  REGION  B Y  REGION


       Exploring Rennes
       Despite the fire that devastated the city centre in 1720,
       Rennes still has some fine medieval houses. It also has
       many delightful mansions and a remarkable 17th-century
       palace. The city has stood at a strategic crossroads since
       Roman times. In the 10th century, it withstood Norman
       invaders and became a symbol of Breton resistance. In the
       15th century, new fortifications were built to strengthen the
       existing Gallo-Roman ramparts. When Brittany became part
       of France in 1532 and the parliament of Brittany was created
       (see pp66–7), Rennes became the regional capital. After the
       fire of 1720, a Neo-Classical city centre with rigidly straight
       streets was built. This layout, and the buildings dating from the
       same period, give Rennes a somewhat austere appearance.
       A university town, Rennes has a conspicuously lively
       population of students.
                                               Wedding-cake tiers of the façade of
                                               the Cathédrale St-Pierre
       P Old Town            arcaded residential buildings   R Cathédrale St-Pierre
       Between the Vilaine in the   oppo site were designed   Between the Portes Mordelaises
       south and Place des Lices in   by Millardet in 1836.  and Rue de la Psalette.
       the north, the medieval   The 17th–18th century   The cathedral stands on
       centre of Rennes is full of   Basilique St-Sauveur,    the site of an ancient shrine
       timber-framed houses.   in Rue de Clisson, is   in front of which a trove of
       Place des Lices (Square of   associated with the   Gallo-Roman artifacts was
       the Lists) takes its name   composer Gabriel Fauré,   discovered. Work on the
       from the lists where jousting   who was organist there.    building began in the 16th
       tourna ments where once   Rue St-Georges, lined with   century, and the façade was
       held. It was here that   old houses, leads to    completed in the 17th century.
       Bertrand du Guesclin    the Église St-Germain,   The rest was built from 1784
       (see p47) first entered the   whose transept is a fine   to plans by the architect Crucy.
       lists. Around the square,   example of Breton   The 19th-century stuccowork
       three mansions – the   Wooden statue in   Romanesque archi-  and gilding within give the
       Hôtel du Molant, Hôtel   Impasse de la Psalette  tecture. Behind the   interior an opulence worthy             PLACE  ST-MALO
       de la Noue and Hôtel      Église Notre-Dame is   of Roman basilicas. The gilt                                  HOCHE
       Racapée de la Feuillée – all built   the Jardin du Thabor, a master-  wood altarpiece, dating from    Ste-Anne   R UE  S T-MEL AI NE
       before the fire of 1720 – stand as   piece by the Bühler brothers    1520 and by the Flemish       PLACE                   St-Melaine
       symbols of the power of the   (see p65).  School, is of particular note.                    RU E  ST-LOUIS   STE-ANNE
                                                                                                     Ste-Anne
       Breton parliamentary nobility.                                                                                  R U E    HOCHE  COURS DE LAMOTTE   Jardin du
                                                                                                        PLACE
         The Portes Mordelaises, at                                                                    ST-MICHEL  R UE L E BASTARD    RUE DES FOSSÉS   Thabor
                                                                                                PLACE
       the end of Rue de la Monnaie,                                                            DES LICES                       RUE MA R T E N O T
       were the main gateway                                                                                          Parlement
                                                                                                                      du Bretagne
                                                                                                                 RUE
       through which dukes and                                                                           TOULOUSE  NATIONALE  R UE                 V I CTOR - H U GO
                                                                                                         RUE DE
                                                                                              RUE DE LA MONNAIE
       bishops entered the city. Behind                                                    Portes                  PLACE DU
                                                                                                                    PALAIS
       the Cathédrale St-Pierre, in Rue                                                   Mordelaises  Basilique  Theatre     R
       du Chapitre, the Hôtel de Brie                                                                St-Sauveur  Hôtel  PLACE   R. ED ITH   CAVEL L  Église
                                                                                                                DE LA
                                                                                                          de Ville
       and Hôtel de Blossac, with a                                                            Cathédrale  Hotel de Blossac  MAIRIE  RUE ST-GEORGES U E   GAM BETTA
                                                                                                                        St-Germain
                                                                                                St-Pierre
       monumen tal stairway, are                                                                   R UE  S T- Y V E S   RUE   D'ORLEANS  R U E K LEB E R
       among the finest residences.                                                        PL MAL           RUE DE  ROHAN
                                                                                           FOCH
         Place de la Mairie is a large                                                       Q UAI  D U GU AY  T ROU IN    Q U A I  L AMAR T IN E         QU A I  C HATE AU B R IAN D
                                                                                                                          La Vilaine
                                                                                                              PLACE  DE LA
       Neo-Classical square designed                                                              QU A I  LA M E N N AI S    RÉPUBLIQUE  Q U A I  É MI LE-ZOLA
                                                                                                           République
       by Jacques Gabriel. The most                                                          PLACE DE  R UE  D E   LA   CH A LO TAIS    R UE   D U  P RE         -B O T T E   Musée des   LE MANS
       prominent feature of the Hôtel                                                        BRETAGNE                        Beaux-Arts
       de Ville, overlooking the square,                                                  Aéroport                                AVENUE JEAN-JANVIER
                                                                                          7 km (4 miles)
       is the clocktower, which replaced                                                            R U E  P O ULL A IN -DU PA RC   RUE DE NEMOURS   RUE VA S S E LOT
       the old belfry. The sculptures                                                     NANTES  BOULEVARD DE LA LIBERTÉ  RUE DU MARECHAL JOFFRE   RUE ST-THOMAS
       on the doors are by Jacques
       Verberckt, who worked on                                                                        Écomusée de    BOULEVARD DE LA LIBERTÉ  Gare Routière,
                                                                                                                                    Gare SNCF
       the decoration of Versailles for                                                                 la Bintinais                300 m (330 yards)
       Louis XV. The theatre and   Marine Bleue, by G. Lacombe, in the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Rennes
       For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5
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