Page 18 - Forbes - USA (November 2019)
P. 18
Steve Forbes Cont.
lions of lives. Them Survive.” Unlike in the rest of RESTAURANTS:
In vivid contrast to those in the Africa, in Botswana the population GO, CONSIDER, STOP
U.S., British health authorities en- of pachyderms has exploded, from Edible enlightenment from our eatery
dorse e-cigarettes as a highly effective 50,000 in the mid-1990s to 130,000 experts and colleagues Richard Nalley,
means of enabling people to give up today. The country can’t handle that Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well
smoking tobacco. many. “Forced to compete for scarce as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
16 Nonetheless American politicians food and water, elephants have been z Tri Dim Shanghai
and government regulators—led by moving out of their usual range into 1378 Third Ave., between 78th & 79th
the FDA—are banning flavored e-ciga- more-inhabited areas—with horren- streets (Tel.: 212-585-3388)
T
N rettes, claiming that they are designed dous consequences,” i.e., the killing and This authentic Shanghainese restaurant’s
E menu is extensive and clever and offers many
M to lure unwary teenagers to take up the maiming of people in rural villages. dim sum dishes. Begin with delicious pan-
M habit. San Francisco—that haven for Hunting would allow villagers to seared dumplings, soup dumplings or steamed
O drug addicts and people who defecate protect themselves, and rogue pachy-
C dumplings or a juicy Peking crispy duck roll.
on sidewalks—has even banned the sale derms “will quickly learn to keep out of There are such classics as moo shu pork and
&
General Tso’s chicken as well as a bespoke
T of vaping devices. The reality is that al- areas where they shouldn’t be.”
C most all vapers—there are about 11 mil- By allowing local communities to section from which you can design your own
F A dish, choosing the vegetable, main ingredient
lion adult users in the U.S.—prefer fla- get a cut of the hunting-license fees, and sauce. The menu has inventive dishes,
•
vors to the taste of unflavored tobacco. they “will gain a strong incentive to such as Ants Climb on Tree (spicy minced beef
As for an “epidemic” in teenage vap- value [the elephants]—and what you stir-fried with glass noodles in garlic sauce).
ing, there is little evidence e-cigarettes value, you take care of.” Fish lovers should try the Red Fire Cracker
Prawns and Scallops tossed with asparagus
have become a gateway to cigarette What about other parts of Africa, and chili peppers. Service is welcoming.
smoking. Smoking among teenag- such as Angola, where the lethal com-
ers has, in fact, declined dramatically bination of rampant poaching and z Lamalo
since the 1990s. continuous civil strife drove the herds 11 East 31st St., Arlo NoMad Hotel
(Tel.: 212-660-2112)
Banning e-cigarettes, prohibiting fla- away, or the African savanna, where Gadi Peleg’s latest foray into the glorious
vored versions or imposing draconian poaching and, to a far lesser extent, flavors of Israeli and Middle Eastern cuisines
taxes (as a number of pols in Congress population pressures have knocked is minting devotees. Fans come for the Daily
and elsewhere are pushing for) would the elephant numbers down 30%? Spread, a $25-per-person extravaganza
that starts with a delectable piece of laffa,
have two bad results: more people smok- These are areas in which an exten- a blistery Middle Eastern flatbread strewn
ing traditional—and highly lethal—ciga- sive program of controlled hunting and, with savory spices. The spread features
rettes, and the rise of black markets for where possible, greater property rights small dishes from a rotating menu that tend
toward the sensational, including hummus,
flavored e-cigarettes, with all the risks of could be extremely helpful. Famed labneh and the otherworldly scordalia, a
unsafe versions that that would entail. Johns Hopkins economist Steve Han- garlicky, almondy potato dip. The dishes and
ke, who years ago did extensive work in laffa keep coming until you ask them to stop.
Kenya on how property rights might z Keens Steakhouse
How to Save the work, recently wrote for us: “Conven- 72 West 36th St.
tional approaches to wildlife manage- (Tel.:212-947-3636)
Elephants ment in Africa have failed, as witnessed With its low ceilings, crepuscular lighting and
by the dramatic declines in wildlife pop- rank upon rank of clay pipes, Keens is the
HOW’S THIS for a counterintuitive ulations.” He concludes, based on his ex- city’s most atmospheric steak house and, for
those who cherish it, home to the pinnacle
idea? One effective way to preserve el- tensive groundwork in Africa, that “only dish for city carnivores: the smoky, mouth-wa-
ephants and other threatened wildlife by establishing secure property rights for tering trencherman’s mutton chop. Standard
in Africa would be to allow controlled land and wildlife would these resources cuts of luxury beef can hold their own against
big-game hunting. be rendered valuable. Markets for them those at any other steak house in the city, and
the (few) nonmeat choices like the Dover sole
Botswana’s president, Mokgweetsi would then develop. They would be receive the same love from the kitchen.
Masisi, recently penned a provocative wisely used, protected and conserved. z Society Cafe
piece for the Wall Street Journal en- The prudent use of resources is, and 52 West 13th St., Walker Hotel
titled “Hunting Elephants Will Help always has been, all about property, (Tel.: 212-300-4525)
prices, markets and legitimate trade.” The newly rechristened restaurant at the
In addition, such rights would cre- Walker is a good choice for an enjoyable
Introducing ate more resources. For example, the meal. The dining room’s skylight gives the
space a cheerful atmosphere, and service is
What’s Ahead, U.S. pig population would plummet, prompt and pleasant. Salads are tasty and
the new podcast hosted and those remaining would become generously proportioned. The frites in the
by Steve Forbes. wild, if suddenly there were no mar- steak frites are boffo, and the ricotta ca-
vatelli is just like mom used to make. Banana
Subscribe now on iTunes ket for bacon, ham, sausage, pork and crème brûlée and the layered chocolate cake
or GooglePlay Store. pork rinds. F are both worth the calories.
F O R B E S . C O M N O V E M B E R 3 0 , 2 0 1 9
