Page 50 - Forbes - USA (March 2020)
P. 50

CONTRARIAN     LIFE

              By Chloe Sorvino                                                                               Photograph by Tim Pannell for Forbes




               The James Bond of Burgundy




      48



       E                            Winemaker Jean-Charles Boisset has stealthily built a $450 million
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       L                    oenological empire in France and California one struggling vineyard at a time—

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                                               and uncorked a lascivious secret-agent persona.
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                                                                     inspired  meal  for  the  French-born  winemaker,
                                                                                                                             A Glass by Himself
                                                                     part of his multicity tour to promote a $395 cof-
                                                                                                                             Jean-Charles Boisset,
                                                                                                                             in the Raymond
                                                                     fee table book called The Alchemy of the Senses.
                                                                                                                             Vineyards’ Red Room,
                                                                     As  saumon  à  l’oseille  arrives  with  a  rich  pinot   has a boutique that
                                                                                                                             sells jewelry and
                                                                     noir, Boisset begins to explain his selection, an       a bobblehead of
                                                                     unusual blend of grapes from Burgundy and Cal-          himself that sings.
                                 Jean-Charles Boisset quiets a       ifornia called JCB No. 3.
              long table of 50-plus guests in New York’s Meat-          After inhaling deeply from a particularly wide
              packing District as gold magnums of Champagne          crystal  goblet  that’s  part  of  his  new  collabora-
              clink  in  the  background.  It’s  a  Last  Supper–    tion with Baccarat, Boisset admits that this din-


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