Page 123 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

FUR THER AFIELD  121

from all over the world. These
are on display to the public
and are also studied by
specialists. The huge gardens
are divided into geographical
zones – Cuba, America, Africa,
Asia and Oceania. The Caribbean
section, which takes up one-
fifth of the garden, has 7,000
flowering plants, half of which
are unique to Cuba. There
are also curiosities such as
the Archaic Woods and the
Palmetum. The former has
plants descended from species
that thrived in ancient geological The Sanctuary of San Lázaro at El Rincón
eras, such as the Palma corcho,
a fossil species that can still e Santuario In Afro-Cuban religions Lazarus
be found in the Pinar del Río Nacional de corresponds to Babalú Ayé. Both
region. The Palmetum has a San Lázaro saints are represen ted in folk ico-
large collection of palm trees nography as old men in tatters
from all tropical latitudes. Calzada de San Antonio km 23, and covered with sores. In the
A must is the cactus area El Rincón, Santiago de las Vegas case of the African saint, the skin
near the entrance. However, (Havana). Tel 7683 2396. Open 7am– disease was supposedly punish-
the most interesting part of 7pm daily. 5 9am & 5pm Mon–Sat, ment from Olofi, the father of all
this rather sparse park is the 11am & 4pm Sun. _ Feast Day of the gods (see p26), for the saint’s
Jardín Japonés, a Japanese St Lazarus, 17 Dec. adulterous and libertine past.
garden with artificial waterfalls This sanctuary, dedicated to On 17 December, the simple
and a pond with a gazebo. It St Lazarus, the patron saint of white sanctuary welcomes
was donated to Cuba by the the sick, lies in the small village thousands of worshippers, many
local Asian community in 1989. of El Rincón, outside Santiago of whom have crawled or walked
Another fascinating sight de las Vegas. It is next to an old on their knees from Havana. They
here is the orchid garden, lepers’ hospital, which now flock here to make vows or ask
with numerous varieties. specializes in dermatology. St Lazarus (called milagroso or
“the miraculous one”) to inter-
cede for them. The pilgrims light
Italo Calvino and Cuba candles, leave flowers and make
Santiago de las Vegas, most famous for its San Lázaro sanctuary, offerings at the sanctuary’s altars.
was also the birthplace of the great Italian novelist Italo Calvino The worshippers also bring dogs.
(1923–1985). His father Mario was an esteemed agronomist The water from the fountain
who went to Cuba in 1918, following his appointment as to the right of the sanctuary,
director of the Estación Experimental de Santiago de las Vegas. considered miraculous by
This experimental field station covered 123 acres (50 ha) of land believers, is used to cure
and employed 100 university graduates and 63 office workers. diseases and ease pain.
While in Cuba, Mario Calvino found ways of making genetic
improvements to sugar cane and introduced new plants,
including pumpkin and lettuce. He also worked on tobacco,
corn and sorghum, while his wife Eva wrote articles exhorting
Cuban women to emancipate themselves and
acquire new dignity through education and
training. When the Calvino family returned
to San Remo in Italy, they took not only a
son who would become a great writer,
but also mango, avocado, flam boyant,
cherimoya and even sugar cane
seeds, which they cultivated at
the San Remo Experimental
Agriculture Station. In 1964 Italo
Calvino was named a member
of the jury for the Casa de las
Américas prize (see p104) and
visited Cuba, where he returned
Author Italo Calvino, born at to his birthplace and also met
Santiago de las Vegas Che Guevara. The altar of St Lazarus with flowers
left by worshippers

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