Page 180 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 180

178      CUBA  REGION  B Y  REGION

       9 Santa Clara

       Founded on 15 July 1689 by a group of inhabitants from
       Remedios (see p181), who had moved away from the coast
       to escape from pirate raids, Santa Clara was for centuries
       the capital of the province of Las Villas, which included the
       present-day provinces of Cienfuegos, Sancti Spíritus and
       Villa Clara. One important historical event has made Santa
       Clara famous: in 1958 it was here that the last battle of the
       guerrilla war led by Che Guevara took place, the battle which
       marked the end of Batista’s dictatorship. Santa Clara is now   The Teatro La Caridad, where Enrico
                                               Caruso performed
       known as “the city of the heroic guerrilla”. Today, it is a
       lively, urbane city and has several interesting sights.  additional services – a barber
                                               shop, ball room and gambling
                                               room, café and restaurant –
                                               with the aim of collecting
                                               money to be given to the poor
                                               in the city (hence its name,
                                               Charity Theatre).
                                                 The building has a simple,
                                               linear façade, in contrast to the
                                               ornate interior, with its profusion
                                               of chandeliers and painted
                                               panels and a stage with all kinds
                                               of mechanical gadgets and
                                               draped curtains. The auditorium
                                               itself, which has three tiers of
                                               boxes with wrought-iron
                                               balusters, had folding seats in
                                               the stalls right from the start –
       Santa Clara’s well-tended main square, Parque Leoncio Vidal  something completely new
                                               in Cuba at the time.
       Parque Leoncio Vidal  partly off limits to black people,     Perhaps the best feature of
       The heart of the city, this   who could only walk along   the theatre is the frescoed
       charming square with its   certain areas of the pavement.  ceiling, executed by the
       pristine flower beds, wrought-          Spanish-Philippine painter
       iron benches and period street   P Teatro La Caridad  Camilo Salaya, representing
       lamps has retained its original   Parque Vidal 3. Tel (42) 205 548.  the allegorical figures of
       1925 atmosphere.    Built to a design by the   Genius, History and Fame.
         An obelisk stands here.    engineer Herminio Leiva y
       It was commissioned by the    Aguilera for the heiress Martha   E Museo de Artes
       rich heiress Martha Abreu de   Abreu de Estévez, this theatre   Decorativas
       Estévez in honour of two priests,   was inaugurated in 1885 and   Calle Martha Abreu, esq. Luis Estévez
       Juan de Conyedo and Hurtado   restored from 2009 to 2010.   Tel (42) 205 368. Open 9am–6pm
       de Mendoza. The heiress also   The theatre offered many   Mon, Wed & Thu, 1–10pm Fri & Sat,
       financed the construction of the        6–10pm Sun. & 8
       Teatro de la Caridad, the town’s        The excellent Decorative
       first four public bathhouses, the       Arts Museum, housed in a
       astronomical observatory, the           building dating from 1810,
       electricity station, a hospital         contains 17th-, 18th-, 19th-
       and a fire station.                     and 20th-century furniture,
         There is also a bust of               as well as furnishings and
       Leoncio Vidal, a colonel in the         paintings that belonged to
       national independence army              leading local families.
       who died in battle in 1896,               Among the objects on display
       here in this square. The park is        here, those donated by the
       also home to a fountain, and a          Cuban poetess Dulce María
       sculpture entitled Niño de la           Loynaz (see p33) are particularly
       Bota (child in boots), purchased        elegant and delightful: five
       by mail order from the J L Mott         fans, eleven sculptures and
       Company, an art dealer in New   An antique vase in a hall in the Museo de   two Sèvres porcelain jars, the
       York. Until 1894 the square was   Artes Decorativas  largest of their kind in Cuba.
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp259–60 and pp273–4


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