Page 183 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 183

CENTR AL  CUBA  –   WEST      181


                           personality are on display.
                           García Caturla was a composer,   The Parrandas
                           pianist, saxophone player,
                           percussionist, violinist and
                           singer, as well as a fine tennis
                           player and rower, journalist
                           and art critic.
                             Also in the square are three
                           other noteworthy buildings.
                           The Hotel Mascotte was the
                           site of an important meeting
                           between Generalíssimo Máximo   A 19th-century print showing people
                           Gómez and a US delegation    gathering in the square
       Baroque altar at Iglesia de San Juan   in 1899. The former Casino
       Bautista, Remedios  Español, now Casa de la Cultura,   In 1829 the parish priest of
                           and the El Louvre café, founded   Remedios, Francisco Virgil
       q Remedios          in 1866, also stand here.  de Quiñones, had the idea
                             However, Remedios is most   of getting some boys to
       Villa Clara. Road Map C3. * 16,500.       bang on sheets of tin in
       £ @ n Infotur, Calle Pi y Margall,   famous for the Parrandas, the   order to get the lazier
       (42) 397 227. _ Parrandas (24 Dec).  local festival documented in    church members out of their
                           the fascinating Museo de las   homes to participate in
       Founded in 1515 by Vasco   Parrandas Remedianas.    the night-time celebrations
       Porcallo de Figueroa and given   Here, photographs, musical   of the Advent masses
       the name of Santa Cruz de la   instruments, costumes,   (16–24 Dec).
       Sabana, this town was renamed   sketches, carriages and trabajos     In time this strange
       San Juan de los Remedios del   de plaza – decorated wooden   concert developed into a
       Cayo after a fire in 1578.  structures – bring to life   fully fledged festival, with
         This peaceful place has a   Parrandas past and present.  music, dances, parades with
       small, well-preserved colonial            floats and huge wooden
       historic centre in the area   Environs    contraptions (trabajos de
       around Plaza Martí. Overlooking   Located north of Remedios,    plaza). The festivity is a
       this square is the Iglesia de San   the resort of Cayo Santa María    sort of cross between Mardi
                                                 Gras and the Italian Palio
       Juan Bautista, which is con-  is reached via 48 km (30 miles)   horse race, based on the
       sidered one of the most   of low-lying causeway known as   competition between
       important churches in Cuba.   El Pedraplén. The resort is made   two quarters of Remedios,
       What we see today is the result   up of hotels set along stunning   San Salvador and Carmen.
       of restoration carried out in    sandy beaches, as well as a     The Parrandas begin
       the 20th century thanks to    dolphin arium, a bowling alley   on 4 December with
       the rich landowner Eutimio   and a shopping complex.  concerts performed
       Falla Bonet, who revived its              with various percussion
       original Baroque splendour   E House of Alejandro    instruments, and end
       without touching the Neo-  García Caturla  with a great crescendo
       Classical bell tower. Most   Calle Camilo Cienfuegos 5. Tel (42) 396   on Christmas Eve. The two
       striking are the lavish Baroque   851. Open 9am–noon & 1–6pm Tue–  trabajos de plaza, one per
       altar and the magnificent   Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. & 8  quarter, which are made
       decorative ceiling.  E Museo de las Parrandas   during the year, are left
         Behind the cathedral is the   Remedianas  in Plaza Martí during
       House of Alejandro García   Alejandro del Río 74 e/ Máximo   the festivities. They are
       Caturla. Here, the musical   Gómez y Enrique Malaret. Tel (42)    illuminated at nine in the
       instruments, photographs and   395 448. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat,   evening and may have a
       some personal belongings of   9am–1pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,   historical, patriotic, political,
       this talented 20th-century   26 Jul, 25 Dec. & 8  scientific or architectural
                                                 theme. Later on there are
                                                 fireworks to welcome the
                                                 entrance of the floats
                                                 (carrozas), which never
                                                 occurs before 3am. These
                                                 tableaux vivants move
                                                 among the crowd.
                                                   The most endearing aspect
                                                 of the Parrandas, enlivened
                                                 by songs, polkas and rumbas,
                                                 is that all the inhabitants, of
                                                 all ages, take part.
       Plaza Martí, the tranquil central square in Remedios




   180-181_EW_Cuba.indd   181                               14/02/17   11:28 am
   178   179   180   181   182   183   184   185   186   187   188