Page 190 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
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188      CUBA  REGION  B Y  REGION

       Trinidad: Exploring Plaza Mayor

       The museums and buildings facing the main square in
       Trinidad lend historic weight and depth to the “suspended-
       in-time” feel of this city. It is worth stopping in the town
       centre for at least half a day to see the museums, relax on
       the benches in the shade of the palm trees, enjoy a cocktail
       at the bar on the steps next to the cathedral, or stroll
       around the stalls in the crafts market.


       R Iglesia Parroquial de la   Trinidad. While preparing to
       Santísima Trinidad  make a fourth attempt to reach
       Plaza Mayor. Open 11am–12:30pm   Mexico, the ship’s captain
       Mon–Sat.            decided to leave behind part
       Completed in 1892, this austere   of the cargo, which included
       church with a Neo-Classical   the huge chest containing the   A 19th-century shower in the Museo de
       façade stands at the top of the   statue of Christ. The locals   Arquitectura Colonial
       sloping Plaza Mayor.  regarded the arrival of the
         The four-aisle interior has a   sacred image as a sign from   building techniques used
       fine Neo-Gothic altar dedicated   Heaven, and from that   during the colonial
       to the Virgin of Mercy, with a   time on the Señor de la   period. There is a
       painting by the Cuban painter   Vera Cruz became an   collection of various
       Antonio Herr on the rear wall.   object of fervent worship.  locks, latches, doors,
       But the real attraction of this     The Maundy Thursday   hinges, windows and
       church is an 18th-century   procession, which was   grilles, as well as parts
       wooden statue made in Spain,   suspended in 1959    of walls and tiles.
       the Señor de la Vera Cruz (Lord    and revived again in     In one of the
       of the True Cross), which is   1997, is dedicated to   Bronze knocker, Museo de   bathrooms facing
       associated with a curious story.   this statue.  Arquitectura Colonial  the inner courtyard
       The sculpture, made for one                    is a fine example of
       of the churches in Vera Cruz,   E Museo de Arquitectura   a 19th-century shower, with a
       Mexico, left the port of   Colonial     complicated network of pipes
       Barcelona in 1731, but three   Calle Ripalda 83, e/ Hernández    supplying hot and cold water.
       times in succession the ship   Echerri y Martínez Villena, Plaza Mayor.
       was driven by strong winds    Tel (41) 993 208. Open 9am–5pm   P Universal Benito Ortiz
       to the port of Casilda, 6 km    Sat–Thu. & 8 Note: fee for   Galería de Arte
       (4 miles) from the city of   photography may apply.   Calle Rubén Martínez Villena y Bolívar,
                           The front of the 18th-century   Plaza Mayor. Tel (41) 994 432.
                           mansion of the Sánchez    Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat.
                           Iznaga family, now the home    This beautiful mansion
                           of the Museum of Colonial   with a long wooden balcony,
                           Architecture, features a lovely   reminiscent of the colonial
                               portico with slim   buildings in La Habana Vieja,
                                columns, a wrought-  is evocative of the city’s golden
                               iron balu strade and   age. It was built in 1809 for
                                wooden beams.   Ortiz de Zúñiga, a former
                                Originally, the building   slave trader who later became
                                consisted of two   the mayor of Trinidad. The
                                separate houses, both   house currently serves as an
                                of which belonged    art gallery.
                                to sugar magnate     The first floor has paintings
                                Saturnino Sánchez   on display (and for sale) by
                                 Iznaga. The houses   contemporary Cuban artists,
                                were joined during   including Antonio Herr, Juan
                                 the 19th century.  Oliva, Benito Ortiz, Antonio
                                    The museum, the   Zerquera and David Gutiérrez.
                                 only one of its kind    Of interest in the gallery itself
                                in Cuba, covers the   are frescoes, the great staircase,
                                 different architectural   and, in the upper hall, a ceiling
                                 elements seen in   decorated with figures. From
       The statue of Señor de la Vera Cruz (1731), in one of the   Trinidad and   the balcony there is a fine view
       chapels inside Santísima Trinidad  illustrates the   of the entire square.
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp261–2 and pp274–5


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