Page 236 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 236

234      CUBA  REGION  B Y  REGION

       Beyond Santiago’s Historic Centre       The funerary monuments them-
                                               selves are fascinating. The Neo-
       Calle Saco (also known as Enramada), Santiago’s main   Classical tombs nearest the
       commercial street, links the heart of the old city with the    entrance are the oldest, followed
       port. After passing through a working-class quarter,    by the eclectic and then
       with early 20th-century wooden houses, the street ends    Modernist tombs. The Rationalist
                                               tombs built from the mid-20th
       at Paseo Marítimo. Laid out in the colonial era as a seafront   century on include Martí’s large
       promenade for the city’s high society, this broad street retains   octagonal mausoleum.
       echoes of its former beauty and still has its original 1840
       paving, stretching out along the port, where cruisers and   E Museo 26 de Julio –
       yachts are moored. An alternative route to explore is to go    Cuartel Moncada
       in the opposite direction, east of the centre, where there are   Calle General Portuondo (Trinidad), e/
                                               Moncada y Ave de los Libertadores.
       important historic sites, including the Moncada barracks.  Tel (22) 661 157. Open 9am–12:30pm
                                               Mon & Sun, 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sat.
       E Casa Natal de Antonio                 & 8 Note: fee for photography
       Maceo                                   may apply.
       Calle Los Maceo 207, e/ Corona y        On 26 July 1953, at the height
       Rastro. Tel (22) 623 750. Open 9am–     of the Carnival festivities, Fidel
       2pm Mon, 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8           Castro led about 100 rebels in an
       Note: fee for photography may apply.    attack on the Moncada barracks
       The house where this great              (see p52). Capturing Moncada,
       general was born on 14 June             the second largest garrison in
       1845 (he died near Havana               Cuba, built in the 19th century,
       on 7 December 1896; see p48)            would have meant securing a
       is a modest place. Visitors             large stock of weapons and thus
       can see some of the hero’s              triggering a general revolt. Abel
       personal belongings and family          Santamaría was to attack the
       photographs, including one of   The mausoleum of José Martí in the    Saturnino Lora hospital, a
       his brother José, who was also a   Santa Ifigenia Cemetery  strategic site on a promontory
       general, and one of his mother,         overlooking the barracks, and
       Mariana Grajales.   were reserved for those of   Raúl Castro was to capture the
                           higher social status. A visit to   law courts building. This bold
       P Cementerio de Santa   the Santa Ifigenia cemetery   attempt failed, but it did succeed
       Ifigenia            evokes two centuries of Cuban   in increasing public awareness
       Avenida Crombet. Tel (22) 632 723.   history, past the tombs of such   of the activity of the young
       Open 7am–6pm daily. & 8   illustrious 19th-century figures   revolutionaries. Eight of them
       This monumental cemetery   as José Martí, Carlos Manuel    died during the attack, while 55
       (1868) is the second most   de Céspedes, Emilio Bacardí    were taken prisoner; some were
       important in Cuba after the   and the mother of Antonio   tortured and executed.
       Colón cemetery in Havana    Maceo, as well as the     Since January 1959 the
       (see pp108–9). It was originally   20th-century revolutionaries    barracks, which still bears bullet
       laid out with a Latin cross plan   of the Movimiento 26 de Julio   holes, has housed the Ciudad
       and divided into courtyards,    such as Frank País, who was   Escolar 26 de Julio school. Part of
       the most important of which   killed in 1957 (see p54).  the building houses the Museo

















       The impressive façade of the former Moncada army barracks, now a school and museum
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp262–3 and p275


   234-235_EW_Cuba.indd   234                               14/02/17   11:37 am
   231   232   233   234   235   236   237   238   239   240   241