Page 279 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 279

SHOPS  AND  M ARKE T S      277


       the street, as they are almost
       invariably fakes made by
       machine, rather than handmade,
       or are badly preserved, bear
       signs of faulty workman ship,
       or contain banana leaves and
       other rubbish. In addition,
       street vendors will not be able
       to provide you with an official
       purchase receipt, needed to
       take goods out of the country.
         Branches of the ARTex chain
       stock a good selection of CDs,
       records and cassettes. Another
       well-stocked music store is   Paintings for sale in the huge Almacenes San José, Havana
       Longina, in Calle Obispo,
       La Habana Vieja. Note that   wood carvings and ceramics    because of the political system.
       recordings of local music may   to embroidery, papier mâché   The Havana Biennale – which
       not be available           objects and musical   is now held every three years,
       outside Cuba.              instruments. In La   despite retaining the name
         Paintings, sculpture     Habana Vieja there    ‘biennale’. – is popular with
       and prints in the          is a daily handi crafts   collectors from around the
       art galleries and in       market in the   world. Once a piece of artwork
       the tiendas of the         Almacenes San José   is bought the artist arranges
       Fondo de Bienes            (see p73). Plaza de   the export permit of around
       Culturales are             Armas is the place   CUC$5 per work.
       sold with official         for the rare Latin
       authenticity certifi-  Shelves with cigars in a   American novels    Markets
       cates, which are   Casa del Habano  and second-hand
       needed for export.        political tomes. There   The fruit and vegetable markets
                           is also a market on La Rampa    (mercados agropecuarios) in
       La Casa del Habano  in Vedado.           Cuba are lively and entertaining
       Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás,     The market in Trinidad, near   places to stroll around. Stalls sell
       Havana. Tel 7866 8060;    the central square, is a good   fresh fruit and vegetables, pork
       Ave 1, esq. 63, Varadero.    place to look for embroidered   and sausages, sweets, traditional
       Tel (45) 667 843.    linen and cotton. Crafts are also   food and flowers. In Havana, the
       Club Havana, Ave 5, e/188 y 192,   sold in state-run shops, in the   most central food market is in
       Playa, Havana. Tel 7204 5700.
                           Ferias de Artesanía and in the   the Barrio Chino (see p94), but
       Tienda ARTex        Galerías de Arte throughout    one of the best is at the corner
       Ave. L, esq. 23, Havana.    the island.  of 19 y A in Vedado.
       Tel 7838 3162.
                           Art                   A Souvenir in
       Handicrafts                               Front of the
                           Many artists have private studios
       Cuba does not have a long   or sell art through state-run   Capitolio
       tradition of producing handi-  galleries which take a 40 per
       crafts. Today, however, market   cent commission. There is quite
       stalls are found everywhere,   a lot of interest in Cuban art    Photographer
       selling all sorts of things from   in the international market   with his old
                                                Polaroid camera


                                                 In front of the Capitolio
                                                 (see pp86–7) in Havana, visitors
                                                 can have their picture taken
                                                 with an original 1930s Polaroid
                                                 camera, for one convertible
                                                 peso. The photos develop
                                                 immediately and the resulting
                                                 picture, in black and white,
                                                 looks just like a convincingly
                                                 old photograph.
       Souvenirs at the Trinidad street market




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