Page 283 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
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ENTER T AINMENT  IN  CUBA      281


                                               Most discos are based in the
                                               tourist resorts, concentrated in
                                               Varadero. These are large,
                                               modern discos featuring loud
                                               music (usually a mix of salsa
                                               and other Latin sounds with
                                               world-beat), neon lighting and
                                               simple decor. The entry fee
                                               is in convertible pesos and is
                                               usually quite expensive. Several
                                               such discos are for hotel patrons
                                               only. For these reasons, the
                                               majority of the customers are
                                               foreigners. However, there is
                                               usually a sprinkling of young
                                               Cuban couples, as well as
       A traditional son band performing in a Trinidad street  wayward singles waiting
                                               outside in the hope of
       groups preparing for Carnival   has an annual Jornada   partnering with a foreigner
       (see p233) are open to the public.  Cucalambeana folkloric   for entry (occasional police
         Don’t miss the evening    festival where local songsters   sweeps occur, when Cubans
       train ing sessions in the various   perform décimas, ten-syllable   being too friendly with
       focos culturales from Tuesday    rhyming songs.  foreigners are arrested).
       to Friday. The Cabildo Carabalí           The best such clubs in
       Izuama rehearses Carnival               Varadero are Mambo Club
       songs derived from African   Nightclubs, Cabarets    and Palacio de la Rumba. All
                           and Discotheques
       musical traditions. In the foco         three are popular with Cubans,
       cultural, founded by Haitian   Most tourist villages and large-  who often travel many miles
       slaves in the late 1700s,   scale hotels in Cuba have clubs   to party until dawn. The most
       18th-century dances are   that open until late. Customers   unusual venue is Trinidad’s
       accompanied by Bantu musical   pay in convertible pesos;   Disco Ayala, deep inside a cave.
       instruments. Here, too, both the   depending on location, most     You can also listen to
       Casa del Caribe and Centro   Cubans cannot afford them,    modern “música popular” in
       Cultural Africano Fernando   so don’t expect to find a broad   Casas de la Música in a few
       Ortíz hold rumbas on weekends   cross-section of Cuban society.  major cities. The principal
       (see p282: Cultural Centres).    Outside tourist resorts, most   venue, the Casa de la Música
         Guantánamo is the birthplace   nightclubs are associated with   de Trinidad, hosts concerts by
       of many traditional dance    cabarets. The most important   local groups. Several open-air
       forms, including changuí, and    are the Tropicana, in both   ruins in Trinidad are also used as
       is home to the annual June   Matanzas and Santiago. Varadero   nightclubs. The Patio de Artex
       Festival Nacional de Changuí.    also offers exc ellent cabarets   in Cienfuegos is also bursting
       At other times, changuí and its   espéctaculos at the Cueva del   with energy on weekends; and
       derivative, son, are performed   Pirata, where shows are held   the Club Benny Moré is a
       by the world-famous Orquesta    in an atmospheric natural cave.   1950s-style nightclub with disco
       Revé and other leading local   It also now boasts a Casa de la   following comedy and cabaret.
       proponents at the Casa de la   Música. Every other major town     Santiago’s venerable hot-
       Música, the Casa de la Trova    has at least one cabaret, which   spots are the Patio de Artex,
       (see p282: Casas de la Trova)    turn into night clubs with   Casa de la Trova and Casa de
       and the British West Indian   dancing once the show ends.  las Tradiciones.
       Welfare Center. Witness
       Haitian folkloric dance at the
       Tumba Francesa.
         The Casa de la Cultura in
       Pinar del Río is known for its
       controversias, a form of song
       in which two singers pit them-
       selves against each another
       in creative impromptu verse.
       The Casa de la Cultura in
       Nueva Gerona is a centre for
       the local music and dance
       form known as sucusuco,
       unique to the Isla de la
       Juventud. And Las Tunas    One of the Tropicana dancers in a typically exotic costume




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