Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE cuba region b y region  213
EASTERN CUBA
Granma • Holguín • Santiago de Cuba • Guantánamo
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE cubans refer to the eastern part of cuba as the
oriente, giving it an exotic, magical appeal.
The landscape, stretching out towards Haiti
and other caribbean islands, is varied, with majestic
mountains, magnificent coastlines and an area of arid desert,
unusual in cuba. The eastern cities, often rich in history, include Santiago
de cuba, host to one of Latin america’s most famous carnivals.
This guide will help you to get the most out important sights, with maps, floor plans, From the 17th to the 19th centuries, at the stake in the 16th century for
thousands of black slaves were brought to organizing resistance against the Spanish.
Cuba from Africa, men and women who Then, in the 19th century, local nationalists
of your visit to Cuba by providing detailed photographs and detailed illustrations. became the ancestors of the multi-ethnic led the wars of independence. The citizens
of Bayamo even burned down their town
mix visible in Eastern Cuba today, part
African, but also part Spanish, part French
rather than hand it over to the enemy. In
and Chinese. In this cultural melting pot, the 20th century, there were the rebeldes
information and expert recommendations. Hotels and restaurants, together with night African and European, Roman Catholic (many of whom were from Eastern Cuba,
including Fidel Castro himself), who
and pagan traditions are blended,
launched the struggle against Batista’s
sometimes inextricably.
The area is full of apparent
Introducing Cuba maps the island and spots and shops, are described in Travellers’ contradictions: there is the combative dictatorship by attacking the Moncada
barracks in Santiago.
Yet the people of eastern Cuba also
Oriente, rebellious and indomitable; and
yet there is also the laid-back Oriente, an know how to have a good time, adore
sets it in its historic, artistic, cultural and Needs, while the Survival Guide offers tips on oasis of pleasure, and the sonorous Oriente, music, rhythm and dance of all kinds,
the cradle of great musicians. It is true that and each July put on a colourful Carnival
the people of Eastern Cuba have always
and Fiesta del Caribe at Santiago de
geographical context. Havana and the everything from transport to phones and fought with great fervour. One example is Cuba; the carnival is one of the most
celebrated in Latin America.
the Indian chief Hatuey, who was burned
four regional sections describe the most local currency.
Havana Area by Area
HA V ANA AREA B Y AREA  65 All pages relating to Cactuses growing along the Costa Sur, the only arid zone on the island, east of Guantánamo
The centre of the city is la HaBaNa VIEJa Havana have the same Basílica del Cobre, location of the venerated black Madonna, Virgen de la Caridad
The historic heart of Havana, which was architecture, vitalized by the tropical sun coloured thumb tabs.
divided into three areas, each declared part of the “cultural heritage of and lush vegetation. Time seems to stand
still here but nonetheless the zone does
humanity” by UNESCO in 1982, is the largest
colonial centre in Latin America. After three
centuries of neglect, restoration work under not give the impression of being a museum.
The restoration programme is not limited to
with its own chapter. The last the direction of Eusebio Leal Spengler, the monuments and major buildings, but also
historiador de la ciudad (Super intendent of
includes old shops and ordinary houses.
Cultural Heritage), is reviving the former The aim is to ensure the revival of both the Sights at a Glance lists the sights
beauty of La Habana Vieja and its original
chapter, Further Afield, covers characterized by Hispanic-Andalusian vitality and everyday activities. in each chapter by category:
splendour of this district. La Habana Vieja is
peripheral sights. All the Sights at a Glance Historic Streets and Squares Churches and Monasteries Churches, Museums and Galleries,
Museums and Galleries
2 Museo de Arte Colonial
7 Calle Oficios
1 Catedral de San Cristóbal
e Museo del Ron 9 Calle Obispo t Convento de Santa Clara
0 Casa de la Obra Pía
i Casa Natal de José Martí
y Iglesia del Espíritu Santo
sights are numbered and Historic Buildings q Casa de Africa u Iglesia de Nuestra Señora Streets and Squares, Historic
de la Merced
w Plaza de San Francisco
3 Seminario de San Carlos y San
Ambrosio r Plaza Vieja Buildings, Parks and Gardens.
4 La Bodeguita del Medio
plotted on the Area Map. 5 Castillo de la Real Fuerza
6 El Templete
8 Palacio de los Capitanes Generales PEÑA POBRE
pp74–5
The detailed information for CUARTELES CHACÓN TACÓN AV E N I D A D E L P U E R T O
TEJADILLO
each sight is easy to locate EMPEDRADO PLAZA DE LA PLAZA DE ARMAS BARATILLO Area Map
CATEDRAL
PROGRESO O'REILLY MERCADERES JÚSTIZ 1All the major sights are
because it follows the HABANA OBISPO AGUIAR OBRAPIA CUB SAN IGNACIO OFICIOS
LAMPARILLA A SAN FRANCISCO numbered and located on
PLAZA DE
AMARGURA
COMPOSTELA
numerical order on the map. B E R N A Z A BRASIL (TENIENTE REY) PLAZA VIEJA CHURRUCA
VILLEGAS
AGUACATE
See also Street Finder, MURALLA this map. Those in the
pp122–7, map 4 CRISTO SOL
MURALLA SANTA CLARA
SOL AGUACATE PORVENIR LUZ INQUISIDOR OFICIOS ( S A N P E D R O ) historic centre are also
VILLEGAS
ACOSTA CUBA SAN IGNACIO listed in the Havana Street
JESÚS MARÍA MERCED
LUZ COMPOSTELA
CURAZAO
CONDE LEONOR PÉREZ (PAULA) DAMAS Finder (see pp122–7).
HABANA
PICOTTA
SAN ISIDRO
A Locator Map shows where you 0 metres 300 A V E N I D A D E L P U E R T O
A V E N I DA DE L AS M IS ION E S ( M O N SERR ATE ) A V E N I D A B É L G I C A ( E G I D O )
0 yards 300
are in relation to the other areas of
the city. Belfry of Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís, rising above Plaza de San Francisco For keys to symbols see back flap
70  H A v A n A A re A B y A re A L A H ABA n A vie j A  71
Street-by-Street: Around Plaza de Armas 5 . Castillo de
la Real Fuerza
The elegant, spacious Plaza de Armas is lined with Baroque This 16th-century castle,
buildings, giving it a delightful colonial atmosphere, and is with its broad moat and
characteristic angular
enlivened by the occasional passing performance of street ramparts, is the oldest LA HABANA
VIEJA
dancers. The plaza was built in the 1600s to replace the old military construction in CENTRO HABANA
AND PRADO
Plaza Mayor, the core of Havana’s religious, administrative and Havana. The Giraldilla,
symbol of the city, stands
military life, and up to the mid-1700s it was used for military in its entrance.
exercises. After its transformation in 1771–1838, it became a Locator Map
favourite with rich Havana citizens and popular as an area for
See Street Finder, pp122–7, map 4
carriage rides. Following years of careful restoration work, the Calle Enna is Havana’s narrowest and
square now attracts throngs of visitors and locals, many of shortest street. It was named after a
whom simply gather here to sit and relax. Palacio del Segundo general active in the colonial period.
Cabo (1776), the
former residence of
the Spanish lieutenant
Street-by-Street Map governor, is now the
home of a Cuba-
Europe cultural
exchange centre.
2 This gives a bird’s-eye view Plaza de CALLE TACÓn
la Catedral
of the most important areas (see pp66–7) C A L L E O ´ R E I L L y A v E n I d A d E L P u E R T O
6 . El Templete
in each chapter. C A L L E O ´ R E I L L y PLAzA ARMAS dE This Neo-Classical building, shaded
by a majestic ceiba tree, evokes
memories of the city’s foundation.
8 . Palacio de los
Stars indicate the sights Capitanes Generales Hotel Ambos CALLE MERCAdERES C A L L E b A R A T I L L O
This fine Baroque palace, now
Mundos
the Museo de la Ciudad, was
no visitor should miss. built for Cuba’s old colonial rulers. Former C A L L E O b I S P O
A statue of Columbus stands in
the courtyard, beneath towering
Ministerio de
royal palms.
Educación C A L L E O F I C I O S C A L L E J Ú S T I z
Farmacia
Taquechel
Hotel Santa Isabel is in the
former home of the Conde
de Santovenia, built between
and comprehensively
94  ha v ana area b y area centro habana and pr ado  95 the 18th and 19th centuries
9 . Calle Obispo restored (see p256).
Like an open-air
w Museo Nacional r Iglesia del museum of colonial C A L L E O b R A P í A La Casa de 7 Calle Oficios 0 metres 60 60
architecture, this street is
This perfectly restored
de Bellas Artes Sagrado Corazón lined with buildings of 0 Casa de la Obra Pía los Arabes colonial street houses
0 yards
a number of shops
housed the
interest dating from the
See pp96–9. Avenida Simón Bolívar (Reina) 463. 16th–19th centuries, This large 17th-century mansion is well- city’s first and museums, Key
Map 3 B3. Tel 7862 4979. Open including old pharmacies known for its elaborate Baroque school in the including a vintage Suggested route
7:30am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8am–noon & and historic shops. doorway, which was sculpted in Spain. 17th century. car museum.
e Barrio Chino 3–5pm Sun. 5 8am, 4:30pm Mon–
Sat, 8am, 9:30am, 4:30pm Sun. & 8 For hotels and restaurants in this area see p256 and p270
Map 3 C3. With its impressive bell tower,
The Chinese quarter of Havana, 77 m (253 ft) high, the Church
the Barrio Chino, which now of the Sacred Heart can be seen
occupies a small area defined from various parts of the city.
by Calles San Nicolás, Dragones, It was designed in the early
Zanja and Rayo, developed in The austere interior of Iglesia de 1900s by the Jesuit priest Luis Suggested routes are
the 19th century. In its heyday, la Caridad Gorgoza and consecrated in
in the early 1900s, there was a 1923, and is a rare example of
cultural association performing which has a pagoda roof. the Neo-Gothic style in Cuba. shown in red.
plays and operas, and a casino. Another, much more impressive Dominating the façade is a
The colourful streets were full of Ming and Ching-style portico figure of Christ resting on three
vendors of fritters and other was erected in 1998 at the columns decorated with a Callejón de Hamel, famous for its exotic and colourful murals
Asian specialities, and people corner of Calle Dragones and capital depicting the parable of
came to buy the best fruit and Calle Amistad. It is almost the prodigal son. The interior Fraternidad. The middle section to his varied cultural roots by u City Walls
freshest fish in the city. 19 m (62 ft) wide and was has elaborate stained-glass of the boulevard was reserved representing all the religious Avenida del Puerto Map 4 D5.
Today, all the Chinese donated to Cuba by the windows narrating the life of for carriages, while the two cults and movements of
shops are concentrated in the Chinese government. Christ and a wealth of stucco- side avenues with their African origin that are still The old colonial city of San
so-called Cuchillo de Zanja The Barrio Chino is also home work and pointed arches. benches, trees and active in Cuba, hence the Cristóbal de La Habana was
area (the intersection of Zanja to the Iglesia de la Caridad, A Byzantine-style Sacred Heart fountains were for many symbols, writings, encircled and fortified by a
and Rayo), a mixture of the dedicated to Cuba’s patron saint with sculptures of saints and pedestrians. First named and images of African 9-m (30-ft) high wall with
oriental and the tropical; the (see p225). The church also has a prophets is on the high altar. Alameda de Tacón or gods and Abakuá nine bastions and a moat.
architecture, however, is not popular statue, a Virgin with Paseo Militar, it was devils (see p27). He Construction began in 1671
particularly characteristic, Asian features, brought here in renamed Avenida began this enormous and took over a century to
except for the quarter gate, the mid-1950s. Carlos III in honour of project in 1990. complete, finishing in 1797.
the Spanish king who This alley has every- Once finished, the gates
The Chinese Community in Havana encouraged Cuban thing: from small shops were closed every evening and
commerce and culture selling hand-crafted access to the bay was blocked
The first Chinese arrived in Cuba in the mid-1800s to work in in the 18th century. religious objects to a by a chain. Cannon shots were
the sugar industry, and they were treated like slaves. The first One of the most Nganga, the large fired every night from a ship
to gain their freedom began to cultivate small plots of land curious buildings on cauldron-like pot anchored in the bay, informing
in Havana. In one of these, near the present-day Calle Salud, the street is the Grand which forms the the inhabitants that the gates Detailed Information
they grew Cuba’s first mangoes, which were an immediate, National Masonic Representation of basis of Palo Monte, were closing. By the early
spectacular success. Chinese restaurants began to appear in Temple, with a globe Oshún, the goddess the religion of former 19th century, the city was
the area after the second wave of Chinese immigrants arrived on the roof, built in of love Bantu slaves from the expanding so fast that finally
from California (1869–75), armed with their American savings. the mid-1900s. African Congo. On in 1863 the walls had to be 3The most important monuments
Without losing any of their cultural traditions, the Chinese Sundays Callejón de Hamel torn down. Today, the best
community has become assimilated into Cuban society, becomes the venue for rumba remaining sec tions are opposite
accepting and sharing the island’s lot. A black granite column y Callejón de shows, popular with the locals the Museo de la Revolución
at the corner of Calle Linea and Calle L remembers the Entrance to the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón, Hamel and tourists alike. and by the train station. and sights in Havana are
Chinese who fought for Cuban independence.
with its statue of Christ
Map 3 A2.
This street in the working-
t Avenida Carlos III class Cayo Hueso quarter is a described individually. Addresses,
curious open-air Afro-Cuban
(Avenida Salvador Allende) Map 3 B3.
sanctuary. Its name derives
Laid out in 1850 during from a legendary French- phone numbers, opening hours
redevelopment under the German resident called
supervision of Captain Miguel Fernando Hamel, a wealthy
de Tacón, this boulevard (official arms dealer-turned-merchant,
name Avenida Salvador Allende) who took the entire quarter and information concerning
was designed to allow troops under his wing. The colourful,
and military vehicles to go from 200-m (656-ft) mural here,
the Castillo del Príncipe – built for which the street is now guided tours and taking photos
on the Aróstegui hill in the late famous, is the work of native
Entrance gate to Barrio Chino, the Chinese quarter in Havana 1700s – to their parade ground painter Salvador González.
in the present-day Parque de la He wanted to pay homage Remaining section of the old City Wall near Estación Central
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp256–7 and p271 are also provided.
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