Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
cuba region b y region  213
EASTERN CUBA
Granma • Holguín • Santiago de Cuba • Guantánamo
cubans refer to the eastern part of cuba as the
oriente, giving it an exotic, magical appeal.
The landscape, stretching out towards Haiti
and other caribbean islands, is varied, with majestic Introduction to the Region Cuba Region by Region
mountains, magnificent coastlines and an area of arid desert,
unusual in cuba. The eastern cities, often rich in history, include Santiago
de cuba, host to one of Latin america’s most famous carnivals. 1The landscape, history and
From the 17th to the 19th centuries, at the stake in the 16th century for character of each region are Apart from Havana, the island
thousands of black slaves were brought to organizing resistance against the Spanish.
Cuba from Africa, men and women who Then, in the 19th century, local nationalists has been divided into four
became the ancestors of the multi-ethnic led the wars of independence. The citizens described here, showing how
mix visible in Eastern Cuba today, part of Bayamo even burned down their town
African, but also part Spanish, part French rather than hand it over to the enemy. In
and Chinese. In this cultural melting pot, the 20th century, there were the rebeldes the region has developed over regions, each with a separate
African and European, Roman Catholic (many of whom were from Eastern Cuba,
and pagan traditions are blended, including Fidel Castro himself), who
sometimes inextricably. launched the struggle against Batista’s the centuries and what it has chapter: Western Cuba,
The area is full of apparent dictatorship by attacking the Moncada
contradictions: there is the combative barracks in Santiago.
Oriente, rebellious and indomitable; and Yet the people of eastern Cuba also to offer to visitors today. Central Cuba – West, Central
yet there is also the laid-back Oriente, an know how to have a good time, adore
oasis of pleasure, and the sonorous Oriente, music, rhythm and dance of all kinds,
the cradle of great musicians. It is true that and each July put on a colourful Carnival Cuba – East and Eastern Cuba.
the people of Eastern Cuba have always and Fiesta del Caribe at Santiago de
fought with great fervour. One example is Cuba; the carnival is one of the most
the Indian chief Hatuey, who was burned celebrated in Latin America.
Regional Map
214  cuba region b y region eastern cuba  215
2 This shows the road network
Exploring Eastern Cuba Sights at a Glance e Basílica del Cobre Tour
1 Holguín pp216–17
the classic starting point for touring the eastern provinces 2 Gibara r Santiago de Cuba pp226–35 q Towards Santiago via Cabo and provides an illustrated
is santiago de cuba, a city rich in history, with lovely 3 Bahía de Bariay t Castillo del Morro pp236–7 Cruz pp222–3
colonial architecture and sites associated with the 1959 4 Guardalavaca y Parque Baconao pp238–41
revolution. to the west rises the majestic sierra Maestra, 5 Chorro de Maíta u Guantánamo
also with its own associations with the guerrilla war of
Cactuses growing along the Costa Sur, the only arid zone on the island, east of Guantánamo 6 Banes i Costa Sur overview of the whole region.
o La Farola
7 Mayarí
the 1950s. the sierra is most easily reached, in fact, from
Basílica del Cobre, location of the venerated black Madonna, Virgen de la Caridad 8 Cayo Saetía p Baracoa pp246–7
the north, near bayamo. to the east, the Parque baconao
has all kinds of attractions, ideal for families with children, The small islands of the Bahía de Naranjo 9 Bayamo a El Yunque All the interesting places to
s Río Toa
0 Manzanillo
while more adventurous souls can head further east, national park w Gran Parque Nacional d Parque Nacional Alejandro
to the province of guantánamo, famous for its us naval Sierra Maestra de Humboldt
base, and baracoa, cuba’s oldest city. the province of f Boca de Yumurí visit are numbered in the same
Holguín, further north, has some fine beaches, and BAHÍA DE
cuba’s most interesting archaeological site. BARIAY GUARDALAVACA
Velasco GIBARA order in which they are
Floro Pérez Fray CHORRO DE MAÍTA
Benito
San Andrés BANES
0 kilometres 20 Las Tunas described, and there are also
0 miles 20 HOLGUÍN Grupo de Maniabón Antilla El Ramón A t l a n t i c O c e a n
Las Tunas Mir Tacajó Bahía de The azulejos decoration in the Colonia
Maceo Báguano Nipe CAYO SAETÍA Española in Manzanillo useful tips on getting around
Cacocum
Vado del Jeso HOLGUÍN Guatemala Playa Corinthia Moa
Guamo Tranquera Cueto Guaro MAYARÍ Cupey
Embarcadero Cauto Cauto Tres San Pinares de Cristal Sagua de PARQUE NACIONAL the region by car and by
Sierra
Embarcadero
HUMBOLDT
Golfo de Llanura del Cauto Guacanayabo Babiney German Mensura de Mayarí Mayarí Tánamo Caimanes Abajo ALEJANDRO DE Playa
Guacanayabo Dos RÍos Emb. Protesta Chamarreta Arriba Arroyo Bueno RÍO TOA Maguaná public transport.
BAYAMO
MANZANILLO GRANMA Jiguaní de Baraguá La Quijada Felicidad EL YUNQUE BARACOA BOCA DE
La Demajagua Guisa Contramaestre La Ayúa La Prueba Carrera Zoológico YUMURÍ
de Piedra
Yara Bueycito GUANTÁNAMO Maisí
Campechuela SANTIAGO DE CUBA Larga Jamaica Puriales Sierra del Purial Sabanilla Punta Maisi
Media Bartolomé Los Horneros Palma Soriano San Luis de Caujerí Pico del Gato LA FAROLA
Luna Cienaguilla BASÍLICA La Maya GUANTÁNAMO 1176
DEL COBRE San Antonio Imías Cajobabo
NACIONAL SIERRA
Niquero Villa Santo Domingo GRAN PARQUE Sierra Maestra SANTIAGO DE CUBA Vilorio del Sur
Pico Turquino MAESTRA Caimanera C O S T A S U R
Playa Las Siboney PARQUE Tortuguilla
Coloradas 1974m La Mula Chivirico Playa Blanca BACONAO Guantánamo Each region can easily be
SANTIA G O VIA CABO
Sevilla Las CASTILLO Naval Base
Pilón Marea
identified by its own
Cabo Cruz del Portillo Cuevas DEL MORRO Sigua (U.S.A.)
colour coding.
Getting Around
Although sights on the outskirts of Santiago
Key can be reached by bus or taxi, by far the
Motorway best way to get around Eastern Cuba is to
hire a car. Some journeys are among the
Major road most picturesque in Cuba, especially the
Minor road drive to Baracoa via “La Farola” (see p243).
Scenic route Another option would be to fly to the main
eastern towns. Various organized tours are
Main railway also available, starting off from Santiago or
International border
from the beach resorts of Holguín province,
Regional border A group of musicians improvising a concert in Parque Céspedes, especially Guardalavaca. These tours can
Summit Santiago de Cuba be booked through travel agencies. A perfectly restored Neo-Classical building in the centre of Baracoa
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp262–3 and p275 248  cuba region b y region For keys to symbols see back flap eastern cuba  249
real (Campeophilus principalis)
and the cagua rero hawk
(Chondrohierax wilsonii), as well as
Detailed Information on for the smallest amphibian in the
world, the Sminthillus limba tus,
less than 1 cm (0.4 inch) long, and
3 Each Sight another very ancient species, the
almiquí (Solenodon cubanus), a
rare mammal similar to a rat.
All the major cities and other s Río Toa
Road Map F4.
top sights are described in The valley fed by the Río Toa,
Cuba’s biggest river, has been
made into a nature reserve,
detail. They are listed in order, the Parque Natural Río Toa.
Still lacking in roads and
facilities, this park is part of a
The mountain of El Yunque, dominating the bay of Baracoa wide­ranging project to create
following the numbering on a El Yunque that looks like an island” in 1492. refuges and camping sites that Río de Miel, flowing through virtually virgin tropical forest between Baracoa and Boca de Yumurí it is home to a variety of birds,
will not interfere with the local
In fact, he was referring to a
ecosystems. Local farmers still
Guantánamo. Road Map F4.
the most beautiful beach in
similarly shaped rock at
use an old­fashioned craft to
the Regional Map. Within each n Ecotur, Calle Ciro Frías, Bariay near Gibara travel upstream – the cayuca, the province, with dazzling d Parque Nacional snails, scorpions, frogs, birds,
Baracoa, (21) 642 478.
Alejandro de
a flat canoe of
white sand. The beach’s Taíno
(see p218).
and the rare Cuban solenodon
Humboldt
name refers to the presence of
The slopes of
(Solenodon cubanus), which
Taíno origin.
A limestone formation, 575 m
town or city there is detailed (1,885 ft) high, covered with the mountain, Going up the Río Toa in a From the river, a nearby archaeological site. Road Map F4. looks like a giant shrew with
an extraordinarily long snout.
thick vegetation, El Yunque
which has been
visitors can admire
A 2­km (1­mile) coral reef lies
At the edge of the park is the
only 500 m (1,640 ft) from the
was a sacred site for the Taíno
declared a
the majestic Pico
This mountainous rainforest
Indians for many centuries. biosphere reserve rowing boat Galán (974 m/ shore. Be warned though that 56 km (35 miles) north of stunning Bahía Taco bay, home
Later it became a natural
Baracoa is Cuba’s most richly
by UNESCO, are
3,200 ft) and the
the sea can often be rather
information on important landmark for navigators about home to botanical rarities, great waterfalls that cascade choppy in this area. biodiverse park and a UNESCO The Ecotur office in Baracoa (see
to a small group of manatees.
p247) can help with arranging
World Heritage Site. Named
into the river from steep cliffs.
There is an smart, rustic hotel
to land at the port of Baracoa.
including two carnivorous plants
hidden among the coconut
after the 19th­century German
and Podocarpus, one of the
walks and boat trips in the bay.
Enquire at Ecotur if you are
The Spanish called it “El Yunque”
buildings and other sights. (the anvil) because of its oldest plant species in the world, interested in exploring the area. palms, where villas can be naturalist and explorer f Boca de Yumurí
as well as an endemic palm tree,
unmistakable outline. The out­
Alexander von
rented, but this place is still
Humboldt,
Coccothrinax yunquensis.
Environs
delightfully unspoilt.
crop’s shape has led to local
misapprehension that this El Yunque is also the habitat Northwest of Baracoa, 21 km Road Map F4.
was the rock that Columbus for some endangered species (12 miles) past the mouth of Polymita Snails
described as “a square mountain of bird such as the carpintero the Río Toa, is Playa Maguana, Around 30 km (18 miles) east
A genus endemic of Baracoa, this village of
to the Baracoa area, bohíos (traditional dwellings
with palm­leaf roofs) takes its
The Visitors’ Checklist the Polymita is a snail with Patterned Polymita name from the Yumurí river,
a brilliantly coloured shell.
shells
According to the colour, six
which flows into the sea here.
provides all the practical species of Polymita can be Its inhabitants live by fishing,
identified: P. picta, P. muscarum, P. sulphurosa, P. versicolor,
but earn a little extra by taking
P. venusta and P. brocheri. All these species live on trees and
tourists on river boat rides.
the health of the plants, especially coffee trees. Polymita snails
information you will need to plants, and feed on mushrooms and lichens, contributing to A short boat ride across
the Yumurí river will take you
can be easily recognized, because the shell with coloured
to an enchanting beach.
stripes looks as though it has been painted, and stands out
plan your visit. clearly against the bright green vegetation. Another interesting trip is to
go upstream, where the river
One of the many legends that explains how the snail
course reaches an impressive
acquired its colours tells of a young Indian who had no pearls
or jewels to give to his beloved, so he painted a snail shell. He canyon with walls as much as
used the yellow of the sun, the green of the woods, the red of 180 m (590 ft) high.
the flowers, and the white from the foam of the waves. But The Río Yumurí flows through
when he decided to take the blue from the sky, it was too late an area interesting for its
in the day, and he had to be content with the black of night. ecology. Colourful tropical
Today this snail, highly prized for its shell, is an endangered birdlife abounds, including the
species. Selling or gathering Polymita is not permitted. zunzún, the tocororo and the
Playa Maguana, one of the unspoilt beaches near Baracoa cartacuba (see pp24–5).
EASTERN
236  C UBA REG i ON B y REG i ON For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp262–3 and p275 CUBA  237
t Castillo del Morro Triangular Lunette VISITorS’ ChECKLIST
Built in 1590–1610 as the main
At the entrance to the Bay of Santiago, 10 km (6 miles) protection for the fortress gate, Practical Information Boxes provide further
this structure originally stood
southwest of the city centre, stands an imposing castle, separately from the castle. Santiago de Cuba. Carretera del
declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997. It was later incorporated into Morro, km 7.5. road Map F4.
Tel (22) 691 569. open 8am–
The Castillo del Morro San Pedro de la Roca combines the main structure. 5pm daily. & 8 information on the region:
medieval elements with a modern sense of space, adhering
nonetheless to classical Renaissance principles of geometric
forms and symmetry. The fortress was designed in 1638 by A cannon, part of the old battery used leading figures, legends,
to defend the bay
engineer Giovanni Bautista Antonelli for the governor Pedro
de la Roca, who wanted to defend the city against pirate historical events, local flora
raids. Large enough to house 400 soldiers when it was built,
the castle was converted into a prison in 1775, becoming a
fortress once again in 1898 during the wars of independence, and fauna, curiosities, and so on.
when the US fleet attacked the city. Today it houses a naval
and piracy museum.
Drawbridge
This bridge passes over a dry
moat that runs alongside the
fortification on the inland side.
It is well preserved, and still has
the original winch which was
used to raise and lower
the bridge.
. View of the Bay Cuba’s Top Sights
The parapets and lookouts on the upper . Central Square
parts of the fortress were used by the This square, the nerve centre of 4 These are given two or more
sentries to keep watch. Visitors today the castle, was used as an area
can appreciate the setting and enjoy for organizing daily activities.
a marvellous view over the bay. The square provides access to
the chapel, barracks, garrison full pages. Historic buildings
and underground rooms.
KEY
1 Plataforma de la Punta are dissected to reveal their
(morrillo, or bluff)
2 The stone stairway on the side
of the castle facing the sea is part of The Bay of Santiago interiors, while museums have
an open-air network of steps leading
to the upper levels. About 8 km (5 miles) southwest of the centre of Santiago, at the
3 Underground passageways end of the Carretera Turística, is Marina Punta Gorda. From here
link the various parts of the castle. ferries cross over to a small island in the middle of the bay. colour-coded floor plans to
This one leads to the artillery area. This is Cayo Granma, home
4 Artillery area to a picturesque fishing village
made up of multicoloured huts
5 In the casemates a display of and small houses. Many of those help you locate their most
prints illustrates the history of on the island’s margins are built
Santiago’s forts. on piles or pontoons extending
6 Dry moat over the water. This island is a interesting features, which
peaceful place off the beaten
7 Three separate main structures, track, although there are a
built on five different levels, form the few restaurants and cafés.
skeleton of the castle. This unusual It makes a good place to relax
construction is a result of the uneven View of Cayo Granma from the and round off a visit to Santiago are shown in photographs
terrain of the headland. Carretera Turística de Cuba.
with captions.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp262–3 and p275
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