Page 83 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

HABANA VIE JA  81

On the Catholic saint’s feast
day, 24 September, Santería
followers come dressed all in
white – the colour associated
with Obatalá.
i Casa Natal de
José Martí
Calle Leonor Perez 314, e/ Egido y
Picota. Map 4 E4. Tel 7861 3778.
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat,
9:30am– 12:30pm Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8
This modest 19th-century
building in the Paula quarter
became a national monument
thanks to the special historic
importance attached to José
Martí (see p49), who is the
object of great patriotic
veneration. The author and
national hero, who died in
combat on 19 May 1895
during the wars of indepen-
dence against the Spanish,
The nave of the Iglesia de la Merced, illuminated by small light bulbs was born here in 1853. After
his death, his mother Leonor
y Iglesia del (Avenida del Puerto, e/ Sol y Pérez lived in the building,
Espíritu Santo Santa Clara). It was built in 2008 and when she died it was
to commemorate Cuban- rented to raise money to bring
Calle Cuba esq. Picota. Map 4 E3. Russian friendship. up her grandchildren. In 1901,
Tel 7862 3410. Open 9am–noon it was purchased by the
Tue–Sun, 3–6pm Tue, Thu & Sat, municipality after city-wide
3–5pm Wed & Fri. ^ 5 5pm Thu & u Iglesia de fundraising, and was turned
Sat, 10:30am Sun. Nuestra Señora de into a museum in 1925, but
The Church of the Holy la Merced government funding only
Ghost (Espíritu Santo) is of became sufficient with the
historical importance as one Calle Cuba 806, esq. Habana. Map 4 F3. advent of Fidel Castro.
of the oldest Roman Catholic Tel 7863 8873. Open 8am–noon, The house has been restored
churches in Havana. It was 3–5pm daily. 5 9am Thu–Tue. beautifully, and visitors can view
built in 1637 by freed African furniture, paintings, and first
slaves. Thanks to a papal bull Construction of this church editions of the writer’s works.
and a royal decree from Carlos began in 1637 but ended only There are also objects of great
III, in 1772 it acquired the in the following century, while historic value such as the inkpot
exclusive right to grant asylum the lavish decoration and ivory pen used
to all those persecuted by of the interior dates by Generalissimo
the authorities. from the 19th Máximo Gómez and
From an architectural century. The church José Martí to sign
standpoint, the building’s most is popular among the Manifesto de
striking feature is the tower, those who follow Montecristi, which
which is almost as tall as the Santería, or local officially marked the
one on the Basilica of San Afro-Cuban religion beginning of the
Francisco (see p78). The church (see pp26–7). war against Spain.
was radically rebuilt in the 19th According to the Everyday objects are
century, retaining its Hispanic- beliefs of this cult, Portrait of José Martí by also on display, such
Arab look only in the charac- Our Lady of the Herman Norman in Casa as the penknife Martí
teristic double pitch roof. The Merced corresponds Natal de José Martí had in his pocket
main chapel was built by Bishop to a Yoruba divinity when he died, and
Jerónimo Valdés in 1706–29. known as Obatalá, principal the album with dedications
Close by is the domed, figure among the gods and the and signatures from friends
white Catedral Ortodoxa protector of mankind, who during his wedding to Carmen
Nuestra Senora de Kazán imparts wisdom and harmony. Zayas-Bazán.

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