Page 145 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 12: The Heart of France 143

5 Col de Gerbey 7 Saint-Amour-Bellevue
Rhône, Rhône-Alpes; 69840 Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne; 71570
Pass through the small hamlet of La The lovely sounding village of Saint-
Grange du Bois, but not without Amour-Bellevue welcomes visitors
stopping to take in the wonderful on special occasions with a flourish
perspectives over the landmark rocks of red hearts attached to signposts,
of Solutré and Vergisson. Continue trees, streetlights and stores. Bucolic
on a forested road through pine trees stone homes and travel lers’ inns,
up to the Col de Gerbey (613 m/ flowery restaurant terraces and love-
2,010 ft) for a sharp contrast between heart-decorated craft shops line the
the vineyards of lower Beaujolais and Avenue Plâtre Durand. However, the
the arid highland prairies of Haut- village’s real love affair is with its grand
Beaujolais. One place here is called cru wine. Visit the private cellars
the Paradise of Goats and visitors will perched between the village square
see many of these animals grazing and almost immediate countryside.
along with cows. ª Retrace the route to Plâtre-Durand
ª Take the D137 and follow signs in and take the D186. Turn left into the
the direction of Juliénas. D95, pass through Les Paquelets, turn
right onto the D186 then right again
6 Juliénas onto D166. Pass Les Deschamps, take
Rhône, Rhône-Alpes; 69840 the D68, then turn left into the D266.
At the heart of an undulating collage
of villages, vineyards, mountain 8 Romanèche-Thorins
foothills and streams is the town of Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne; 71570
Juliénas, which owes its name to At the heart of Beaujolais and Above Scenic slopes of the villages and
Julius Caesar. It has been growing cassis (blackcurrant) countryside, vineyards of Juliénas Below Church at
vines now for over 2,000 years. The Romanèche-Thorins is the place Romanèche-Thorins with vineyards in
commune pro duces two appella- where visitors will discover tasting the foreground
tions – Juliénas and Beaujolais- rooms for wine and liqueurs behind
Villages – and road side signs will Romanesque façades. The Hameau
direct vacationers to small private du Vin (open daily), an initiative of
cellars. The Château du Bois de la noted vigneron George Duboeuf,
Salle, on the other hand, is much tells the history of wine making
larger and home to the cooperative through various inter active displays
cellar of 100 Juliénas vignerons. This and exhibits. It also has a beautiful
17th-century priory was built by Beaujolais garden. Another curiosity
Charrier de la Roche, chaplain of for visitors is the Musée du
Napoleon I. Compagnonnage (open daily Jan–
ª Take the D17E and then the D169; mid-Dec) – a museum that showcases
pass through the village and take the the special French associations for
D486T. Turn left at Plâtre-Durand to the carpentry, stonemasonry and EAT AND DRINK
reach Saint-Amour-Bellevue. joinery trades.
SAINTAMOURBELLEVUE
Auberge du Paradis
moderate–expensive
Chef Cyril Laugier’s renowned fusion
of spicy spontaneity, farm-fresh
produce and attention to detail makes
the Auberge du Paradis a special res-
tau rant. The decor of white stone and
linen and red love-heart lights lends
the place a romantic atmosphere.
Avenue Plâtre Durand, 71570; 03 85 37
10 26; www.aubergeduparadis.fr;
closed Tue and Wed lunch, Jan
ROMANÈCHETHORINS
La Maison Blanche moderate
The restaurant specializes in traditional
cooking and regional food. It also
serves à la carte and seasonal menus.
RN6, 71570; 03 85 35 50 53; closed Sun
dinner, Mon, late Feb–mid-Mar