Page 143 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 12: The Heart of France 141

1 Cluny communal washing places – lavoirs.
Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne; 71250 Visit the Musée de la Vigne (open Mon–
A cradle of Christendom in medieval Sat) in the Château de la Greffiere at
Europe, the famous Benedictine La Roche-Vineuse and the 11th-
Abbey of Cluny was the largest century Benedictine chapel in Igé.
religious building in the world before ª Continue on the D85 to Marigny,
the completion of Rome’s St Peter’s Verzé and Igé, then right into the
Basilica. Built in AD 910, it ruled over D134, then D82 towards Hurigny.
a monastic empire of 10,000 monks. From there take the D194 to
An independent or guided tour of the Chevagny-les-Chevrières and Prissé,
abbey explores the pillars and arches the D45 to Bussières, the D45/D177 to
of its monastic build ings, the south Vergisson and Davayé.
transept – the only part still standing –
courtyards and gardens, ending at the 3 Pouilly-Fuissé
Abbey’s Museum of Art and Archaeo- Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne; 71960
logy. Other town highlights include The vineyards which lay claim to the
the honeycomb of medieval and renowned Pouilly-Fuissé wine label
Romanesque houses in the old city, exist on a narrow strip of land 10 km
the Tour des Fromages and the Hôtel- (6 miles) west of Mâcon. Since the
Dieu (Town Hospital) and its chapel. appellation was created in 1936, its
Horse-lovers can take a guided visit of borders have been irrevocably fixed
the Haras National (National Stud) around the four villages of Chaintré, Above Steeple of the Abbey of Cluny
established by Napoleon I as a Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson. surrounded by the lush green countryside
military equestrian centre. Between Romanesque fountains and
WHERE TO STAY
ª Leave Cluny via the D15 and D980, churches, the villages have vaul ted
turn left into the D17 towards La wine cellars, some of them in
Roche-Vineuse on D85 with a possible châteaux. On the village square of CLUNY
Hostellerie Le Potin Gourmand
detour on the D220 to Berzé-la-Ville. Solutré, the Atrium (open Tue–Sat Sep–
moderate
Jun, Mon–Sat & Sun pm Jul–Aug) is a
The hotel’s themed rooms include
Beaujolais showcase and tasting room for the Potters, Gardeners and Byzantine.
Beaujolais is the collective name Pouilly-Fuissé Growers Association. 4 Champ de Foire, 71250; 03 85 59
given to 12 appellations including ª From Davayé take the D209 to 02 06; www.potingourmand.com
the world-famous Beaujolais Pouilly, then to Fuissé, then the D172/ Hôtel Restaurant de Bourgogne
Nouveau. Each appellation is linked D31 to Solutré-Pouilly. From Solutré- moderate
with a different terroir. Saint Amour, Pouilly, the D54 leads to the Roche de This is a 1817 house that is furnished
Juliénas, Chénas and Moulin à Vent Solutré behind the village – there are with antiques and has a restaurant.
are among the region’s ten jewels – parking zones alongside the D54. An Place de l’Abbaye, 71250 ; 03 85 59 00
58; www.hotel-cluny.com
the Beaujolais Crus. The launch of option is to leave the car in the village
the latest Beaujolais vintage is cele- AROUND POUILLYFUISSÉ
and start the walk from there along a
brated every November to cries of marked pathway via the cemetery. Domaine la Source des Fées
“The Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived!” moderate
This 16th-century stone building houses
a serene guesthouse on a wine estate.
2 Route des Vins Route de Chaintré,Fuissé 71960; 03 85
Mâconnais-Beaujolais 35 67 02; www.lasourcedesfees.com
Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne; 71000
The wine route weaves its way EAT AND DRINK
through the valley northwest of
Mâcon known as Val Lamartinien. It CLUNY
passes by the imposing château of La Halte de l’Abbaye inexpensive
Berzé-le-Châtel and neighbouring This is a mix of café, bar, brasserie and
town of Berzé-la-Ville – an offshoot of restaurant, with snacks, salads, meat
dishes, crêpes and desserts.
Cluny – whose Chapelle des Moines
3 rue Porte-des-Prés, 71250; 03 85 59
has prized Byzantine frescoes. The 28 49; open Thu–Mon lunch only
circuit from Berzé-la-Ville and La
Roche-Vineuse towards Verzé, Igé and AROUND POUILLYFUISSÉ
Hurigny is particularly pic ture sque La Courtille de Solutré inexpensive
The restaurant, 9 km (6 miles) west of
with its undulating mix of crops and
the village, is known for traditional
countryside, forest, vales, vines and French and Burgundian dishes.
villages. Each hamlet has its Roman Above Across stands by the road in Le Bourg, 71960; 03 85 35 80 73; closed
church, Renaissance houses and Solutré-Pouilly as vineyards stretch to the horizon Sun night, Mon and Tue
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40