Page 230 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

228 BACK ROADS FRANCE

4 Basse Corniche signs for Nice. Turn left onto the D33,
Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte right onto the D6007, then a quick
d’Azur; 06320 left onto Avenue Léopold II (D33),
One of the French Riviera’s three towards Villefranche-sur-Mer. At the
corniches, the Basse Corniche (D6098) crossroads turn left onto Boulevard
rambles along the coast, alternatively Edouard VII (D133) to Beaulieu-sur-
soaring above the sea or dipping Mer. There are car parks in Place
down just above the Mediterranean. Clemenceau and near the Port
Clamber down to pretty Plage Mala de Plaisance.
from Cap d’Ail. From there take the
coastal footpath east wards, passing 6 Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Villa “The Rock”, where actress Greta Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte
Garbo often came to spend a holiday, d’Azur; 06310
and Villa Capponcina, the mansion The sleepy Art Deco environs of
formerly owned by UK press baron Beaulieu-sur-Mer carry a regal air.
Lord Beaverbrook. Travellers can also Delve into the town’s history, and it
explore the coastal strip of Èze-sur- is apparent that its early 20th-century
Mer, home to U2 singer Bono. residents – royalty from Italy, Britain,
ª Head west out of Cap d’Ail on the Portugal, Belgium, Sweden and Russia
D6098. Take a quick sharp right for Éze – have all left their mark. Gustave Eiffel,
Above Narrow cobblestoned streets in the onto the D45, and then continue on the architect of the Eiffel Tower in Paris,
village of Èze Below Lovely Stone Garden at Moyenne Corniche (D6007) to Éze. lived here, as did Théodore Reinach,
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, Cap-Ferrat There is a car park at the foot of the creator of Villa Kerylos (open daily), a
town in Place du Général de Gaulle. replica 2nd-century BC Greek villa built
between 1902 and 1908. The town is
5 Èze also home to the Grand Casino where
Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte Winston Churchill gambled away
d’Azur; 06360 many an evening.
At 400 m (1,312 ft) above sea level, Eze ª Drive west along the seafront,
is the archetypal village perché (hilltop following directions for Cap-Ferrat on
village). A century ago, as Nietzsche the D125. Turn left at the Pont Saint-
climbed its steep path, Èze’s golden Jean intersection. Follow signs to Saint-
WHERE TO STAY cobblestones were familiar ground Jean and park in Place Clemenceau.
only to local donkeys, used to haul up
ÈZE
provisions. Between 1923 and 1953, 7 Cap-Ferrat
Cap Estel expensive Sweden’s Prince William and his family Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte
A luxurious celebrity-laden hideaway in wintered at what is now Château Eza.
the 1950s, this former Russian dacha d’Azur; 06230
was remodelled in 2004 and now Visit Le Jardin d’Èze (open daily) and Formerly the grazing grounds for local
attracts a similar, privacy-seeking crowd. Château Balsan, where director Alfred livestock, Cap-Ferrat is now one of the
1312 avenue Raymond Poincaré, 06360; Hitchcock shot his 1955 film To Catch a wealthiest spits of land in the world.
04 93 76 29 29; www.capestel.com; Thief, for views over Cap-Ferrat. During the early 20th century, King
closed Jan–Feb
ª Take the D46 north, then the Leopold II of Belgium purchased
CAPFERRAT Grande Corniche (D2564), following much of the Cap, from his private villa
Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat
expensive
One of the French Riviera’s most
renowned hotels, it was built in 1908
and has had a sympathetic overhaul
a century later.
71 boulevard du Général de Gaulle,
06230; 04 93 76 50 50; www.grand-
hotel-cap-ferrat.
com; closed Jan–mid-Mar
NICE
Hi-Hotel moderate
Totally organic, Hi-Hotel sports a
brand-new beach club. The rooftop
pool offers great views, and inter-
national DJs hit the club area on
weekend evenings.
3 avenue des Fleurs, 06000; 04 97 07 26
26; www.hi-hotel.net