Page 231 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 21: Gardens and Glamour 229

Iberia near Plage Passable to the
lighthouse at the southern tip.
Baroness Beatrice Ephrussi de
Rothschild designed Île-de-France,
her dream villa, in 1905. Now known
as Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (open
daily), it boasts nine themed gardens.
Since the 1950s, vacationing glitterati
have included Édith Piaf, Elizabeth
Taylor, Roger Moore, and recently, Bill
Clinton. Actors Charlie Chaplin and
later David Niven owned the villa Lo
Scoglietto, and British author
Somerset Maugham hosted the Marx
brothers and the Aga Khan at his
home, La Mauresque. Above left Seaside Villa Kerylos, Beaulieu-sur-
ª Drive back to the Pont Saint-Jean ª Retrace Avenue Sadi Carnot back Mer Above right Seafront promenade and
intersection and turn left onto the to the D6098. Turn left onto the restaurants, Villefranche-sur-Mer
D6098. At Carrefour de la Libération, D6098, also known as Boulevard
before the Jardin François Binon Princesse Grace de Monaco, for Nice.
(tourist office), take a sharp left onto Park in the port’s car park to the left, EAT AND DRINK
the Avenue Sadi Carnot. Head downhill or continue up Rue Cassini to the car
ÈZE
to the car park at Place Wilson. park on Avenue Félix Faure.
Château Eza expensive
8 Villefranche-sur-Mer 9 Nice Cuisine and stupendous views are best
enjoyed on the restaurant’s terrace.
Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte Rue de la Pise, 06360; 04 93 41 12 24;
d’Azur; 06230 d’Azur; 06000 www.chateaueza.com; closed Mon, Tue
Arrive in this miniature paradise and it Nice has been the French Riviera’s (low season), Nov & Dec
is hard to believe that Nice’s metro- most popular tourist destination for
BEAULIEUSURMER
polis is just 6 km (4 miles) away. The over a century (see also pp234–5).
African Queen moderate–expensive
town sits peace fully on the west side From artist Marc Chagall, who cele-
A celeb favourite, it is renowned for its
of a bay, flanked by Cap-Ferrat to the brated his 80th birth day party at the crispy pizzas, fresh fish and lobster.
east. Pastel buildings cluster along the Palais de la Méditerranée in 1967 to Port de Plaisance, 06310; 04 93 01 10 85
waterfront, nestling between a 16th- film stars Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie
VILLEFRANCHESURMER
century citadel and the town’s golden whose twins were born here at the
Cosmo inexpensive–moderate
sweep of beach. Nearby, the Rolling Lenval Hospital in 2008, illustrious
Contemporary French cuisine is served
Stones recorded Exile on Main Street at visitors fill the city year-round. Get a
on a patio overlooking the bay.
Villa Nellcote, where guitarist Keith sense of the local action at the Cours 11 place Amélie Pollonais, 06230;
Richards played host at some of the Saleya’s markets, or order a café 04 93 01 84 05
Riviera’s wildest parties. Visit Chapelle crème at one of the old town’s pave- NICE
Saint-Pierre (opening time varies), its ment cafés. Head up to the Parc du Castel Plage moderate–expensive
façade and interior vividly decorated Château (open daily) for views over
This is the town’s best beachside bar.
with Jean Cocteau’s murals of St Peter, the Promenade des Anglais and the 8 quai des États-Unis, 06000; 04 93 85
patron saint of fishermen. Cap d’Antibes beyond. 22 66; closed mid-Sep–mid-Mar
DAYTRIP OPTIONS higher. Spend the afternoon Coastal walk
Although the main roads between exploring pretty Roquebrune-Cap- Drive to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat or
Menton and Nice can be busy Martin 2, then head over to the park the car in Beaulieu-sur-Mer 6
during high season, if visitors opt for and take a walk along the well-
Riviera’s favourite perched village,
the heights of the Moyenne (D6007) signposted rocky coastal path at
Éze 5. Outdoor enthusiasts can
or Grande Corniches (D2564), they Cap-Ferrat 7. Finish at the beach
descend to Eze’s beach, Éze-sur-Mer,
can cover the distance between at Villefranche-sur-Mer 8.
both ends of the drive with ease. by hiking along the Nietzsche Path
(approximately an hour’s trek). D6098 connects Beaulieu-sur-Mer and
Panoramic pleasures Villefranche-sur-Mer along the base of
For cooler breezes and sweeping Take D2564 east from Roquebrune- Cap-Ferrat, and can be easily accessed
vistas, head to the hills. The quiet Cap-Martin. Turn left onto D46, which from any of the stops along this driving
Grande Corniche (D2564) leaves the heads downhill to Eze. D6007 will lead tour. Parking is available by Beaulieu-
crowded seaside, as it climbs ever back to Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. sur-Mer’s casino.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40