Page 24 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

22 BACK ROADS FRANCE

Where to Stay

The accommodation in this guide has been specially selected to
reflect the undiscovered France. On the back roads you will find
charming, family-run chambres d’hôtes, offering comfortable rooms
in anything from cottage to château; small, welcoming hotels
where the patron cooks local specialities and whose little bar is
the focus of village life; and rare delights like luxury camp sites, set
amid vines or under shady pines by the lapping Mediterranean. Above Hotel in Dabo in the
region of Lorraine

Chambres d’Hôtes registered and inspected by Gîtes de Chambres d’hôtes are also offered by
These are the French equivalent France. Their reliable grading system Clévances, including some in towns.
of bed-and-breakfast – and yet is in “ears of wheat” (épis): one signifies Interesting features of their range
somehow so much more than the basic rooms; two means comfortable include chambres d’hôtes de Bacchus,
term implies. They come in all shapes rooms, at least one with private on vineyards, and the “Offbeat”
and sizes, from tiny cottages and shower or bath; three guarantees selection, which includes a house-
rustic farmhouses to historic well-appointed rooms, each with boat in Paris and Mongolian yurts
châteaux and manor houses. Once its own private bathroom; and four (tents) on the banks of the Loire.
offering very simple accommodation, means luxury rooms or suites, each Their grading system is from one
and seen as the budget option, they with its own private, fully-fitted to four keys (clés). Fleurs de Soleil
now offer a chance to experience bathroom, housed in a residence offers only chambres d’hôtes de
real French hospitality and local of character, in a beautiful setting. charme, in both the countryside and
flavour, often with stylish or country- To be sure of an exceptional towns. Both Clévances and Gîtes de
chic decor, en-suite facilities, Internet experience, it is worth seeking out France have a huge range of self-
access and other comforts, yet at a a chambre d’hôte de charme; 750 of catering accommodation as well,
very reasonable price. Breakfast is, of those listed by Gîtes de France fall which can often be rented for a
course, included in the room price into this “charming” category. To weekend, especially out of season.
and may well include local produce qualify, the establishment must merit
and home-made preserves. Many at least three épis, be in a building Hotels
offer dinner – table d’hôte – on noted for its architecture or setting, Almost every French town and
advance request. Your host will almost and be in a peaceful environment village has a small, welcoming,
certainly serve local food and wine away from road or other noise. It family-run hotel, often with its own
specialities, but there is unlikely to be must offer warm and attentive ser- restaurant or bar. The annual Logis
a choice of menu. If you have dietary vice, and its owners are expected to de France guide and website details
requirements you are advised to notify have exten sive knowledge of their over 4,000 of the best, which have to
the owners in advance. region and its places of interest. Of meet its standards of accommoda tion
For most owners the chambres these supe rior establishments, 100 and cuisine. Although independently
d’hôtes are as much a labour of love are classed as gîtes de châteaux, set in run, they are inspected regularly and
as a business. In all cases, due to the castles, manors, former monaster ies awarded one, two or three “fireplace”
small, family-run nature of these and similar, often with lavish suites symbols according to standard.
enterprises, you should reserve well and always furnished in luxury style. Menus often feature a menu de
in advance, online or by phone. Over Set in idyllic grounds, many offer faci- terroir, a set meal of local dishes at a
25,000 of these establishments are lities such as a pool or horseriding. bargain price, to encourage you to