Page 131 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Milan & The Lakes
P. 131

T WO   GUIDED  W ALKS      129


       church hiding behind an insipid         basin at the confluence of
       19th-century façade. Beyond             the underground Olona River
       the main church and behind              and two canals.
       the altar lies the Cappella               The canal closest to the square
       Portinari, a masterpiece of             is the Naviglio Pavese y, running
       early Renaissance architecture          33 km (20.5 miles) south to the
       gorgeously frescoed with                Ticino River, near Pavia. Once
       the story of St Peter Martyr by         the busiest canal in the entire
       Vincenzo Foppa. The church              system, since 1978 it has served
       houses a vast marble arch               as a very long irrigation ditch.
       carved in the 1330s.  e The façade of Sant’Eustorgio hides a     To the southwest of the
                           4th-century church   Darsena is the Naviglio Grande
       Along the Navigli                       u (see p91), a 50-km (31-mile)
       One more road south, past    Neo-Classical pile dates from   waterway connecting Milan to
       the confusingly named Porta   1801–14), and you are in the   the Ticino since 1177. This now
       Ticinese r (unlike its medieval   Piazza XXIV Maggio. This marks   merely irrigates fields south
       namesake up the street, this   the intersection of the last   of the city. Walk along its far


                        PIAZZA  Stazione        VIA GADIO
                        VIRGILIO
     VIA   ZENALE  4  VIA CARADOSSO  Milano Cadorna VIA PALEOCAPA
                          VIA VINCENZO MONTI  PIAZZALE  Cadorna
                                CADORNA
                 CORSO MAGENTA
           VIA    DE    TOGNI                P I A Z Z A             C A S T E L LO
  6                        VIA CARDUCCI           1
        VIA   DE   GRASSI
            V I A           C A R D U C C I   V. TERRAGGIO   VIA ILLICA
   VIA S. VITTORE
                                2
                                      F O R O   B U O N A PA R T E
  S. Ambrogio  PIAZZA  VIA S. AGNESE  C ORSO          MAGENTA  Cairoli
       5    S. AMBROGIO       3                  LARGO
                             VIA LUINI
          7               VIA NIRONE  V. SAN GIOVANNI S. MURO CAIROLI
                   VIA SANTA VALERIA
                  VIA NECCHI         VIA MERAVIGLI  embankment (Alzaia Naviglio
       VIA L ANZONE
            VIA S. PIO V   Key Walk route      Grande) to the blind alley of
                                               Vicolo dei Lavandai i, down

                                               which is a pretty miniature
                                               canal of stone wash basins
                           significant remnant of Milan’s   covered by a tiled roof.
     VIA    EDMONDO    DE    AMICIS
                           once-vast system of navigli     The Navigli has blossomed
       VIA CAMINADELLA
 CORSO    GENOVA  PIAZZA   (canals). The system was    into Milan’s trendiest bar and
  RESISTENZA
  PARTIGIANA  8            begun in the 12th century and   restaurant zone, packed with
         V I A   C .   C O R R E N T I
 VIA C.      SIMONETTA  VIA M. D’OGGIONO  VIA G. G. MORA   expanded under Lodovico il   wine bars, trattorias, pizzerias
                                               and jazz clubs and is the pefect
                           Moro, who turned to Leonardo
 VIA          ALESSI VIA CONCA DEL NAVIGLIO   for help with the plans. At    place for a post-walk drink or
 VIA G. FERRARI
 VIALE  D’ANNUNZIO   w  0  9  8,300 boats hauled 350,000 tons
                                               lunch. Porta Genova metro
                           its late 19th-century peak,
 Porta Genova  VIALE GORIZIA    VIA           RONZONI   q  V.PIO IV  the system included 150 km    station is a short stroll from here.
 CORSO  DI         PORTA   TICINESE
 250m (230 Yards)          (93 miles) of canals along which
 i  D a r s e n a    V I A           A R E N A    of merchandise a year, making
                           Milan the 13th-busiest port in
 Naviglio Grande
                           locked city. The canals’ import-
 RIPA DI PORTA TICENESE
 u  PARCO  VIA  MOLINO  D.  ARMI  Italy – impressive for a land-
    DELLE                  ance faded with the rise of the
 t  BASILICHE              rail ways, and from the 1930s
 y                         they were slowly filled in.
 PZA.e
 r  SANT’EUSTORGIO  VIA S. CROCE   West of Piazza XXIV Maggio
 PIAZZA    0 metres    300  stretches the main “port”, the
 XXIV
 MAGGIO  VIA SAMBUCO
           0 yards    300  1603 Darsena t, an artificial   i The pretty Vicolo dei Lavandai
                                                  Harbour at Menaggio, Lake Como
   128-129_EW_Milan.indd   129                               20/10/16   3:20 pm
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