Page 201 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 201

rose window in the apse
       represents the Glorification
       of the Church. Protruding
       from the cathe dral’s western
       towers are statues paying
       tribute to the oxen that were
       used to haul up stone for
        its construction.
         The rest of medieval Laon
       rewards casual strolling: a
       promenade rings the 16th-
       century Citadelle further east,
       while to the south you can
       follow the ramparts past the
       Porte d’Ardon and Porte des
       Chenizelles to Eglise St-Martin.
       South of Laon is Chemin des
       Dames, named after Louis
       XV’s daughters, who used to
       take this route; it is more often
       remembered as a World War I
       battlefield and is lined with
       cemeteries and memorials.

       y
       Chantilly
       ! D2   ⌂ Oise   £ @   n 73 rue
       du Connétable; www.
       chantilly-tourisme.com
                           last private owner, the Duke of   Musée Condé, the art
       The horse-racing capital of   Aumale. These include work   gallery of Chantilly, one
       France, Chantilly offers a classy   by Raphael, Botticelli, Poussin   of the largest in France
       combination of château, park   and Ingres. Among the most
       and forest that has long made   precious items is the famous
       it a popular excursion.   15th-century illu minated   Musée du Cheval
         With origins in Gallo-Roman  manuscript Les Très Riches   "   ⌂ Grandes Ecuries du
       times, the château of today   Heures du Duc de Berry, repro-  Prince de Condé, Chantilly
       started to take shape in 1528,   ductions of which are on view.   # Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
       when Anne de Montmorency,   You can also tour the opulent   Nov–Mar: 10:30am–7pm
       Constable of France, had the   stately apartments.  Wed–Mon; park to 8pm
       old fortress replaced and the     Both châteaux are upstaged   ∑ domainedechantilly.com
       Petit Château added. During   by the magnificent stables
       the time of the Great Prince of   (Grandes Ecuries), an eques-
       Condé (1621–86), renovation   trian palace designed by Jean   CHANTILLY RACES
       work continued and André     Aubert in 1719 to house 240   Chantilly is a shrine to
       Le Nôtre created a park and   horses and 500 dogs. It is   the love affair between
       fountains that made even   occupied by the Musée du   the French upper classes
       Louis XIV jealous. Destroyed    Cheval. Devoted to equine art   and equestrian sport.
       in the Revolution, the Grand   and culture, it also presents   It held its first official
       Château was again rebuilt    various breeds of horses and   race in 1834, and today
       and its receptions and hunting   ponies, riding displays and spe-  some 2,000  horses are
       parties became crowded by   cial events related to horses.  trained in the surroun­
       the fashionable high society              ding forests. Every
       of the 1820s and 1830s. It     Musée Condé  June, the Chantilly
       was finally replaced by a   "'\   ⌂ Château de   racetrack becomes the
       Renaissance-style château    Chantilly   § 03 44 27 31 80     focus of the flat racing
       in the late 19th century.  # Museum: Apr–Oct: 10am–  season, when top riders
         Today the Grand Château   6pm daily, Nov–Mar: 10:30am–   and their thoroughbreds
       and the Petit Château form   5pm Wed–Mon; park: Apr–   compete for presti gious
       the Musée Condé, displaying   Oct: 10am–8pm, Nov–Mar:   historic trophies.
       art treasures collected by its   10:30am–6pm   ¢ Jan
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