Page 212 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
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6                   Musée du Cloître de Notre-  TOP  TOP FIVE
                            Dame-en-Vaux
        Châlons-en-         "'   ⌂ Rue Nicolas Durand     5  CHAMPAGNE
        Champagne           § 03 26 69 38 53   #  10am–  HOUSES
                            12pm & 2–6pm Wed–Mon   ¢ 1
        ! E2   ⌂ Marne   £ @      Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec    Moët et Chandon
        n 3 quai des Arts; www.                   Offers some of Epernay’s
        chalons-tourisme.com  7                   most elegant and
                                                  impressive cellar tours
        Encircled by the River Marne
      EXPERIENCE  Champagne  has a sleepy bourgeois charm   Argonne   Mumm
                                                  (www.moet.com).
        and minor canals, Châlons
        thanks to its half-timbered
                            ! F2   ⌂ Ardennes &
                                                  Not far from the centre
        houses and gardens mirrored
                            Meuse   @ Châlons   £ Ste-
                                                  of Reims, informative
        in canals. Nearby are vine-
                            Menehould   n 6 pl du la
                                                  tours take you deep into
        yards producing Blanc de
                            République, Clermont en
                                                  chalk cellars (www.
        Blancs (Champagne made
                            Argonne; www.tourisme-
                                                  mumm.com).
        only from Chardonnay grapes).
          From quai de Notre-Dame
                            East of Reims, the Argonne
        there are views of old bridges
                                                  From an entrance hall in
                            is full of picturesque valleys
        and the Romanesque towers   argonne.com   Pommery
                                                  Reims, 101 steps lead
        of Notre-Dame-en-Vaux, a   and forests, dotted with   down to Gallo-Roman
        masterpiece of Romanesque   priories, trenches and war   cellars, decorated with
        Gothic. Behind the church is     cemeteries. As a wooded   art (www.champagne-
        a well-restored medieval   border between the rival   pommery.com).
        quarter and the Musée du   bishoprics of Lorraine and
        Cloître de Notre-Dame-en-  Champagne, the Argonne was   Joseph Perrier
        Vaux, containing the orig inal   home to abbeys and priories.   Based in Châlons-en-
        Romanesque cloisters.  Now a ruin, the abbey of   Champagne, this family
          Cathédrale St-Etienne is a   Beaulieu-en-Argonne boasts   house has 3 km of chalk
        Gothic affair with a Baroque   a 13th-cen tury wine press and   caves to explore (www.
        portal, Romanesque crypt   has forest views. Just north is   josephperrier.com).
        and medi eval windows.   Les Islettes, known for its
        Beyond is Le Petit Jard, river-  faïence pottery. The hilly ter-  Tattinger
        side gar dens over looking the   rain here was a battleground   Cellar tours in Reims
        Château du Marché, and    during the Franco-Prussian   take you to Gallo-Roman
        a tollgate built by   War and World War I. The dis-  quarries and a 13th-
        Henri IV. River tours   puted territory of Butte de   century abbey (www.
        are available from   Vauquois, north of Les Islettes,   taittinger.com).
        the tourist office.  bears a war memorial.
                                                8
                                                L’Epine
                                                ! E2   ⌂ Marne   £ Châlons
                                                @   n 3 quai des Arts,
                                                Châlons en Champagne;
                                                03 26 65 17 89
                                                Surrounded by idyllic rural
                                                scenes and rolling country side,
                                                L’Epine is worth visiting if only
                                                for a glimpse of the Basilique
                                                de Notre-Dame de l’Epine,
                                                surrounded by wheat fields.
                                                Designed on the scale of a
                                                cathedral, this 15th-century
                                                Flamboyant Gothic church has
                                                been a pilgrimage site since
                                                medieval times. Even French
                         Gothic Cathédrale St-Etienne,   kings have come here to vene-
                         sitting alongside the canal at   rate a “miraculous” statue of
                         Châlons-en-Champagne   the Virgin. On the façade, three
    212
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