Page 213 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 213

Cafés spilling out on the   9         mystical powers. Virtually the
         cobbles at the centre                 whole town is enclosed by well­
         of pretty Langres  Langres            preserved medieval ram parts,
                                               undoubtedly Langres’s best­
                           ! F3   ⌂ Haute-Marne
                           £ @   n Square Olivier   known attraction. A succes­
       gabled portals are offset    Lahalle; www.tourisme-  sion of towers and parapets
       by floating tracery, a gauzy    langres.com  provide glimpses of the roman­
       effect remini scent of Reims            tic town gates and sculpted
       Cathedral. All around are gar­  Set on a rocky spur, Langres   Renaissance mansions, with
       goyles, symbolizing evil spirits   lies beyond Chaumont, in    panoramic views of the Marne
       and deadly sins, chased out     the backwaters of southern   Valley, the Langres plateau,
       by the holy presence within.   Champagne. This ancient   the Vosges and, on a clear
       Unfortunately, the most   bishopric was one of the gate­  day, even Mont Blanc.
       risqué sculptures were   ways to Burgundy and the     Near Porte Henri IV is the
       destroyed, judged obscene    birthplace of the encyclopedist   much­remodelled Cathédrale
       by 19th­century puritans.    Denis Diderot (1713–84).   St­Mammès. In Burgundian
       The subdued Gothic interior   Langres promotes itself as a   Romanesque style, the
       contains a 15th­century rood   land of springs, claiming that   gloomy vaulted interior is
       screen and the venerated   its proximity to the sources of   redeemed by the sculpted
       statue of the Virgin.   the Seine and Marne grant it   capitals in the apse, reputedly
                                               taken from a temple of Jupiter.
                                               The town’s Musée d’Art et
         CHAMPAGNE TIMBER                      d’Histoire presents archae­
         CHURCHES                              ological finds from the region,
         An hour south of                      and has some inter esting
         L’Epine lies a region                 collections of paintings,
         of woodland and water                 engrav ings and sculpture.
         meadows, containing                     Langres’s lively summer
         12 Romanesque and                     season includes historical
         Renaissance half-                     re­enactments, theatre
         timbered churches with                and firework displays. Its
         curious pointed gables                nearby lakes, Lac de Charmes
         and caquetoirs, rickety               and Lac de la Vingeanne, offer
         wooden porches. Set in                excellent opportunities for
         rural spots, they feature             fishing and birdwatching.
         intimate and often
         beautifully carved                    Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
         interiors with stained-               "   ⌂ Pl du Centenaire 52
         glass windows designed                # Apr–Sep: 9am–noon & 1:30–
         in the vivid colours of    The 16th-century timber   6:30pm; Oct–Mar: 1:30–
         the School of Troyes.   church at Bailly-le-Franc  5:30pm   ¢ 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov,
                                               25 Dec   ∑ musees-langres.fr
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