Page 407 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 407

PILGRIMAGE THROUGH
       POITOU AND AQUITAINE                   CODEX CALIXTINUS
       There are four main routes across Europe that    Possibly the world’s
       pilgrims took to get to Compostela. The Way of Tours    first tourist guidebook,
       is the westernmost route; stretching from Paris to    the five-volume Codex
       Compostela, it snakes through Poitou and Aquitaine   Calixtinus was written
       and picks up with the other three routes (the Way of    by a French monk in the
       St James) in the Pyrenees. In the medieval ages, pilgrims   12th century. Its inten-
       would have travelled along well-trodden paths to join   tion was to provide
       the Way, as well as deviating from the main route to   inform ation and advice
       visit and pay homage to hermitages, shrines and relics   for pilgrims following
       as they went. In Poitou and Aquitaine, east of the Way,   the Way of St James.
       the abbey church of St-Savin (p405) was a popular   The illustrated guide
       diversion, for its extraordinarily rich narrative frescoes,   features routes and
       which relay the history of the Old Testament, from the   sights to see along the
       Creation to the Ten Commandments.      Way, as well as the
         Pilgrims journeying from the west would have   history of St James, a
       passed through 13th-century Porte St-Jacques, one of   letter by Pope Callixtus
       the four city gates of Parthenay (p402), and along rue   and reports on miracles.
       de la Vau St-Jacques, a narrow cobblestone street that
       climbs up to the centre of town, to rest before carrying
       on to Poitier (p398) to join the procession. Many pilgrims
       would have stayed in 13th-century Notre-Dame-la-
       Grande, the white jewel of Poitiers, with an
       incredibly intricate Romanesque façade, before
       heading south to Saintes to cross a Roman
       bridge, at the time the only bridge to cross the
       lower Charente river.































                                              Hiking through the
                                              vineyards of Poitou, en
                                              route to Poitiers’ Notre-
                                              Dame-la-Grande (inset)


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