Page 408 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 408

century, when the Council of   bustling arrival point for
                            Charroux declared the “Truce   transatlantic steamships in
                            of God”, the earliest-known   the 19th century. Today, this
                            attempt to regulate war in the   now sleepy port is mostly
                            manner of the Geneva conven-  used by plea sure boats.
                            tion. A huge tower marks what     The commune of Pauillac is
                            was once the centre of the   also one of the most famous
                            church, and some superb   areas in the Médoc wine region;
                            sculpture from the original   three of its châteaux are Médoc
                            abbey portal can be seen in   premiers grands crus classés.
                            the small museum.   Château Mouton Rothschild
                                                uses leading artists to create
                                                its wine labels and has a small
                            16                  museum of paint ings on wine
                                                themes from all over the world.
                            Confolens           The Château Lafite Rothschild
                                                is of medieval origin and the
                            ! C4   ⌂ Charente   @
                            n 8 rue Fontaine des   Château Latour is recognizable
                            Jardins; www.mairie-  by its distinc tive stone turret.
                            confolens.fr        They can be visited by appoint-
          Ascending angels around               ment (contact the tourist office
          the cherry­red door to   On the border with Limousin,   well in advance).
          Église St­Pierre at Aulnay  Confolens, once an impor tant
                            frontier town, now suffers from
                            rural exodus. Efforts to make   18
        14                  the town more attractive   La Rochelle
                            include the annual folklore
        Aulnay de Saintonge   festival, held in August.
                              The medieval bridge that   ! B4   ⌂ Charente-Maritime
        ! C4   ⌂ Charente-Maritime              ~ £ @   n 2 quai Georges
        n 290 av de l’Église; www.  runs across the River Vienne   Simenon, Le Gabut; www.
        saintongedoree-tourisme.  was heavily restored in the   larochelle-tourisme.com
        com                 early 18th century.
                                                La Rochelle, a commercial
        Perhaps the most unusual fact           centre and busy port since
        about the lovely 12th-century   17      the 11th century, has suffered
        Église St-Pierre at Aulnay is that      much from a distressing ten-
        it was all built at once; there is   Pauillac  dency to back the wrong side –
        no ill-fitting apse or transept   ! C5   ⌂ Gironde   £ @      the English and the Calvin ists,
        added to an original nave. The   nLa Verrerie; www.  for example. This led to the
        church is covered in glorious   pauillac-medoc.com  ruthless siege of the city by
        sculpture, particularly the out-        Cardinal Richelieu in 1628,
        side of the south tran sept. It is   Situated on the west bank of   during which 23,000 people
        a rare example of a complete   the Gironde, this town was the
        Romanesque façade, with rank
        on rank of raucous monsters
        and graceful human figures.   HIDDEN GEM
        Note the donkey with a harp.   Coriobona
                              Just east of Confolens
                              is Coriobona, a recon­
        15                    structed Gallic village
                              with thatched­roof
        Charroux              houses. Here, actors in
                              period clothing prac­
        ! E4   ⌂ Vienne   n 2 rte de   ticing various crafts
        Chatain; www.civraisien   such as weaving,
        charlois.com          forging and pottery.
        The 8th-century Abbaye
        St-Sauveur in Charroux was
        once one of the richest abbeys
        in the region. Today it is a ruin
        (go to the tourist office to visit).   Yachts moored in the
        Its chief contribution to his-  peaceful harbour at
        tory was made in the 10th   La Rochelle, after sunset
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