Page 529 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 529

of the port. A formidable fort-
                           ress, constructed in 1529 to
                           house artillery, it later became   300
                           a prison, made famous by
                           Alexandre Dumas’s novel The
                           Count of Monte Cristo.  The average number
                             Completed in 1864, the   of days of sunshine
                           Neo-Byzantine Basilique de   that Marseille gets
                           Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde    per year.
                           dominates the city, its 46-m-
                           (151-ft-) high belfry capped by
                           a huge gilded statue of the
                           Virgin. Abbaye de St-Victor was   specifically the Mediter ranean
                           rebuilt in the 11th century and   region with over 500,000
                           has an intriguing crypt, with an   ethno graphical items, plus
                           original catacomb chapel and   art and books.
                           pagan and Christian tombs.
                           Annually, on 2 February, this   Musée des Beaux-Arts
                           becomes a place of pilgrimage   "   ⌂ Palais Longchamp, pl
                           celebrating the legendary   Aile Gauche (left wing)
                           arrival of St Mary Magdalene,   § 04 91 14 59 30   # 9:30am–
                           Lazarus and St Martha nearly   6:30pm Tue–Sun   ¢ 1 Jan, 1
                           2,000 years ago.    May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 & 26 Dec
                             In 1640, construction of a
                           shelter “for the poor and beg-  Château d’If
                           gars” of Marseille was begun   "'-=   ⌂ Vieux Port
                           by royal decree. A hundred   # Jan–Mar & Oct–Dec: 10am–
                           years later, Pierre Puget’s La   5pm Tue–Sun; Apr–Sep: 10am–
                           Vieille Charité hospital and   6pm daily   ∑ chateau-if.fr
         The mosaic-paved parvis   church opened. The restored
         in front of the Basilica-St-  building houses the Musée   La Vieille Charité
         Michel in Menton  d’Archéo logie Méditerrané-  "\   ⌂ 2 rue de la Charité
                           enne; the Musée des Arts   # Hours vary, check
                           Africains, Océaniens et Amér-  website   ∑ vieille-
       was seized by the Romans in   indiens (MAAOA) is on the   charite-marseille.com
       49 BC. It became the “Gateway  second floor.
       to the West” for most Oriental     Linking Marseille’s harbour,   Musée des Civilisations
       trade. France’s largest port   a former port terminal and   de l’Europe et de la
       and lively second-largest city   the 17th-century Fort St-Jean,   Méditerranée (MuCEM)
       has close links with the Middle   the fascinating Musée des   "\=   ⌂ 1 esplanade de J4,
       East and North Africa. It was a   Civilisations de l’Europe et   201 quai du Port (VJ4 and
       European Capital of Culture in   de la Méditerranée (MuCEM)   Fort Saint-Jean)   # Hours
       2013, and has renovated its   focuses on the enthralling   vary, check website
       old harbour and port terminal.  history of civilization in Europe,   ∑ mucem.org
         Marseille has excellent
       museums, including several
       in the old harbour area. The   JEAN COCTEAU
       Musée Cantini, to the south, is   Born near Paris in 1889, Cocteau spent
       one of the best and houses   much of his very public life around the
       the 20th-century art collec-  Côte d’Azur. A man of powerful intellect
       tion of sculp tor Jules Cantini.   and great élan, he became a member
         The Musée des Beaux-Arts   of the Académie Française in 1955.
       is in the handsome 19th-  Among other talents, Cocteau
       century Palais Longchamp.   was a dramatist (La Machine
       Works include Michel Serre’s   Infernale, 1934); the writer of
       graphic views of Marseille’s   Les Enfants Terribles (1929);
       plague of 1721, Pierre Puget’s   and a surrealist film director.
       town plans for the city and   Orphée (1950) was partly
       murals depicting it in Greek   shot against the barren
       and Roman times.      landscape at Les Baux (p517).
         The Château d’If (Castle of   He died before his museum
       Yew) stands on a tiny island    opened in 1967.
       2 km (1 mile) to the southwest
                                                                  529



   528-529_EW_France.indd   529                              30/01/2019   16:45
   524   525   526   527   528   529   530   531   532   533   534